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Old 01-12-2016, 05:14 PM   #17761
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Do you still use the Blue spacer on full size servos ? Actually i don't know what its for .
I'm trying to figure out which spacer they are talking about, the larger one on the servo horn, or the little spacer on the ball stud? I didn't see the function of the one on the servo horn, but I used it anyway. I think I need to remove the one on the ball stud as I am having clearance issues currently (still in process of the build).
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Old 01-12-2016, 05:24 PM   #17762
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The blue spacer that goes around the servo horn is intended to keep the splines in contact with the servo and not allow the plastic to flex and eventually strip.
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Old 01-12-2016, 05:29 PM   #17763
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm View Post
I'm trying to figure out which spacer they are talking about, the larger one on the servo horn, or the little spacer on the ball stud? I didn't see the function of the one on the servo horn, but I used it anyway. I think I need to remove the one on the ball stud as I am having clearance issues currently (still in process of the build).
They are talking about the larger blue one that slips over the spline area. I utilized mine. It is designed to strengthen the servo horn splines.
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Old 01-12-2016, 05:42 PM   #17764
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They are talking about the larger blue one that slips over the spline area. I utilized mine. It is designed to strengthen the servo horn splines.
Ahh, ok. My servo horn was mighty difficult to get on anyway. Can't imagine it would strip. I just wish I had the sort of clearance that you have! I even shaved a portion of my servo case but at full left, the turnbuckle gets caught on the servo case and binds up pretty badly.
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:03 PM   #17765
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They are talking about the larger blue one that slips over the spline area. I utilized mine. It is designed to strengthen the servo horn splines.
No, I am talking about the smaller one that goes under the ball stud. The large one that goes around the base of the horn is fine.

Depending on your servo, that small one will have be removed, or you might hit your case.
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:09 PM   #17766
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They are talking about the larger blue one that slips over the spline area. I utilized mine. It is designed to strengthen the servo horn splines.
I love the way that servo's top case fall falls away. It gives a ton of room for the horn with the small spacer to move past the case. I'm might have to find that servo.
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:41 PM   #17767
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Ahh, ok. My servo horn was mighty difficult to get on anyway. Can't imagine it would strip. I just wish I had the sort of clearance that you have! I even shaved a portion of my servo case but at full left, the turnbuckle gets caught on the servo case and binds up pretty badly.
I think its more so to keep it from cracking rather than stripping the splines.

Do you have a spacer between the servo mount and servo? If so, try taking it out? What servo?
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:45 PM   #17768
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Trying a different brand will be quite annoying, due to I bought a whole set of robitronic and changing the brand altogether would cost arou 100$ (just for the sound)

I rechecked everything and its way better now...I'll live with that for now (neither pinion nor gear looked worn or damaged, so I cant be that wrong)
I've bought several sets of different brands. Steel and aluminum. the black robinson alloy are probably the quietest when matched with kimbrough spurs. AE steel are also pretty quiet but heavy.
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:13 PM   #17769
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Ok guys maybe this has been answered before but I have read about 30 pages of the last pages but didn't find any info. I have a B5M CE that I plan to race on a medium size carpet track. I have not raced buggy in carpet before. My questions are: what are the advantages or disadvantages of the gull wing vs the flat arms? Also, are the laydown gearbox that much better than the 3 gear? Also what laydown gearbox seems to be better?

BTW this is my first 1/10 buggy in quite some time, racing nitro both on and off road for a long time. But I used to race electrics before.
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:02 PM   #17770
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Ok guys maybe this has been answered before but I have read about 30 pages of the last pages but didn't find any info. I have a B5M CE that I plan to race on a medium size carpet track. I have not raced buggy in carpet before. My questions are: what are the advantages or disadvantages of the gull wing vs the flat arms? Also, are the laydown gearbox that much better than the 3 gear? Also what laydown gearbox seems to be better?

BTW this is my first 1/10 buggy in quite some time, racing nitro both on and off road for a long time. But I used to race electrics before.



Flat arms make the steering more smoother and the Gullwings give you more aggressive steering thinking more turn in . Im assuming the disadvantage is from what ive heard from others is its to responsive .

I don't know about the laydown gearbox but 3 gear from using it on a other brand buggy on carpet its just good !
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:12 PM   #17771
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Heres my review of the B5M driving it for the first time all the races this time . It jumps good its very stable seems to like to be pushed harder . I'm coming from driving a Dex210 V2 for a while so its way different .

The things that need some tweaking is it has to much Rear grip where it gets pushy feels sluggish in the turns not enough rotation compared to my Dex210 V2 and wanted more steering/turn in also .

I did reduce the Rear camber, lower ride height 23mm, battery forward which started to help more . Had issues with the Ball diff and slipper getting it right think its good now though .
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:19 PM   #17772
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Heres my review of the B5M driving it for the first time all the races this time . It jumps good its very stable seems to like to be pushed harder . I'm coming from driving a Dex210 V2 for a while so its way different .

The things that need some tweaking is it has to much Rear grip where it gets pushy feels sluggish in the turns not enough rotation compared to my Dex210 V2 and wanted more steering/turn in also .

I did reduce the Rear camber, lower ride height 23mm, battery forward which started to help more . Had issues with the Ball diff and slipper getting it right think its good now though .
try moving weight forward. larger pinion/spur and close to the same gear ration and move the battery forward. Also, it seems to like a little more weight up front. Like the alum bulkhead and a full sized servo. and yes, the car has major rear grip. I run on clay slicks. And it can be hard to make it rotate. many locals are going to the laydown tranny. but again, srs is very high grip.
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:23 PM   #17773
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Originally Posted by ridgewaybodies View Post
I think its more so to keep it from cracking rather than stripping the splines.

Do you have a spacer between the servo mount and servo? If so, try taking it out? What servo?
I do have the spacers there. Good call, I'll try removing them. The servo is a futaba 9550 so removing the spacers may help my wiring issue as well!
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:27 PM   #17774
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
try moving weight forward. larger pinion/spur and close to the same gear ration and move the battery forward. Also, it seems to like a little more weight up front. Like the alum bulkhead and a full sized servo. and yes, the car has major rear grip. I run on clay slicks. And it can be hard to make it rotate. many locals are going to the laydown tranny. but again, srs is very high grip.



Yea the track i run on is Med traction with treaded tires for the most part but does get Tacky a little. The gearing im running is 81t/23t pinion , i did move the battery forward it did make the Rear more freer more steering which i wanted .

I have the alum Front hinge pin brace and a esc cap on top of the servo full size . One thing i haven't done is flipping the Rear ball mount to + 2 or less anti squat like 2 degrees.

The springs are good White/White 32.5 stock pistons .
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:51 PM   #17775
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Definitely looking like Low Pro is not the way to go with these kits. The clearance for the horn is just not there on most servos. Not to mention the modification needed for the wiring. I am going to try and find a good full size servo that has enough clearance.

In pictures, you can see that there is barely clearance on an old Futaba(tested on S3010 and S3305), but it does clear and would work better than the LowPros.

For the record, in the pics below you can see where it will hit on the servo with that small ball stud spacer in place. With the SAVOX 1252 it will rub on the top case without the blue ball stud washer in place, but just barely.
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Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-imag0577.jpg   Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-imag0579.jpg   Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-imag0582.jpg   Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-imag0585.jpg  
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