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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-10-2016, 11:50 AM   #17716
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What 3x1.3 piston is that? Didn't know associated made one..
Either typo (3X1.4) or home made by drilling out blank pistons?
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Old 01-10-2016, 12:47 PM   #17717
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Either typo (3X1.4) or home made by drilling out blank pistons?
Drill out with dremel? What bit gets the right sizes?
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Old 01-10-2016, 01:57 PM   #17718
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Drill out with dremel? What bit gets the right sizes?
No, and actual drill or drill press. You can also buy a set of drill bits that are that small. But I'm pretty sure I've seen a company selling 3x1.3 pistons if drilling blanks ones aren't your forte.
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Old 01-10-2016, 05:47 PM   #17719
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Yeah sorry i meant 3x1.4 lol
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Old 01-10-2016, 06:35 PM   #17720
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Why not just 2x2.3.....? Which is a 3/32in drill bit, very common to find.
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:11 AM   #17721
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Why not just 2x2.3.....? Which is a 3/32in drill bit, very common to find.
Because fluid dynamics.
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Old 01-11-2016, 03:37 AM   #17722
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I got through the first couple parts of the Champions Edition build last night.

Why do the CE supplement instructions call for 6mm ball studs on the steering rack with NO 2mm washers when the standard issue instructions call for 8mm ball studs with 2mm washers? Why did they change the stock Ackerman by taking away 2mm? That makes the steering less aggressive, but they don't give a reason.
I just looked at mine after reading this and the supplemental instructions do have the washers omitted. I keep scratching my head with some of the things they did with this car. I'm just going to replace the 6 mm ball studs in the steering rack with 8 mm ones, and put some 10 mm ball studs in the rear hubs with a lock nut to make sure that thing doesn't back out. They include them with the FL and the T5M, but not this car?
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:27 AM   #17723
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I just looked at mine after reading this and the supplemental instructions do have the washers omitted. I keep scratching my head with some of the things they did with this car. I'm just going to replace the 6 mm ball studs in the steering rack with 8 mm ones, and put some 10 mm ball studs in the rear hubs with a lock nut to make sure that thing doesn't back out. They include them with the FL and the T5M, but not this car?
the new kits have the nut, not the OG B5M.
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:31 AM   #17724
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Raced my b5m last night and the car was perfect except for exiting the corner i always lost rear grip suddenly right before i was about to get back on throttle. Whats an adjustment to fix that? Basically my setup is like this: purple avid front spring, 3x1.4 32.5wt middle, outside link inside on hub inside on tower.. Yellow avid rear spring, 2x1.6 30wt inside inside, link 2 hole hub outside and inside on inner ball stud. 3 deg toe 1 deg AS. 24mm 24mm. Running slicked dirt webs. Track is hard packed grooved indoor clay.
After looking at the spring rates and comparing them to the AE's, I think it is best that you back up your corner and by that I mean slow down sooner on entry. Then you can roll into the corner with a more stable car and drive off. That's the short term solution. In my experiences your front spring is pretty stiff for that oil/piston combo so what I'm envisioning is you are going in too hot, all the weight up there is plowing the tire into the corner and then when the tire regains traction its yanking the car around. I noticed this on my car also and I ended up backing up the corner in addition to a heavier oil up front. Another item of note is you are running slicks at 24mm. A lower ride height may be something to pursue.

Remember, We can only offer suggestions based on our experiences and you must design your setup around your abilities. Not Cavalieri's, Rivkin, Kinwald, Francis, Hirosaka, Hartson, Batman, WonderWoman, etc. So don't be afraid to practice and try different things.
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:17 AM   #17725
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I use the I don't remember what I'm running setup.
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:53 AM   #17726
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I use the I don't remember what I'm running setup.
Dude that is totally the same set up I run, funny it is not the greatest but changes are made constantly well I think they are changes because I really don't know what weight shock oil I had before
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Old 01-11-2016, 11:04 AM   #17727
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Having my mind set on a B5M FL for the upcoming season (starting here around april ) I was bored so I read tests about the XRAY and Yokomo 2wd's. Damn now I am thinking especially the Yokomo might be a good choice.
What would speak for the B5M instead of trying a new brand ?
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Old 01-11-2016, 11:15 AM   #17728
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Having my mind set on a B5M FL for the upcoming season (starting here around april ) I was bored so I read tests about the XRAY and Yokomo 2wd's. Damn now I am thinking especially the Yokomo might be a good choice.
What would speak for the B5M instead of trying a new brand ?
I had a bmax4 and I didnt care for it. The plastics are soft and the ballstud/cups were soft also. I replaced the studs and cups with TLR and that was better, but the car's plastics were soft and clapped out fast. I will stick with AE over Yokomo
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Old 01-11-2016, 11:45 AM   #17729
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The top brands are all good cars and completely podium capable (XRAY, YOKOMO, ASSOCIATED, LOSI, KYOSHO, SERPENT ETC.).

XRAY parts will be much higher priced than AE. If you race, local hobby shops are much more likely to have more AE parts on the shelf than any other manufacturer. Setup support is probably far greater for the AE platform. But you got to get what makes you happy.

I'm currently running a LOSI 22 3.0... but not sure it will replace my Serpent SRX2. I have a B5M FL NIB to put together to try in 17.5, but again not sure it will replace the Serpent. I have the XB2 Dirt Edition on pre-order... I enjoy the build part of the hobby as much as anything and just going to try them all LOL
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Old 01-11-2016, 11:52 AM   #17730
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The top brands are all good cars and completely podium capable (XRAY, YOKOMO, ASSOCIATED, LOSI, KYOSHO, SERPENT ETC.).

XRAY parts will be much higher priced than AE. If you race, local hobby shops are much more likely to have more AE parts on the shelf than any other manufacturer. Setup support is probably far greater for the AE platform. But you got to get what makes you happy.

I'm currently running a LOSI 22 3.0... but not sure it will replace my Serpent SRX2. I have a B5M FL NIB to put together to try in 17.5, but again not sure it will replace the Serpent. I have the XB2 Dirt Edition on pre-order... I enjoy the build part of the hobby as much as anything and just going to try them all LOL
trying them all is definitely fun. I try to do that less and less these days. So far, I have liked the B5m better than any other car I owned.
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