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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 02-10-2016, 05:17 PM   #18301
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I don't want to keep dragging this out but I've tried gear and ball diffs on everything from loamy low grip all the way to high grip astro. For me, even on astro the ball diff felt better. The lower the grip got, the worse the gear diff worked for me. Some of it may have just been my increased level of familiarity with the ball diff but I was definitely faster on every surface with the ball diff. I think the reason gear diffs have started to come back around are because of the increasing level of power and grip on cars and tracks. I also believe that a lot of why they are becoming more popular is because folks haven't been building and breaking in ball diffs properly. Just my $0.02.
This is part of the reason I don't run a ball diff. I couldn't figure them out and no one I raced with said they were comfortable enough to show me how. I followed the video that is recommended on here and just couldn't get it. After 4 diff rebuilds, I put the car in the box it came in and put that box in the garage. I recently decided to give 2wd buggy another shot, this time with a gear diff. Gear diffs are easy and I'm familiar with them which is why I now have one in my B5M. I'd try a ball diff again if I could have someone show me in person, but until then, I'll keep the gear diff.
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:28 PM   #18302
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Do things in this order, start from 1:

1. Set trims on radio to 0
2. Attach horn to servo (at neutral) as close to 90 degrees as possible.
3. Attach plastic ballcup linkage to steering bellcranks.
4. Set bellcranks as straight as possible by adjusting radio sub-trim/trim
5. Adjust steering turnbuckles so wheels are straight (or whatever toe you prefer). They should be approximately the same length if you did 1-4 right.
6. Set EPA right/left so nothing hits.

Did I miss anything?

Thanks! I had it set up correctly on the car but didn't fully understand the trim/subtrim and EPA settings on my radio. I went back through the manual and think I've got it figured out now.
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:37 PM   #18303
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This is part of the reason I don't run a ball diff. I couldn't figure them out and no one I raced with said they were comfortable enough to show me how. I followed the video that is recommended on here and just couldn't get it. After 4 diff rebuilds, I put the car in the box it came in and put that box in the garage. I recently decided to give 2wd buggy another shot, this time with a gear diff. Gear diffs are easy and I'm familiar with them which is why I now have one in my B5M. I'd try a ball diff again if I could have someone show me in person, but until then, I'll keep the gear diff.



Yea i ran ball diffs in a 2wd even when i started and now i run 1/8 scale during the outdoor season so yes i rather run a Gear diff just easyier to keep up with . If you got the right weight oil around 3000k to 4000k still curious about 5000k on clay it will grip fine on most clay .

As long as you have the right tires and sauce and slipper set good its fine. Can i tell the difference between the two diffs with the ball i guess it can be more predictable as long as it keeps it tightness on the track . Gear i noticed more forward drive on power most of the time its predictable just stay out of the clay marbles or bumps around that's about it.

So really its a preference thing on the two diffs yes a ball diff is eayier to set on a fly for tightness and looseness . I haven't tried the gear diff on clay with this buggy but on my Dex210 V2 i did but that buggy was inconstant rear grip wise not enough Rear weight bias.
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:26 PM   #18304
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I'm putting in a ball diff with a 3 gear mid motor it says in the B5M Lite manuel to have the diff thrust bolt facing the spur gear is that right ? I though reguardless you have it facing the non spur gear side .
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:10 PM   #18305
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How do I get my 3gear car to rip wheelies like Alex K's on a flat no traction clay surface???

This past weekend at the JC winter nationals in stl, Alex was ripping wheelies on the straight before the race stared. The traction was terrible, I ran 4gear like always because it seems to have more forward bite on our low bit Midwest tracks. But he and every othe fast ae car was running 3gear and looked to have no issues with forward drive. So I switched to a 3gear and my car doesn't do wheelies when I punch it, my tires are well sauced and inserts broken in, Idk what I'm missing? My car has BT's most recent club setup on it, esc setup as well.
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Old 02-11-2016, 02:46 AM   #18306
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wheres your gearing. are you freinds with alex on any social networks. hes a great kid and im positive he would help u out. is your buggy making traction with the 3 gear?
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:44 AM   #18307
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I'm putting in a ball diff with a 3 gear mid motor it says in the B5M Lite manuel to have the diff thrust bolt facing the spur gear is that right ? I though reguardless you have it facing the non spur gear side .
I believe it doesn't matter what side you put it on, it's more of a preference. But some say it does and you need to have the head on the passenger side.
This is what I did but I'm new and learning as I go..
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:04 AM   #18308
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That video is a pretty good example...That said..

Only because I've done so many diffs. I can get a basic feel for when the diff spring is about to bottom out, and I STOP about a 1/4 turn before it does. Basically I'm an 1/8 turn out form where AE tells you to set it. (Full compress of the spring then out 1/8 turn. 1/8 + 1/8 = my 1/4 turn out. Get it??

