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Old 03-17-2016, 05:04 AM   #19051
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Looking good and welcome back to the hobby! Great job soldering, the more you do it the better and easier it gets. Nice job bundling up the wires and keeping it clean too.

Body painting is something that I used to do but I just don't have the patience anymore for it. I found Diggity Designs and he does an awesome job for $35, worth every penny!! I just keep the single paint color body for messing around.
Thank you! there are just so many steps along the building process that can bring out the inner OCD. I know I had plenty of those moments.

And I agree that soldering will take more practice. I learned it by fixing a horrible job my LHS did for me on another chassis (bad joints, burn marks on the motor and surrounding plastics) and was looking forward to apply that knowledge towards a clean slate, so here we are. For everything else like the wire bundling and parts selection, I was just trying to emulate what I read and saw from knowledgeable folks like yourself.

Here's a rough break-down, and welcome (more like curious) to hear any feedback. Maybe there isn't much to say.
  • B5M Factory Lite
  • Reedy 800Z Blackbox ESC + Sonic 540 M3 17.5T System
  • Airtronics RX-461 FH4T & MT-4 TX
  • 69T spur, 31T pinion (Robinson racing), as per the factory recommendation
  • 32wt shock fluid in front and back, as per the factory recommendation
  • Reedy 2s 5200 mah 50C saddle pack
  • Jconcepts bar codes on AE wheels (blue, F/R)

Question - Is the little Teflon diff cover inside the outdrive recommended? Mine seems to not want to slide in unless I use a lot of force, and I'm worried that it will be difficult to retrieve if I ever wanted to take it out.
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:45 AM   #19052
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Question - Is the little Teflon diff cover inside the outdrive recommended? Mine seems to not want to slide in unless I use a lot of force, and I'm worried that it will be difficult to retrieve if I ever wanted to take it out.
You can still make adjustments to the diff through the little hole in that diff cover so you don't really need to remove it often. And when you do need to remove it, you can disassemble the diff first and push it out from the other side of the outdrive.

Last edited by Gearhead82; 03-17-2016 at 06:35 AM.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:27 AM   #19053
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Question - Is the little Teflon diff cover inside the outdrive recommended? Mine seems to not want to slide in unless I use a lot of force, and I'm worried that it will be difficult to retrieve if I ever wanted to take it out.
If you run on a dusty track you will definitely want it in there as its helping keep the thrust assembly clean. I've never hear of anyone having problems with it not fitting either???
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:41 AM   #19054
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What racing wing do you guys prefer in regards to bang for the buck? ive heard a few guys at my track recommend the serpent buggy wing.
I have been running the serpent wing for awhile. It has definitely outlasted anything else I have tried (jconcepts,ae oem). I believe its .040 thick. I would buy another but mount it using the screw down method instead of the body clips because you can't use the wing wedge and still clip it in. I had to use some old pan car axle spacers to take up most of the slack and its not perfect. So just be aware there is some fit n finish to work out like anytime you use something non-standard.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:58 AM   #19055
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I have been running the serpent wing for awhile. It has definitely outlasted anything else I have tried (jconcepts,ae oem). I believe its .040 thick. I would buy another but mount it using the screw down method instead of the body clips because you can't use the wing wedge and still clip it in. I had to use some old pan car axle spacers to take up most of the slack and its not perfect. So just be aware there is some fit n finish to work out like anytime you use something non-standard.
Is this the Serpent wing you're using?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...500189/p269221
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:20 AM   #19056
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If you run on a dusty track you will definitely want it in there as its helping keep the thrust assembly clean. I've never hear of anyone having problems with it not fitting either???
thats what i suspected.. preserving the thrust assembly. it fits but it's just really tight. I think the particular outdrive is a little smaller? not to mention I had a hell of a time loosening and installing ball joints too lol.
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:57 AM   #19057
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thats what i suspected.. preserving the thrust assembly. it fits but it's just really tight. I think the particular outdrive is a little smaller? not to mention I had a hell of a time loosening and installing ball joints too lol.
Did you put chapstick or black grease on the threads when building the turnbuckles? I also drill out the ball cups with a 7/64 bit before threading in the turnbuckle.
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:36 AM   #19058
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I have another one for you Associated guys....

