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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-11-2016, 11:58 AM   #17731
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I had the B5M (both rear and mid) when they first came out. I much prefer my Serpents (currently have two MM and one RM). Had a couple of BMAX-2's, still have a BMAX-4 (shelf queen now, replaced by the Serpent SRX4). Have the YZ4 (about half assembled). Had numerous others (original 22, B4.2, TeamC Etc.). So far I keep going back to the Serpents, but the 22 3.0 is very good; but my last race I had a ball cup pop off in the first minute of the main (and that has NEVER happened with my Serpents).
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Old 01-11-2016, 12:00 PM   #17732
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
I had the B5M (both rear and mid) when they first came out. I much prefer my Serpents (currently have two MM and one RM). Had a couple of BMAX-2's, still have a BMAX-4 (shelf queen now, replaced by the Serpent SRX4). Have the YZ4 (about half assembled). Had numerous others (original 22, B4.2, TeamC Etc.). So far I keep going back to the Serpents, but the 22 3.0 is very good; but my last race I had a ball cup pop off in the first minute of the main (and that has NEVER happened with my Serpents).
I was going to try the serpent, but honeslty they looked terrible at cactus last year. Since that is my home track, I took a pass. The B5m is a very good car. I really dont see any reason to switch.
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Old 01-11-2016, 12:51 PM   #17733
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Since my B5MFL is just out of the box, I can say the build and quality have been the best of any 1/10 I've had in 30 years. That being subjective of course, but having bought and now assembled a FL, it is worth the investment.

Out of the box the only issue has been a leaking shock oil bottle (Not shocking to discover this since they all seem to leak, by law.) and the binding CVA cups which was almost a joke at how easy it was to resolve the friction point with a drill. The shell did not have any oil on it.

Get your FL and race 17.5 stock and Primes. Buy some green slime for the shocks.

It's a steal for $230 or less at Tower using code/$20 factory rebate/free shipping.....No brainer.

Last edited by DeadstickDuck; 01-11-2016 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 01-11-2016, 12:58 PM   #17734
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I will post my pics of the FL as it looks assembled per instructions. Get her running on the cheap and get some stick time on the best 2wd practice machine for the buck.

$68 Trackstar 17.5T and 80A ESC combo
$34 Trackstar TS-920 Brushless HV Ti-MG
$34 A-spec Nanotech 2s4600 65/130C
$6 HK 3ch Rx
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Old 01-11-2016, 01:39 PM   #17735
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Default Front End Slop

Picked up a used roller - from a track employee, with nice upgrades, schelle hubs, ceramic bearings, etc...

The front shock mounts have a few millimeters of vertical gap/play and the front end is pretty sloppy in general. guessing the answer is aftermarket - schelle or avid here.

play coming from the steering bellcrank through to the steering blocks. typical? A lot more than my centro c4.2 has.

other than that, i have the car setup pretty dialed. right away, noticed the car lands so well and feels "smoother" than the centro, laps are a bit more consistent as well. - getting back to the track lately - i realize the centro is "old news"


thanks.
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:00 PM   #17736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hsp-sandiego View Post
Picked up a used roller - from a track employee, with nice upgrades, schelle hubs, ceramic bearings, etc...

The front shock mounts have a few millimeters of vertical gap/play and the front end is pretty sloppy in general. guessing the answer is aftermarket - schelle or avid here.

play coming from the steering bellcrank through to the steering blocks. typical? A lot more than my centro c4.2 has.

other than that, i have the car setup pretty dialed. right away, noticed the car lands so well and feels "smoother" than the centro, laps are a bit more consistent as well. - getting back to the track lately - i realize the centro is "old news"

thanks.
As far as the shocks, the play seems to generate in the composite cap itself. In regards to the steering, take the front off and check the screws that hold the steering bellcranks on. make sure they're tight but not binding. Give all screws a once over.
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:09 PM   #17737
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As far as the shocks, the play seems to generate in the composite cap itself. In regards to the steering, take the front off and check the screws that hold the steering bellcranks on. make sure they're tight but not binding. Give all screws a once over.
yeah, thats a good idea - to go through all screws in the steering. i don't think i have ever had composite caps - may have to spring for the aluminum ones.
guy pitted next to me on Saturday was running kyosho shocks on his b5 - everything was tight - they looked good too.

thanks.
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:23 PM   #17738
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With the gear diff for this buggy would I need to get a gearbox for the diff or a different motor plate ? I have the updated v2 gear boxes .
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:45 PM   #17739
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With the gear diff for this buggy would I need to get a gearbox for the diff or a different motor plate ? I have the updated v2 gear boxes .
Just the gear diff. Build it and slap it in.
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:12 PM   #17740
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Been running the associated for a year or so on indoor carpet track.
Was doing well, til the new breed of high bite cars started showing up.

Held my own for a week or so,but just can't get that sort of corner speed/rotation without traction rolling..

Figured I'd try a laydown tranny.. works very well, but 3d printed stuff just not as strong as molded oem plastic.. plus tolerances are off, creating a less than good spinning tranny.

Our local track, hard to find a b5m in mod or stock buggy , mostly yokomo, new xray or schumacher. . A few b5m with laydown ..
For high grip ya can't go wrong with the yokomo!! (Sorry associated, I defected).

Ya listening associated? I'd really love to go back to b5m and support American company!! But no interest in supporting the carpet crowd???
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:56 PM   #17741
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Just the gear diff. Build it and slap it in.



Ok i just ordered one not a fan of the ball diff still.
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:45 PM   #17742
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Trying to fit a servo into this chassis has been fun. Finally got a Savox 1252 in there, but it still hit the case on the way down. I went ahead and used my knife on the plastic of the tie rod to gain some clearance.
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Old 01-12-2016, 12:24 AM   #17743
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I just rechecked my pinion/spur mesh on my B5, SC5m and a collagues B5m and we noticed the clearnce between both isnt quite constant. Since the motor has quite a good concentricity it must be something on the spur gears side (spur gear? top shaft? bearings?).

Due to all 3 vehicles have this problem it's ahrt to set the gear mesh correctly. Any suggestions on how to get a nice, constant gear mesh that does not result in noisy cars?
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Old 01-12-2016, 01:05 AM   #17744
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I just rechecked my pinion/spur mesh on my B5, SC5m and a collagues B5m and we noticed the clearnce between both isnt quite constant. Since the motor has quite a good concentricity it must be something on the spur gears side (spur gear? top shaft? bearings?).

Due to all 3 vehicles have this problem it's ahrt to set the gear mesh correctly. Any suggestions on how to get a nice, constant gear mesh that does not result in noisy cars?
Best way to do it is to install a pinion 1 tooth larger than you intend to run and install it so that there's no gap between the pinion and spur. DO NOT RUN YOUR MOTOR WHEN LIKE THIS. Screw the motor in place and remove the pinion and then install the pinion you intend to run.

E.g. if you want to run 24T, install 25T first with no gap between pinion and spur and screw motor in place. Remove the 25T pinion then install 24T - do not move the motor for this step.
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Old 01-12-2016, 05:22 AM   #17745
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Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
I just rechecked my pinion/spur mesh on my B5, SC5m and a collagues B5m and we noticed the clearnce between both isnt quite constant. Since the motor has quite a good concentricity it must be something on the spur gears side (spur gear? top shaft? bearings?).

Due to all 3 vehicles have this problem it's ahrt to set the gear mesh correctly. Any suggestions on how to get a nice, constant gear mesh that does not result in noisy cars?
The AE spurs are often not round. Try the avid triad setup.
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