54LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
03-09-2017, 12:23 AM - Wikipost
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03-17-2016, 08:50 AM
I have another one for you Associated guys....
I switched over to the aluminum hub. What position do I run and what washer do I run to get the same camber link height and position that I had before? I ran the stock hub with the 3 hole setup, with the holes up. I found plastic washers in the materials left over from the build and put enough under the ball stud to keep it from getting into the bearing... but I can tell the camber link isn't the same. I would like to run an aluminum washer that will put everything to as close as that stock position as possible.
Also.. does anyone know of a part number I can order to get the 3mm flat head screws needed to mount the wing on the JC wing mount?
I switched over to the aluminum hub. What position do I run and what washer do I run to get the same camber link height and position that I had before? I ran the stock hub with the 3 hole setup, with the holes up. I found plastic washers in the materials left over from the build and put enough under the ball stud to keep it from getting into the bearing... but I can tell the camber link isn't the same. I would like to run an aluminum washer that will put everything to as close as that stock position as possible.
Also.. does anyone know of a part number I can order to get the 3mm flat head screws needed to mount the wing on the JC wing mount?
As for the screw... Try a local hardware store first.. I'm sure you could find the screw for like 10 - 15 cents. If you order an "AE" official screw set it'll probably come with like 5 for 3-4 bucks. Just my .02 on that.
03-17-2016, 08:58 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I modified the stock wing mount to accept screws. I found 3mm screws and washers at my local Ace Hardware. They had a pretty good assortment. Here's what I did with my wing:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post14405944
03-17-2016, 10:27 AM
Tech Initiate
re. turnbuckles - do they inevitably get scratched up over time from adjustments? or is there a certain method or tool to mitigate that? all the turnbuckle wrenches I've seen are some sort of alloy so I bet it would easily take off the anodized paint.
03-17-2016, 11:01 AM
I have another one for you Associated guys....
I switched over to the aluminum hub. What position do I run and what washer do I run to get the same camber link height and position that I had before? I ran the stock hub with the 3 hole setup, with the holes up. I found plastic washers in the materials left over from the build and put enough under the ball stud to keep it from getting into the bearing... but I can tell the camber link isn't the same. I would like to run an aluminum washer that will put everything to as close as that stock position as possible.
Also.. does anyone know of a part number I can order to get the 3mm flat head screws needed to mount the wing on the JC wing mount?
I switched over to the aluminum hub. What position do I run and what washer do I run to get the same camber link height and position that I had before? I ran the stock hub with the 3 hole setup, with the holes up. I found plastic washers in the materials left over from the build and put enough under the ball stud to keep it from getting into the bearing... but I can tell the camber link isn't the same. I would like to run an aluminum washer that will put everything to as close as that stock position as possible.
Also.. does anyone know of a part number I can order to get the 3mm flat head screws needed to mount the wing on the JC wing mount?
For the JC wing mounts you'll want 3x6mm screws. Get some from either AE or the hardware store if you can.
03-17-2016, 12:23 PM
For the aluminum hubs you want the etched "0" facing the rear of the car. You'll want to use the back row inside hole to match the hole you were using previously. You'll need the 8mm ballstud with 3mm of washers to attain the correct height. Use part number: 4617 for the washers, they are larger in size and give the ball stud more support. Be sure to loctite the ballstud!!
For the JC wing mounts you'll want 3x6mm screws. Get some from either AE or the hardware store if you can.
For the JC wing mounts you'll want 3x6mm screws. Get some from either AE or the hardware store if you can.
03-17-2016, 01:21 PM
Does anyone run a slipper eliminator? What are the advantages?
03-17-2016, 03:27 PM
I run a slipper eliminator with my stock buggy on indoor high bite clay. The advantage is less rotating mass and I suppose a very minor reduction in maintenance from not having to deal with slipper pads. I did feel a subtle increase in snap coming out of corners with it. New tires would net me a bigger improvement in lap times, lol
03-17-2016, 04:45 PM
Tech Regular
Slipper eliminators can make u faster in extremely high bite surfaces but that's only if you have the skill to use them properly because they have no give like a slipper would so it really depends on how good of a driver u are
03-17-2016, 07:28 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
Thank you! there are just so many steps along the building process that can bring out the inner OCD. I know I had plenty of those moments.