I switched over to the aluminum hub. What position do I run and what washer do I run to get the same camber link height and position that I had before? I ran the stock hub with the 3 hole setup, with the holes up. I found plastic washers in the materials left over from the build and put enough under the ball stud to keep it from getting into the bearing... but I can tell the camber link isn't the same. I would like to run an aluminum washer that will put everything to as close as that stock position as possible.

Also.. does anyone know of a part number I can order to get the 3mm flat head screws needed to mount the wing on the JC wing mount?
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:50 AM   #19059
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Originally Posted by JC8390 View Post
I have another one for you Associated guys....

I switched over to the aluminum hub. What position do I run and what washer do I run to get the same camber link height and position that I had before? I ran the stock hub with the 3 hole setup, with the holes up. I found plastic washers in the materials left over from the build and put enough under the ball stud to keep it from getting into the bearing... but I can tell the camber link isn't the same. I would like to run an aluminum washer that will put everything to as close as that stock position as possible.

Also.. does anyone know of a part number I can order to get the 3mm flat head screws needed to mount the wing on the JC wing mount?
I have the associated aluminum hubs and I have the ball stud on the forward outside position and 1 degree camber. The ball studs are on the inside position of the part on the shock shaft with a 2mm spacer.

As for the screw... Try a local hardware store first.. I'm sure you could find the screw for like 10 - 15 cents. If you order an "AE" official screw set it'll probably come with like 5 for 3-4 bucks. Just my .02 on that.
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:58 AM   #19060
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As for the screw... Try a local hardware store first.. I'm sure you could find the screw for like 10 - 15 cents. If you order an "AE" official screw set it'll probably come with like 5 for 3-4 bucks. Just my .02 on that.
+1

I modified the stock wing mount to accept screws. I found 3mm screws and washers at my local Ace Hardware. They had a pretty good assortment. Here's what I did with my wing:

Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:27 AM   #19061
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Did you put chapstick or black grease on the threads when building the turnbuckles? I also drill out the ball cups with a 7/64 bit before threading in the turnbuckle.
actually i did. I used a set screw with some black grease to thread and lubricate the insides. once I thought the hard part was over, the ball cups require a lot of force to snap over the ball joints (even after loosening them up from binding - which was another episode, whew).

re. turnbuckles - do they inevitably get scratched up over time from adjustments? or is there a certain method or tool to mitigate that? all the turnbuckle wrenches I've seen are some sort of alloy so I bet it would easily take off the anodized paint.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:01 AM   #19062
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Originally Posted by JC8390 View Post
I have another one for you Associated guys....

I switched over to the aluminum hub. What position do I run and what washer do I run to get the same camber link height and position that I had before? I ran the stock hub with the 3 hole setup, with the holes up. I found plastic washers in the materials left over from the build and put enough under the ball stud to keep it from getting into the bearing... but I can tell the camber link isn't the same. I would like to run an aluminum washer that will put everything to as close as that stock position as possible.

Also.. does anyone know of a part number I can order to get the 3mm flat head screws needed to mount the wing on the JC wing mount?
For the aluminum hubs you want the etched "0" facing the rear of the car. You'll want to use the back row inside hole to match the hole you were using previously. You'll need the 8mm ballstud with 3mm of washers to attain the correct height. Use part number: 4617 for the washers, they are larger in size and give the ball stud more support. Be sure to loctite the ballstud!!

For the JC wing mounts you'll want 3x6mm screws. Get some from either AE or the hardware store if you can.
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:23 PM   #19063
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For the aluminum hubs you want the etched "0" facing the rear of the car. You'll want to use the back row inside hole to match the hole you were using previously. You'll need the 8mm ballstud with 3mm of washers to attain the correct height. Use part number: 4617 for the washers, they are larger in size and give the ball stud more support. Be sure to loctite the ballstud!!

For the JC wing mounts you'll want 3x6mm screws. Get some from either AE or the hardware store if you can.
OK, thanks ill try those washers. It may have been a small thing but I could definitely tell the car was off.
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:21 PM   #19064
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Does anyone run a slipper eliminator? What are the advantages?
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:27 PM   #19065
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I run a slipper eliminator with my stock buggy on indoor high bite clay. The advantage is less rotating mass and I suppose a very minor reduction in maintenance from not having to deal with slipper pads. I did feel a subtle increase in snap coming out of corners with it. New tires would net me a bigger improvement in lap times, lol
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