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Old 01-16-2016, 09:42 AM   #17851
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Hope you guys don't mind me asking here but I am not getting a response in a newbie thread. My hobbywing esc has capacitors attached to it. Would it be ok to mount them on my servo? There is a perfect place right behind my futaba 9550. Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2016, 09:44 AM   #17852
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I'm doing a little maintenance on the car, and changing to a gear diff...What diff oil would be closest to the stock ball diff with stock setting?

Thank you!
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Old 01-16-2016, 09:56 AM   #17853
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Anybody know ?
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Old 01-16-2016, 10:04 AM   #17854
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Anybody know ?
I know a few things... what do you want to know?
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Old 01-16-2016, 10:33 AM   #17855
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm View Post
Hope you guys don't mind me asking here but I am not getting a response in a newbie thread. My hobbywing esc has capacitors attached to it. Would it be ok to mount them on my servo? There is a perfect place right behind my futaba 9550. Thanks!
It probably won't be an issue other than the body might hit it.

Looking around at all the other cars, I see the capacitors mounted to the chassis. So if you have room on the chassis target that area first. Just make sure that the shrink wrap around the capacitors is in tact because you don't want it to short out on something metal.
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Old 01-16-2016, 10:49 AM   #17856
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I'm doing a little maintenance on the car, and changing to a gear diff...What diff oil would be closest to the stock ball diff with stock setting?

Thank you!
Try 3k.
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Old 01-16-2016, 10:51 AM   #17857
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I know a few things... what do you want to know?


It's the gear diff question i had .
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Old 01-16-2016, 11:05 AM   #17858
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I'm doing a little maintenance on the car, and changing to a gear diff...What diff oil would be closest to the stock ball diff with stock setting?

Thank you!
I will say 2000cst diff oil ...
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Old 01-16-2016, 11:10 AM   #17859
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Thank you for the replies about the diff oil!
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Old 01-16-2016, 12:07 PM   #17860
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2k/3k, very flowing high grip 5k
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Old 01-16-2016, 12:39 PM   #17861
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
It probably won't be an issue other than the body might hit it.

Looking around at all the other cars, I see the capacitors mounted to the chassis. So if you have room on the chassis target that area first. Just make sure that the shrink wrap around the capacitors is in tact because you don't want it to short out on something metal.
Great Thanks! It will actually be attached to the back of the servo (shorty servo), so almost down to the chassis. I am going to use it to secure and hide the servo and esc wires to the receiver.
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Old 01-16-2016, 07:10 PM   #17862
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Default Ce kit

I find it odd that the CE kit comes with both ti and steel turnbuckles. Why did they bother including stainless turnbuckles?
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Old 01-16-2016, 07:52 PM   #17863
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This is a bad boy for building B5mce kits.


http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF680N...ic+screwdriver
I use this one with the torque adjustment all the way down so I won't strip the plastic parts. It is great, the removable battery is a plus. I've had it for years now without any problems. The tips I use are AE ones but any would do just fine.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-4-Vol...P54L/205545276
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Old 01-16-2016, 08:03 PM   #17864
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I'm of the honest opinion that the rear b hub "half hole longer" link position should be the default on this platform, regardless of the height of the inside ball stud position specific to your track. I think it makes the car rotate more linearly on most layouts and have a bit more traction when starting out. I really like it.
How do you do this?
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Old 01-16-2016, 08:20 PM   #17865
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How do you do this?
On the standard plastic rear hubs there are 2 pill options. Kit built is 3 hole with link mounted to center hole. The other option is a 2 hole pill which is essentially the locations you cant hit with the 3 hole. This was a change i made on the first day i had my kit on the track and have only considered going back to center hole when the car gets tight.

Not sure which location roughly matches this in aluminum hubs.
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