Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread >

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree137Likes

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-25-2015, 06:04 PM
  #18886  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
gooba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: grimes,ia
Posts: 471
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Run it with slop. Loose fitting AE cars are normal and fast
gooba is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 06:23 PM
  #18887  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 383
Default

Originally Posted by gooba
Run it with slop. Loose fitting AE cars are normal and fast
These statements are silly
Barge is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 08:35 PM
  #18888  
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1,321
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Sean is right... the more you tighten the kit standoff the more it will crush the plastic and cause it to be tight like it is in the vid. The FT however will not crush so it lets the shock be free and have play like it should. With his kit ones I guarantee that when you fully compress that side and try and wiggle or spin the shock it is completely stuck and thats not good and WILL cause your car to behave strangely. Put the FT standoffs on and snug the nut down and make sure the shock is free when fully compressed, then your cars suspension will be performing as it was designed. Hope this helps you.
Skeeter36 is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 08:37 PM
  #18889  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Antelope Valley, CA
Posts: 5,090
Trader Rating: 515 (100%+)
Default

I guess I'm not sure what we're calling slop. The shock is supposed to sort of swivel on the shock bushing ball. Mine move but do not really have any slop. If the movement is the issue then don't worry about it. They are not supposed to fixed in place at the top.
QDRHRSE is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 08:58 PM
  #18890  
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1,321
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

He is referring to the movement fore and aft. (forwards and backwards) as far as I can tell because I didnt see it moving up and down much which it shouldnt.
Skeeter36 is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 09:00 PM
  #18891  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 625
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

I got some Avid bearings for my B5M today. Before I do something stupid and ruin these things should I buy new crush washers for the front hubs? I'm running one piece titanium front axles and it looks like they may be machined so that they will prevent deforming the bearings when the screw is tightened. But I'm not completely sure.
iScream is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 09:06 PM
  #18892  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 17,388
Trader Rating: 84 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by iScream
I got some Avid bearings for my B5M today. Before I do something stupid and ruin these things should I buy new crush washers for the front hubs? I'm running one piece titanium front axles and it looks like they may be machined so that they will prevent deforming the bearings when the screw is tightened. But I'm not completely sure.
lol, I am about to get some Ti axles myself. and i plan to replace my crush tube. My crush tubes are originals from a year ago and I am told they were at some point updated. the are like $2, so why not. cheap compared to the rest of the car, lol
Wildcat1971 is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 11:57 PM
  #18893  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Cridd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 1,948
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
We have a place in Three Rivers....I bet you race at that little indoor in Exeter. I've been dying to try it out but since we're always there to get away my wife always gives me the stink eye when I even bring it up.
Yep, little 15 second lap, small venue, a little trash talk, good times. Sometimes I get down to Bakersfield for Rainman's and even less to your neck of the woods. Where do you race?
Cridd is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 12:29 AM
  #18894  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
aeRayls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,257
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by iScream
I got some Avid bearings for my B5M today. Before I do something stupid and ruin these things should I buy new crush washers for the front hubs? I'm running one piece titanium front axles and it looks like they may be machined so that they will prevent deforming the bearings when the screw is tightened. But I'm not completely sure.
You can get another crush tube if you like, no biggie since they are very cheap. However, the real problem is the inserts themselves. You must glue them in!! When you glue them have the bearings and axle ready to put in so that the glue dries with them all lined up.
aeRayls is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 06:52 AM
  #18895  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
JeepnMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Corryton, TN
Posts: 499
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Socket
I really liked the 2.4's in mod, as they produce more grip overall to me. I really liked them on my rear motor car Outdoors. Indoors, with the mid motor, I like the 2.2's better For 17.5

(I'm also selling a large lot of 2.4's in the classifieds)
Are you selling all of your 2.4's and not planning on running them for mod? I am still beating this one up deciding on which tire / wheel I want to go with in my new buggy. From what I can tell, there was a few folks griping about the glue coming up, which to me sounds more like a glue / operator problem. If 2.4" is better overall (for mod) and is likely the direction all will be headed after ROAR approves them, why not jump on the bandwagon now? I am obviously not racing in any ROAR events, I just want to get the best and not yesterday's news.

I can see I am going to have to re-learn how to glue tires (the right and clean way). All of my 1/8 scale stuff has been pre-mounts.

Thanks for your help!
JeepnMike is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 07:39 AM
  #18896  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 625
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
lol, I am about to get some Ti axles myself. and i plan to replace my crush tube. My crush tubes are originals from a year ago and I am told they were at some point updated. the are like $2, so why not. cheap compared to the rest of the car, lol
I bought my kit from the LHS in mid December but I'm not sure when it was actually manufactured. I guess I might as well replace the crush tubes when I install the bearings.

Just to be sure it's clear, I wasn't running the one piece axles when my bearings got crunchy. I noticed the bearings when I was installing the axles.
iScream is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 07:57 AM
  #18897  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 625
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aeRayls
You can get another crush tube if you like, no biggie since they are very cheap. However, the real problem is the inserts themselves. You must glue them in!! When you glue them have the bearings and axle ready to put in so that the glue dries with them all lined up.
Thanks. After doing a little searching in the thread, I think I'm gonna pick up the hard steering block and insert set then glue in the inserts. I was really happy with the handling of my car on our track Sunday so losing the ability to adjust shouldn't be an issue.
iScream is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 08:22 AM
  #18898  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
aeRayls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,257
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by iScream
Thanks. After doing a little searching in the thread, I think I'm gonna pick up the hard steering block and insert set then glue in the inserts. I was really happy with the handling of my car on our track Sunday so losing the ability to adjust shouldn't be an issue.
It has been noted by a few of our other team drivers that the hard steering blocks somehow magnify the problem. I would use the stock steering blocks and inserts OR the stock blocks with the hard inserts.
aeRayls is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 08:46 AM
  #18899  
Tech Regular
 
Jason Baliban's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 318
Default

Originally Posted by aeRayls
It has been noted by a few of our other team drivers that the hard steering blocks somehow magnify the problem. I would use the stock steering blocks and inserts OR the stock blocks with the hard inserts.
I can echo this finding. I tried the same thing and my bearings got crunchy extremely fast. Perhaps even more telling is that when i broke one of the blocks and went back to my older blocks with the same bearings, the bearings felt better. When i say old, i mean old, you could see the inserts just moving around in the blocks.

jB
Jason Baliban is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 09:00 AM
  #18900  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
 
Peter Martin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 790
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

These will help tremendously.

Made for this type of application.

http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=596
Peter Martin is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.