And I agree that soldering will take more practice. I learned it by fixing a horrible job my LHS did for me on another chassis (bad joints, burn marks on the motor and surrounding plastics) and was looking forward to apply that knowledge towards a clean slate, so here we are. For everything else like the wire bundling and parts selection, I was just trying to emulate what I read and saw from knowledgeable folks like yourself.
Here's a rough break-down, and welcome (more like curious) to hear any feedback. Maybe there isn't much to say.
Question - Is the little Teflon diff cover inside the outdrive recommended? Mine seems to not want to slide in unless I use a lot of force, and I'm worried that it will be difficult to retrieif I ever wanted to take it out.
And I agree that soldering will take more practice. I learned it by fixing a horrible job my LHS did for me on another chassis (bad joints, burn marks on the motor and surrounding plastics) and was looking forward to apply that knowledge towards a clean slate, so here we are. For everything else like the wire bundling and parts selection, I was just trying to emulate what I read and saw from knowledgeable folks like yourself.
Here's a rough break-down, and welcome (more like curious) to hear any feedback. Maybe there isn't much to say.
- B5M Factory Lite
- Reedy 800Z Blackbox ESC + Sonic 540 M3 17.5T System
- Airtronics RX-461 FH4T & MT-4 TX
- 69T spur, 31T pinion (Robinson racing), as per the factory recommendation
- 32wt shock fluid in front and back, as per the factory recommendation
- Reedy 2s 5200 mah 50C saddle pack
- Jconcepts bar codes on AE wheels (blue, F/R)
Question - Is the little Teflon diff cover inside the outdrive recommended? Mine seems to not want to slide in unless I use a lot of force, and I'm worried that it will be difficult to retrieif I ever wanted to take it out.
Stock setup is the best place to start and then as you make upgrades slight changes from there based on what you are feeling. The best thing to do it talk with others at your local track, there's no one better than others who have a ton of experience locally.
My local hobby shop is also always willing to help, give tips, even between and after races he is always willing to help me out with some tips.
The Teflon cover, you mean that plastic nut with the ears? You may be able to trim it a little so that you can easily insert and remove it.
Good luck and be sure to post up your opinions on your electronics and the kit. There are great people on here willing to help.
03-17-2016, 07:52 PM
That OCD will get you every time! I hear great things about the black box, if I didn't love my Orion and Tekin I would have spent the money on it. Also I know many people here are happy with the M3.
Stock setup is the best place to start and then as you make upgrades slight changes from there based on what you are feeling. The best thing to do it talk with others at your local track, there's no one better than others who have a ton of experience locally.
My local hobby shop is also always willing to help, give tips, even between and after races he is always willing to help me out with some tips.
The Teflon cover, you mean that plastic nut with the ears? You may be able to trim it a little so that you can easily insert and remove it.
Good luck and be sure to post up your opinions on your electronics and the kit. There are great people on here willing to help.
Stock setup is the best place to start and then as you make upgrades slight changes from there based on what you are feeling. The best thing to do it talk with others at your local track, there's no one better than others who have a ton of experience locally.
My local hobby shop is also always willing to help, give tips, even between and after races he is always willing to help me out with some tips.
The Teflon cover, you mean that plastic nut with the ears? You may be able to trim it a little so that you can easily insert and remove it.
Good luck and be sure to post up your opinions on your electronics and the kit. There are great people on here willing to help.
03-17-2016, 08:28 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
True, I run on carpet myself. I am always making sure everything is in good condition and clean.
03-18-2016, 01:12 PM
03-18-2016, 01:31 PM
Is there any reason to get anything better (or just more expensive) than a Hobbywing justoc for 17.5 raving? I don't plan on doing anything other than 17.5 ever and a friend of mine needs an esc. I could always give him mine and upgrade if there is a reason. Or just have him buy a justoc.
03-18-2016, 02:59 PM
Is there any reason to get anything better (or just more expensive) than a Hobbywing justoc for 17.5 raving? I don't plan on doing anything other than 17.5 ever and a friend of mine needs an esc. I could always give him mine and upgrade if there is a reason. Or just have him buy a justoc.