From there, I back the screw out a full turn, yes a full turn. I then begin my break in like in the video, except I do 2 minutes per side. Knowing I'm 1 turn PLUS an 1/8 from where I want my final setting I then turn the diff screw in 1/8 each time I run both directions for 2 minutes. I repeat this until I've tightened the diff screw 1 and 1/8 turns, my final setting.

There is some trial and error involved..

If you don't think you can feel a 1/4 turn from bottomed out and want to set the initial setting like AE states... Bottoming the spring out then backing off 1/8 turn, you can do that. From there back the diff screw out a full turn, or less if you want. Either way, know how far you backed it out so you can turn it in that same amount as you break it in.

Side tip..I don't remove the camber link each time I need to tighten the diff during break in. I leave the side with the diff screw off and basically "hold the wheel" by putting a flat blade screw driver in the out-drive slot to hold it.

Sorry long post, most won't read it all. Any questions just ask. Sadly it's easier to show someone how I do it vs. trying to explain it
Did this last night and it was easy but time consuming. Diff felt butter smooth afterward.

The only thing I was worried about was the heat build up. I know I wasn't running it fast (set my throttle trim on my transmitter about 9 clicks up), but I made sure to give it a few MI uses between cycles to cool down. Melted a diff in my rc12l years ago because it was too loose and I was too young to understand what was happening.
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:05 AM   #18309
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wheres your gearing. are you freinds with alex on any social networks. hes a great kid and im positive he would help u out. is your buggy making traction with the 3 gear?
No I'm not, yet, I didn't want to be weird lol. And my gearing is 21/81 reedy m2 8.0 running the 4100 65c reedy.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:47 AM   #18310
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I believe it doesn't matter what side you put it on, it's more of a preference. But some say it does and you need to have the head on the passenger side.
This is what I did but I'm new and learning as I go..
Since the T-nut is basically a locknut it shouldn't matter. But I've seen some diffs loosen themselves up. But most of them if not all were not in anyway close to being new or well maintained diffs. It didn't happen to me. This was a long time ago since I'm just getting back to racing 2wd.
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Old 02-11-2016, 01:10 PM   #18311
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Since the T-nut is basically a locknut it shouldn't matter. But I've seen some diffs loosen themselves up. But most of them if not all were not in anyway close to being new or well maintained diffs. It didn't happen to me. This was a long time ago since I'm just getting back to racing 2wd.
It's more that the thrust bearing has to be in the deeper half of the diff. If it's in the wrong half, the CVD will bind on one side and the cupped washers on the thrust bearing can get stuck.
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Old 02-11-2016, 04:57 PM   #18312
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Ok I stumped and looking for ideas I have a brand new b5m lite build to the factory spec setup. With my setup wheels on the camber on one side of the front is way off from the other. At 23.5 mm in between the cups one side is at -1 camber and the other is at -6. Even without measuring the camber there is a visible difference to know something is wrong. I have checked everything I know including the length if the turnbuckles(steering, and camber) the caster block is spaced correctly and has the correct caster insert. All of the ball studs are in the correct place with the correct washers. The shocks are in the correct place,middle on top outer hole on arm and shock collars have bean measured to be equal on both sides. I have even diss-connected the entire front clip to see if maybe the chassis was tweaked, and I could still see this huge camber difference by eye. I have swapped the setup wheels side to side, and used rim with no tires too see if they are to blame. In order to have 1mm camber on this side I need to have the length in between the ball ups at 24.5. Has anyone experienced this before or have any ideas?
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:11 PM   #18313
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Ok I stumped and looking for ideas I have a brand new b5m lite build to the factory spec setup. With my setup wheels on the camber on one side of the front is way off from the other. At 23.5 mm in between the cups one side is at -1 camber and the other is at -6. Even without measuring the camber there is a visible difference to know something is wrong. I have checked everything I know including the length if the turnbuckles(steering, and camber) the caster block is spaced correctly and has the correct caster insert. All of the ball studs are in the correct place with the correct washers. The shocks are in the correct place,middle on top outer hole on arm and shock collars have bean measured to be equal on both sides. I have even diss-connected the entire front clip to see if maybe the chassis was tweaked, and I could still see this huge camber difference by eye. I have swapped the setup wheels side to side, and used rim with no tires too see if they are to blame. In order to have 1mm camber on this side I need to have the length in between the ball ups at 24.5. Has anyone experienced this before or have any ideas?
Mine is the same way. My rears end up .5mm different to get equal camber, the fronts a bit more than that. My lite chassis is slightly twisted so I chalked it up to that tho.

Last edited by bwarn97; 02-11-2016 at 05:12 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:17 PM   #18314
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Mine is the same way. My rears end up .5mm different to get equal camber, the fronts a bit more than that. My lite chassis is slightly twisted so I chalked it up to that tho.
Just by eyeball mine seem a little off too. I guess I should buy a camber gauge...
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:47 PM   #18315
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Yeah this just seems so far off I don't know how it would run right with one link 1mm longer than the other. I took the whole front clip off to see if it was a twisted chassis, and by eye the camber was still off. I have a b5r which shares parts on the front so I guess I will start swapping them out to see what is wrong
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