Socket

iTrader: (61)

The cars I have witnessed with them have been absolutely silent. I couldn't eat the 150 price, but for 79 shipped I could justify it. I also am severely under weight, so this should help add a little Back.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

I used the AE plastic horn and on the XP1015 it was always tight. On the Sanwa and Orion servo it was better. Never cared for the aluminum horn when I tried it, no reason just didn't like it. I might try the Losi next time but always have so many AE ones sitting around just stick it on.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Fair enough. I personally still won't spend $80 vs. $12 from AE just because it might be quieter. But that's me.

I won't spend $200+ to "test" Ti screws either. Maybe spend that trying different brands as I build new cars but not actually "testing" 3 different brands on ONE car. (I'm obviously tying the previous question about testing Ti screws into this post)

Socket

iTrader: (61)

I know what you're saying, it's all prespective.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I think part of the issue is the tightness of the cups. I keep pinching and polishing, but i notice the servo link keeps tightening. So my guess is that it works the stud loose a little, then torques on it and strips it.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

In my "opinion" the servo horn should just slip on, and not have to use force to press it on. Originally, I thought the issue was with my servo. maybe the splines with a tad out of tolerance. It was a cheapo brand anyway, so I replaced it the a hitec 8360 and the same issue. So I bought a protek 130ss, same issue with tight press on fitment. So then I bought an expert Lee martin signature servo.....same issues. Several different brands with the same fitment of AE horns. So I figured that was the way it was supposed to be. Then I stripped a horn and all I could find was an TLR22 plastic horn. And it slipped right on with no added pressure. And I was loving it until....the spline stripped out, lol. I guess the easier fitment has its own issues. The horn skipped a few teeth during a race. So a friend gave me a tlr22 alum horn and i have used it ever since. Easy fitment and durable. So that is the history behind my displeasure with the AE horn. I dont like the way it goes on, lol. Yes it functions fine, but i dont like it.

bilster44

iTrader: (1)

It's common sense.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

haha, I have never messed up a full metal gear servo, but of course it adds more stress. I was just laughing at your made up statistics. Heck, I know a guy that snapped the alum steering cranks in the B5. But his servo and metal servo horn were fine.....

TonyWest

iTrader: (50)

I also run the tlr servo form on my car with no issues.

GizmoTLR

iTrader: (1)

Let me start by saying sorry if this has been answered but i dont feel like searching through 800 pages. I want to run a setup like Hartsons where the battery brace is removed and i can run the esc and receiver in the center of the car. My question is how does the battery stay in place with no mounting bracket since the brace is removed? Is it just wedged between the esc and rear brace?

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

servo tape or a very strong velcro

robbie_gtc

iTrader: (7)

I have had atleast 3 AE plastic horns strip out in the past year. All of which happened just during normal racing. I could see if I smoked a pipe and it stripped, but all three were happened doing clean laps. Just coming down the backside of a jump. One front wheel landing a little before the other. Next thing I know the teeth have skipped or stripped and I have no steering.

I agree with wildcat. Tlr aluminum horn is the way to go

air8

iTrader: (7)

Anyone sand diff rings when rebuilding theirs?

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I sand new ones and old ones. Some times new ones have crap on them. I rarely buy rings. I just use the ones in the kit and keep sanding them. It doesn't hurt to measure the thickness around the rings with a digital caliper or mic after a few sandings to ensure they're not getting non-uniform. I tend to keep a set of rings around just in case, and if I have to buy new balls, which is pretty rare, I get rings too just to be safe.

Wayne

air8

iTrader: (7)

Yep. Sounds about the same here. I bought this car used 5 weeks ago. Just now had time to go through the car and find out the setup plus redo the diff. My B5-R still has the same diff from October '14 and feels good.

I use an old outdrive, 600 sandpaper, and do several figure 8's to get a crosshatch on the rings for traction.

I've never mic'd the rings but actually had that thought tonight.