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Old 03-13-2016, 09:12 PM   #18946
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Gearing a race vehicle is so simple when using Novak electronics. They do the hard work for you (timings)
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:15 PM   #18947
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Gearing a race vehicle is so simple when using Novak electronics. They do the hard work for you (timings)
What?
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:16 PM   #18948
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Ok, I know it is hard to tell me what to do over the internet, but I was just hoping for a general guideline. I loved the rip from adding a 33 pinion but I just couldn't get up to top speed on the straight as much as I felt I needed to . I just wasn't sure if this motor was a real burner (as in heat), so I didn't want to go out on my first run with a 32 or 33 and see 160+ temps.
I do have a fan on my motor since I am way underweight so I am hoping I will see similar temps as I have currently just with more rip :P
I had a team works D4 based Fantom and it never got very warm at all and I went up to 35/69 and it hit maybe 135*. So don't be afraid to start at 32. Just gear it for speed, you should be top speed about 3/4 down the straight away. Righ about when most people start shutting it down.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:17 PM   #18949
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What?
Yeah wha?
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:21 PM   #18950
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Originally Posted by cripplethreat View Post
What's a good starting point for gear diff on a dusty rough outdoor track? thanks in advance



Your better off running a ball diff you could try 3k or 2k in the Gear diff first though to see.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:37 PM   #18951
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Default need help with a tamiya

Hello ..
I'd like to start off by saying I'm a newbie to the rc world and recently purchased a
TAMIYA 1/10 RC TA01 4WD CHASSIS Kazama Auto's 2JZ Lexus IS

Servo -FUTABA FP-S148 × 2

RECIEVER : FUTABA FP-R112JE

Now the issue I have is that it didn't come with a transmitter like most tamiya rc...
so my question is.
Could I use any match pair of transmitter and reciver for the tamiya and do they have to be tamiya brand??
I'm oblivion to the mhz and channel of the futaba that is stated above
So b4 anyone asks that question.
My respond is I, don't, know.
If anyone does know what channel and mhz that the futaba run on do let me know pls.
I am most grateful and I will appriciate any help that has Been provided Thank you in advance 😊
Preferably private massage me do that I have your full attention .
Thank you once gain
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:18 PM   #18952
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm View Post
Just ordered a fantom 17.5 today. Looking for some gearing suggestions. I currently run a 32 tooth and get to about 90 degrees in these cooler temperatures. Should I be gearing about the same as my Hobbywing 3650? From what I read here, I am thinking I should start with a 30 or 31 tooth? Any suggestions would be appreciated for my mid size high bite clay track.
When I ordered mine I asked them what their opinion was. They said start at 30 or 31 but 32 would likely be the sweet spot. Good luck, you'll love the motor!
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:32 PM   #18953
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Originally Posted by gio24 View Post
Hello ..
I'd like to start off by saying I'm a newbie to the rc world and recently purchased a
TAMIYA 1/10 RC TA01 4WD CHASSIS Kazama Auto's 2JZ Lexus IS

Servo -FUTABA FP-S148 × 2

RECIEVER : FUTABA FP-R112JE

Now the issue I have is that it didn't come with a transmitter like most tamiya rc...
so my question is.
Could I use any match pair of transmitter and reciver for the tamiya and do they have to be tamiya brand??
I'm oblivion to the mhz and channel of the futaba that is stated above
So b4 anyone asks that question.
My respond is I, don't, know.
If anyone does know what channel and mhz that the futaba run on do let me know pls.
I am most grateful and I will appriciate any help that has Been provided Thank you in advance 😊
Preferably private massage me do that I have your full attention .
Thank you once gain
Welcome to the RC world but you posted in the wrong thread

Here's the information on your remote that would be useful, also check out the FAQ section on that site which will help.
http://www.futabarc.com/receivers/old-receivers.html
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Old 03-14-2016, 01:04 AM   #18954
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Originally Posted by Keith B View Post
Gearing a race vehicle is so simple when using Novak electronics. They do the hard work for you (timings)
Is this a joke post? Novak hasn't been relevant in racing since the brushed days, even then, LRP started wooping their asses on ESC's and Trinity with motors. The Novak 4 was their last really good esc and I can't remember the last time they had a good motor, maybe the havoc when SC first started to get big. Bob Novak, is an extremely nice guy and holds a very dear place in this hobby. But he's let the times steam roll over him and Novak's dead now in the racing world. Stop living in 1987
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Old 03-14-2016, 01:21 AM   #18955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisNyholm View Post
Ok, I know it is hard to tell me what to do over the internet, but I was just hoping for a general guideline. I loved the rip from adding a 33 pinion but I just couldn't get up to top speed on the straight as much as I felt I needed to . I just wasn't sure if this motor was a real burner (as in heat), so I didn't want to go out on my first run with a 32 or 33 and see 160+ temps.
I do have a fan on my motor since I am way underweight so I am hoping I will see similar temps as I have currently just with more rip :P
Dennis stop by my pit table next time your there I'll take a look and get u set for Irh These gentlemen here did post some real good info.

Phil
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:40 AM   #18956
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Originally Posted by Just2much19 View Post
When I ordered mine I asked them what their opinion was. They said start at 30 or 31 but 32 would likely be the sweet spot. Good luck, you'll love the motor!
Really now? I run 69/31 like in the manual and I actually like it better that the 72/29 I was running before so you think me going up one pinion tooth to 69/32 will be even better in my B5M FL btw that never gets above 120*f even after 25 minutes straight during practice (God I love the new mach3) and btw this is 17.5 stock but timing and boost allowed
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:24 AM   #18957
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Really now? I run 69/31 like in the manual and I actually like it better that the 72/29 I was running before so you think me going up one pinion tooth to 69/32 will be even better in my B5M FL btw that never gets above 120*f even after 25 minutes straight during practice (God I love the new mach3) and btw this is 17.5 stock but timing and boost allowed
You can't gear a car over the internet.

He's talking about a different brand motor.
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:31 AM   #18958
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Originally Posted by Phil Trotta View Post
Dennis stop by my pit table next time your there I'll take a look and get u set for Irh These gentlemen here did post some real good info.

Phil
Thanks Phil! Hoping to come down after I get it. I'll be happy to have you take a look at my car, any insight is helpful as I'm still learning!
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Old 03-14-2016, 08:53 AM   #18959
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Which 2.2 wheels are best for the B5M? I have a couple sets of the Associated ones but almost all of the wheels have developed small cracks on the back near the bead. Very uniform. Almost like a defect of some kind. I wouldn't mind trying another brand for my next set of tires. Any suggestions?

I also have a set of JConcept "Bullet" 60mm but I don't like the front hexes. They're very shallow and tight which makes it hard to get the axle hexes seated properly when tightening them. I'm not sure if their 2.2 wheels are the same or not.
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Old 03-14-2016, 09:03 AM   #18960
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Originally Posted by Gearhead82 View Post
Which 2.2 wheels are best for the B5M? I have a couple sets of the Associated ones but almost all of the wheels have developed small cracks on the back near the bead. Very uniform. Almost like a defect of some kind. I wouldn't mind trying another brand for my next set of tires. Any suggestions?

I also have a set of JConcept "Bullet" 60mm but I don't like the front hexes. They're very shallow and tight which makes it hard to get the axle hexes seated properly when tightening them. I'm not sure if their 2.2 wheels are the same or not.
The JC 2.2 front wheels have a deeper hex and seat better than the 2.4's. The change was made to allow the 2.4" wheels to fit better on the serpent car I think. I think I remember some having to trim the wheel to get it to fit properly on the serpent car. I've never had an issue with the JC wheels.
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