Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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ok so when is the real factory team with the 4gear trans coming out
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
Stock is for people with too much time on their hands and money to burn. Spending money to go faster with all of the mods and anal retentive weight management when they can slap a mod motor in and run the car stock and save that money for practice time.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Hi Mick,
At the moment, the car drives really well, that's why I posted the set-up, curious for someone to try, or as you have suggested improvements
I'll lower the ride height next time I run it - 20mm front & rear or lower???
Ok re: gear diff, but I do run the ball diff tighter than normal
Toe in: at the moment the higher grip front end from the mini pins 'pulls round' the rear, so it doesn't really break loose unless I really, really push it, or if I re-set the brakes (higher than 50%)
Mid Motor 3 gear: That would be the next thing (with the chassis), but I want to exhaust the settings first. At the moment, the B5 is keeping ahead of fellow MID buggies, but I'm sure that won't last for long
I wonder If anyone has tried to 'shoe horn' a 3 gear mid set up into a B5 chassis?
Mike
At the moment, the car drives really well, that's why I posted the set-up, curious for someone to try, or as you have suggested improvements
I'll lower the ride height next time I run it - 20mm front & rear or lower???
Ok re: gear diff, but I do run the ball diff tighter than normal
Toe in: at the moment the higher grip front end from the mini pins 'pulls round' the rear, so it doesn't really break loose unless I really, really push it, or if I re-set the brakes (higher than 50%)
Mid Motor 3 gear: That would be the next thing (with the chassis), but I want to exhaust the settings first. At the moment, the B5 is keeping ahead of fellow MID buggies, but I'm sure that won't last for long
I wonder If anyone has tried to 'shoe horn' a 3 gear mid set up into a B5 chassis?
Mike
Same here - never bent an axle, kit front bearings (and all the rest) are fine and my ball cups were great out of the box...sometimes this thread makes me wonder..haha
You got a good kit then lol. I've never bent an axle, bearings are notchy after a month. Ball cups where really tight but I loosened them up.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
looks like AE went to the 2 pad system for weight savings.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
yep all over Facebook all day today
And it's not that the bearing are bad, you can throw the worlds greatest bearing in the front and they get notchy, even if you have the clamping hex axel and glue the inserts, it's a poor design
reedy are not great packs for stock. Chances are, you are just used to worse packs. Drop them on an IR checker and you will see. Keep in mine, Reedy is not into the "stock game". Locals have tested a lot of batteries. The orions were deemed to be turns. Started off great and quickly faded away. So far, the 6+ month old Trinity 100c packs are holding a low IR. But you will pay for that. The turnigy ultimate's are ok for the budget racer and so it the vant stuff from dirt cheap RC.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
I probably have 150 packs on my stock front bearings... smooth as butter. The only thing I have changed is the Exotek titanium front axles.
Really? My inserts are glued, I'm running stock axels right now. I have avid bearings in the front and they get griddy after 2 race weekends..
Guess I'll try those axels out
This is due to axle alignment. When you glue inserts, you need to put the bearings in first with the axle, then glue the seam or the bearings will be misaligned and feel gritty.