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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:23 PM   #18661
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Anyone have advice for making an Airtonics servo fit?
I burned up my Savox 1258tg so I order a full size new Srs Airtonics $200 servo and it didn't fit so I sent it back to Amain and just ordered the new Airtonics low profile version 2 that is on its way but the website says the dimensions are the same for every single Airtonics servo they sell so I don't know if this one is gonna be smaller or not so if it isn't I'm wondering how would I make it fit?
The first one was a couple mm's too wide and about a mm too long(side to side) also
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:23 AM   #18662
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Originally Posted by Slashn77 View Post
Anyone have advice for making an Airtonics servo fit?
I burned up my Savox 1258tg so I order a full size new Srs Airtonics $200 servo and it didn't fit so I sent it back to Amain and just ordered the new Airtonics low profile version 2 that is on its way but the website says the dimensions are the same for every single Airtonics servo they sell so I don't know if this one is gonna be smaller or not so if it isn't I'm wondering how would I make it fit?
The first one was a couple mm's too wide and about a mm too long(side to side) also
You can try removing the servo mount washers to save a tiny bit of space.
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:01 AM   #18663
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Originally Posted by Silverstonev8 View Post
I recently built a CE and used the lite instructions for the build. I found out that not included with the CE kit are the 1mm ball stud washers for the front camber link, shims for the outputs of the diff and the b5 rear arms. I think that was all.
I feel like the only plus about the CE kit is that it includes pretty shock bodies...
What made you pick up a CE for stock class?
I was going to get the FL for the stock class until I compared the two. From what i seen the only main differences was the CE did not have the lightened chassis (which I have on order) but has better shocks, and both 3 and 4 gear tranny.
Plus through A-Main I used enough cupon codes so i got the CE the same price as fl
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:12 AM   #18664
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I was going to get the FL for the stock class until I compared the two. From what i seen the only main differences was the CE did not have the lightened chassis (which I have on order) but has better shocks, and both 3 and 4 gear tranny.
Plus through A-Main I used enough cupon codes so i got the CE the same price as fl
I made the same decision. But actually ended up with both. I placed an FL on backorder with tower and then decide to order the CE from amain since it was in stock and had the extra goodies. After placing the order with amain I saw my back order had been processed already from tower the day after I placed it. I decided to build the CE kit for the same reasons as you but in the end I wish I built the FL
I paid 234 for the FL and 299 for the CE
Trying to get my brother to take the FL off my hands before I give in to the itch and build it.
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Old 03-03-2016, 07:27 AM   #18665
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How about your diff? Is it possible that its a hair tight, worn out, built wrong? I just put a diff in one of my B5Ms and adjusted it too tight and my car was complete dog-sh-poop until I adjusted it accordingly.
It shouldn't be wore out... and I don't believe its built wrong but who knows lol.

What is the best way to adjust it? A local guy told me to tighten it all the way down then back off 1/8 turn. Seems like if I back off much more its too loose and barks on hard throttle.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:14 AM   #18666
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I just bought a B5m Champions edition, from A-Main, to run 17.5 stock buggy class. What upgrades should I get for it? As in like aluminum jconcepts parts & etc. Also what bodies are everyone using? I like the look of the jconcepts warrior, but I seen a lot of people running the JC world's body.
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Nah but in the sense of goodies - I got rear aluminum hubs because the plastic to aluminum piece kept getting impacted and would break. I was tired of having it happen during races causing me to depart early. I also bought aluminum parts for the steering hub because I broke that part too. My friend bought the schelle racing arm mount .. pretty good concept.
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:50 AM   #18667
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It shouldn't be wore out... and I don't believe its built wrong but who knows lol.

What is the best way to adjust it? A local guy told me to tighten it all the way down then back off 1/8 turn. Seems like if I back off much more its too loose and barks on hard throttle.

How did you build it the first time? Did you break it it??


Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:35 PM   #18668
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LOL where did you get that?

I made it... but it looks like someone can't take a joke and removed the image... LOL
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:38 PM   #18669
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Looking good! What's the motor and esc setup?
Thanks...Castle Mamba Max Pro, and Trackstar Outlaw 17.5...
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:10 PM   #18670
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Love the chassis protector!

Thanks... Tony didn't like it so he removed the image... Oh well
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:25 PM   #18671
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I made it... but it looks like someone can't take a joke and removed the image... LOL
Removed quickly too! I wondered what they were talking about!
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:19 PM   #18672
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For those running the aluminum rear hubs... Do you still use the set screw in the arm or just rely on the set screw in the hub to hold the hinge pin like the front with hinge pin mod...
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:24 PM   #18673
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Removed quickly too! I wondered what they were talking about!
It basically looked like a big Mickey Mouse hand giving a middle finger and had a caption saying something like turn me over
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:29 PM   #18674
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It basically looked like a big Mickey Mouse hand giving a middle finger and had a caption saying something like turn me over
haha, awesome. Print them up and sell 'em! :P
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:33 PM   #18675
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haha, awesome. Print them up and sell 'em! :P
That's what I was thinking. I'd totally buy one..
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