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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-21-2016, 03:28 PM   #17971
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Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
Ok so.... You don't lose travel no matter which spring cups you use. The different height spring cups are used for:
To use the springs on several different shock length. Example: 9mm cups for putting the springs on the truck and 0mm for getting a lower ride height with the stiffer springs like running on carpet.

By adding 6mm-9mm of fuel tubing outside of the shock, you 100% limited your up travel by that same amount! All of the sizes of spring cups sit in the same position on the shock eyelet at the same height. The cups only affect the spring and where it sits.

Example:
Using the kit recommended 5mm offset cup with the white front spring set at the desired ride height is the EXACT same thing as using the 0mm offset cup with the same spring but turning the threaded shock collar down 5mm. None of the spring cups effect the up travel or down travel of the shock shaft.
One aspect that hasn't been brought up on the shock shaft o-ring is the benefit when the car rolls out. Suspension bump stops have been used for many years as a cushion when the suspension limits out. What happens, for example in a deep roll corner, when the suspension hits the stop is a high load transfer to that wheel. Almost like an electrical short to ground. Tires can be rate sensitive; i.e. the higher load rate the more easily they break traction. Bump stops ease, or slow down, the rate of load application to the grounded wheel. I've not tried it with my B5M, but the change seems directionally beneficial with the assumption it is at the cost of suspension travel .
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:00 PM   #17972
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I did not want to remove the shock ends to keep their threads good and used the fuel tubing out of pure simple test. Once I rebuild the shocks I will use an old oring or spare rebuild kit oring instead of the fuel tubing.

I will be trying all sorts of simple tune stuff as I learn how our high grip carpet track is driven. All part of the fun.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:31 PM   #17973
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I seem to be having an odd issue with the Kashima shock pistons. One of the shock pistons has what seems like a lot of play after being screwed in. The other 3 have zero vertical play after being screwed in. I double checked that the washer was on there and tried flipping things around but it still has a lot of play. I assume this will adversely affect the way the shock functions. I plan to call AE tomorrow. Has anyone else encountered this?

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I just purchased one of these kits and while installing the rear clamping 7mm hex on the upgraded axle I broke the bolt off in the hex. Is there a better aftermarket hex I can buy that will fit on the upgraded axle shaft? Thanks
I ran into this as well, except its just stripped the screw in my case. Now that I know about it I probably could've avoided it but I wasn't wrenching on it that hard to begin with. I've never had any issues with the the hexes on my SC10.2 and TLR22. I know the B5M FL is all about saving weight but using the smaller screw seems silly.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:40 PM   #17974
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I bet they save at least 71 Gnat's hairs worth of rear end weight.
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:27 PM   #17975
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Thinking about running pucks again with new rollers but staying with kit diff parts, no alum. outdrives, would it be ok or would it eat the rollers.
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:44 PM   #17976
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Thinking about running pucks again with new rollers but staying with kit diff parts, no alum. outdrives, would it be ok or would it eat the rollers.
You wouldn't be able to use the kit diff outdrives. You'd want to use the MIP steel outdrives that comes with the shiny pucks kit.
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:20 AM   #17977
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Looks like Rivkin is running a 3rd hole in the front arm at the Reedy race.


Image courtesy of RedRC
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Old 01-22-2016, 06:48 AM   #17978
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Anyone wanna post a pic of their electronics set up? I'm about to install some but want to see if anyone got creative with the limited space on the chassis.
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:20 AM   #17979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadstickDuck View Post
I bet they save at least 71 Gnat's hairs worth of rear end weight.
If that's the case, ditch the screws and save another 100+ gnat's hairs!
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:25 AM   #17980
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Anyone wanna post a pic of their electronics set up? I'm about to install some but want to see if anyone got creative with the limited space on the chassis.
Plenty of space unless you're running an RX8 or HUGE receiver.
Heres my arrangement, mid sized receiver and pretty big Orion ESC. Plenty of room.
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Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-012135.jpg  
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:06 AM   #17981
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Anyone wanna post a pic of their electronics set up? I'm about to install some but want to see if anyone got creative with the limited space on the chassis.
Plenty of room. I cut the bracing behind the servo and in front of the battery.
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:18 AM   #17982
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Here's my setup. I need to trim some wires that are tucked away right now, but everything fits well. My transponder will go under the steering rack, and I may trim the top plate cross sections.
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:21 PM   #17983
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Looking good! This is my first car in a long time so I went a little more budget for right now. I got the Hobbywing Xerun 17.5 Justock Combo and a Spectrum DX4C with the SR410 receiver. I'm also going to throw in a Hitech Digital Servo I had lying around. It's not complete yet but I'll post a few pics when it is. I do need to get my hands on a soldering iron... going to have to practice too... it's been a really long time since I've done it.
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Old 01-22-2016, 01:13 PM   #17984
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Take your time with the build and enjoy it at the same time.
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:30 PM   #17985
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Here is one from Ryan Cav...

Plus the link takes you
To 3 or 4 pages of pics of electronic layouts. Enjoy!

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...up/index3.html
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