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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-18-2016, 03:08 PM   #17911
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Originally Posted by Jerm13 View Post
2 inch. Unless you are running an extremely long link, then use a 2.1".


Ok thanks.
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Old 01-18-2016, 03:13 PM   #17912
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I am very happy with my Savox 1258 Black edition.

http://rs666.pbsrc.com/albums/vv23/e...h=480&fit=clip

Last edited by DeadstickDuck; 01-18-2016 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:09 PM   #17913
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Hi guys, my son Tyler just signed with AE for 2016. Excited for the new change!! Any tips on car build? We've ran for TLR for 4.5 of his 6 years of racing and just want to make sure we build car right.
If he just signed with AE I'm sure the AE crew can give him all the setup info he needs and then some. Good luck to him.
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:20 PM   #17914
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Track I'm gonna be running on is a smooth hard clay surface and I'm gonna have a stock class setup. As I build my car, I'm undecided with the 3 or 4 gear transmission. Which would you select and why?
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:55 PM   #17915
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Track I'm gonna be running on is a smooth hard clay surface and I'm gonna have a stock class setup. As I build my car, I'm undecided with the 3 or 4 gear transmission. Which would you select and why?
3 gear - less friction and the smooth hard clay/dialed surface will have plenty of grip to not need the weight shift of the 4 gear, which the 17.5 will not really take advantage of. 4 gear for mod.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:01 PM   #17916
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3 gear mid motor works just as good for mod motor also i ran it on my other buggy i had on Med traction clay to tacky. Actually like it better than 4 gear im going to try it out on this buggy running mod.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:49 PM   #17917
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Originally Posted by Eddie_E View Post
Put the optional 3mm x 8 set screws everywhere you can. (makes sense when you build it) C.A. glue in every suspension insert in every suspension component or it will be a sloppy mess in 2 weeks.

3mm X.5 shims on the rear hub to remove play on hinge-pin.

Install 2 red shock O-rings plus a 1 mm spacer on the outer shock shafts, on the inside of the spring cup to limit the chassis dragging on steep jump faces. It should have 1 mm of air gap between the bottom of the chassis plate and the table when you push down hard on the towers. Free the ball cups as needed, because there are a lot of poorly sized ball cups out there.

Keep a pen and paper close when you build to write down the part numbers of the missing kit parts. It's much faster than trying to remember after it's half built.

Can someone explaine the bold part in my quote, did not get it.
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Old 01-19-2016, 12:29 AM   #17918
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It makes a "bumper" to keep the shocks from bottoming out and serves to keep the chassis from slapping the ground. It's a good idea.
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Old 01-19-2016, 12:56 AM   #17919
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Originally Posted by DeadstickDuck View Post
It makes a "bumper" to keep the shocks from bottoming out and serves to keep the chassis from slapping the ground. It's a good idea.
Aha, okay.
But I donīt get exactly how to do this...
Where to put the shim and Oring...
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:48 AM   #17920
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Aha, okay.
But I donīt get exactly how to do this...
Where to put the shim and Oring...
On the shock shaft between the bottom cap and spring retainer.
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:14 AM   #17921
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On the shock shaft between the bottom cap and spring retainer.
Right here?

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Old 01-19-2016, 02:34 AM   #17922
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I use fuel tubing cut to size
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:53 AM   #17923
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It goes over the shaft to limit how far the shaft travels into the shock.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h9...dspider002.jpg

Last edited by DeadstickDuck; 01-19-2016 at 03:05 AM.
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Old 01-19-2016, 06:10 AM   #17924
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Quick thought on limiting the shocks to prevent the chassis from hitting will this not make it much harder on the shock tower. when your chassis hits if not doing this it is from a decent amount of force, if you move that force from the chassis to the shock tower I would think the chances for failure are greatly increased.

I haven't tried it on B5M so I am just thinking out loud from other cars experiences when I have tried this.
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Old 01-19-2016, 12:29 PM   #17925
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I don't know why you would limit the shock that way. If you land crooked you'd want that extra travel. If you think your chassis is slapping way to much you should change your shock package instead of limiting it more.
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