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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:14 AM   #1846
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So what gearing for a 17.5 is 69/33 good? Or should I go higher?
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:43 AM   #1847
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I ran 69/32last night at the JBRL in stock buggy. Really fast on the IERC layout.
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:48 AM   #1848
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Originally Posted by Mxer59 View Post
I did the avid didn't come with a nut, just a silver spacer that's not 4mm, so till I can try and drill it out I was going to use vts slipper but it won't snap together right
Just use the spring and nut from the B5 kit and no spacer
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Old 03-10-2014, 05:23 AM   #1849
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Finally got the slipper housing onto the 72T spur gear. I found I had to apply pressure to opposite side of the spur gear in the centre to cause it to flex outward allowing the slipper housing to squeeze in.
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:22 AM   #1850
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
He must have purchased the factory team kit.
Too funny!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:11 AM   #1851
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Default b5m build

I built a b5m over the weekend (took about 5 hours total) and these are my suggestions:

1) use super fine synthetic steel wool pads (about $5) to polish the ball ends, shock shafts, and the front inner hinge pins (simply put the item into a dremel, spin it up and then polish with the pad for a few seconds)- this is especially true for the front inner hinge pins because the front kick up block is very tight.

2) in the gearbox, use 1 .1x10mm shim to take slop out of the diff, and 1 .1x5mm shim to take slop out of the top shaft (between the top shaft gear and the aluminum spacer)

3) use 3 .3x4mm shims to remove play from the rear arms. in my kit, the rear left arm had twice the play of the right, so I put 1 shim at the back of the left arm, and then 1 shim in front of both arms. this removed all play.

4) the turnbuckles are way too long. they used the same ones as the b4, but since the ball cups are longer, you go past the threaded area by quite a bit. I had some 43mm turnbuckles laying around and they worked perfectly. don't forget to put chapstick on the threads.

5) the diff went together fine, but the stock diff rings are not flat. I had to sand mine to get them flat.

6) if you are using a novak ballistic motor, the motor shaft hits the gear cover. I simply used a reamer to open a hole where the shaft made an indent in the cover.

7) take your time with the gear box screws, they are tight.

8) the stock wheel nuts are junk. when you go to take them off, 2 of the nylon inserts got jammed in the threads. i just used regular 4mm serrated nuts

9) the only part my kit was missing was one of the 3 hole plastic rear hub inserts (go opposite the blue aluminum one.) Aside from that, the 8 year old putting the box together did well.

Other than those issues, the build went fine. It really is a nice car, and I especially like the reasonable prices. Even though many will get the hopups as they are released, you really don't need them.

Good job team associated.
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Last edited by billjacobs; 03-10-2014 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:40 AM   #1852
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We run soft/super soft tires at our local track. It's a damp hard packed dirt surface. Is anybody using AKA foam in the front tires?
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:27 AM   #1853
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what clutch systems are you guys using? i know that a lot of people dislike the vts. i liked the avid and i also liked the old 2 pad with the gario's.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:28 AM   #1854
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hey good tip on the steel wool for polishing.. I used mothers metal polishing paste from walmart.. had it already. like you just use ballend in dremel and a dot of polishing paste on rag then wipe clean.. looks like polished chrome when done and super smooth.

Taking time on the build and doing it right makes a huge difference in any car.. I have over 40 packs on mine and its still tight and feels great. diff is super smooth and shocks are awesome! I have changed the fluid a bunch figuring out setups..

But now I have a setup I really really like and cant imagine a better 2wd car.

oh and for those thinking the b5m is heavier and not as quick in stock... I was playing at one of my local tracks with my reedy stocker and broke the track record by 1.8 seconds.. stock or mod! the car is super easy to carry speed, so much that you may not look like your going as fast but its smooth fast with lots of corner speed. I love how it jumps and how smooth it is in the choppy stuff compared to a rear motor one.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:32 AM   #1855
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Can anyone confirm that only the shock bodies, O-rings, and guide bushings are absolutely necessary to (roughly) convert b4.2 shocks to v2 smoothness levels?
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:34 AM   #1856
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Maniac hobby in florida has some in stock
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:35 AM   #1857
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
what clutch systems are you guys using? i know that a lot of people dislike the vts. i liked the avid and i also liked the old 2 pad with the gario's.
twin pad with the yellow is what I'm using...
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:47 AM   #1858
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Maniac hobby in florida has some in stock
Scratch that, looks like I got the last 1
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:06 AM   #1859
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Originally Posted by rpbill View Post
We run soft/super soft tires at our local track. It's a damp hard packed dirt surface. Is anybody using AKA foam in the front tires?
Bill
In 2wd buggy, seems most guys run the stock/free open cell rear tire foam cut down to 3/4 (including pros). This actually feels just about the same to me as a closed cell front foam. Seems like I get better front traction this way as well.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:09 AM   #1860
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Originally Posted by rickster View Post
Taking time on the build and doing it right makes a huge difference in any car.. I have over 40 packs on mine and its still tight and feels great. diff is super smooth and shocks are awesome! I have changed the fluid a bunch figuring out setups..

But now I have a setup I really really like and cant imagine a better 2wd car.
Care to share, please ?
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