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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-03-2016, 05:26 PM   #17581
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Originally Posted by boucher View Post
So far, no, AE doesn't plan on it.

Reds Workshop, Anders Lind, AC Gear on Shapeways, and another guy on here are the options I know of.
Thanks! :-)
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Old 01-03-2016, 05:57 PM   #17582
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excuse my ignorance but whats all needed to run no anti squat? It seems the kit only allows down to 1 degree ,not zero. I believe I seen a C and D block, so a little confused. I like the B5M FL setup but would like to try no anti squat. Can you run zero anti squat with FL setup or do you need aftermarket parts?

Last edited by a1; 01-03-2016 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:03 PM   #17583
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Originally Posted by Slashn77 View Post
I would try a smaller pinion gear like a 30 because from what I understand the higher the pinion the more top end speed and higher motor temp usuallyso go down a few teeth on the pinion and get some of that low end power back.

However I have a hard time understanding which spur fear to pick like the 69 or 72.. I know that spur gear make much less of a different compared to pinion gears so if someone could explain that to me that would be greatly appreciated because I'm in the same boat on picking gearing going from a 8.5 to 17.5 class and I know in a stock class gearing is a huge park of it
From what I have read, spur size is all where you want your motor, further back with smaller spur, further forward with larger. Sometimes a 69 is too small for a certain gearing so you have to go to 72 so pinion hits spur. But gearing ratio is gearing ratio, different spur is just changing motor placement by a few mil.
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:07 PM   #17584
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excuse my ignorance but whats all needed to run no anti squat? It seems the kit only allows down to 1 degree ,not zero. I believe I seen a C and D block, so a little confused. I like the B5M FL setup but would like to try no anti squat. Can you run zero anti squat with FL setup or do you need aftermarket parts?
With the aluminum or brass C block there is a 3+0 option, 3 degrees toe and 0 degrees anti-squat. Other than that I think you need to get creative.
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:25 PM   #17585
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With the aluminum or brass C block there is a 3+0 option, 3 degrees toe and 0 degrees anti-squat. Other than that I think you need to get creative.
ok, thanks
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Old 01-03-2016, 08:51 PM   #17586
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From what I have read, spur size is all where you want your motor, further back with smaller spur, further forward with larger. Sometimes a 69 is too small for a certain gearing so you have to go to 72 so pinion hits spur. But gearing ratio is gearing ratio, different spur is just changing motor placement by a few mil.
That makes sense but it seem like even though the spur gear doesn't effect the driving as much I find it hard to believe that all its for is a mm or 2mm of motor placement so can someone please elaborate more and the difference between a 69 tooth and a 72 tooth spur gear
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Old 01-03-2016, 08:57 PM   #17587
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just wanna know if by badluck im the only one but i just sell my older b5m team kit and get a new one FL..start up the build.almost everything is ok but when was time to put rear 7mm hex..1 was oki the other one had no threads..so the screw cannot do is job lol...after that i got the same issue with one of the thumbs nut..no thread onto it...and got one nylon nut for shock without nylon...this car must have been buid at 16:45 on friday..i know this is no big deal..hex are like 10$ and thumbs nut 6$ and nylon nut few more but im just a little bit pissed off..should i contact associated or they're not gonna trust me on that..thx for your advice guys
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:22 PM   #17588
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In my experience, Associated has been great at replacing bad parts. Just email them or give them a call.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:27 PM   #17589
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just wanna know if by badluck im the only one but i just sell my older b5m team kit and get a new one FL..start up the build.almost everything is ok but when was time to put rear 7mm hex..1 was oki the other one had no threads..so the screw cannot do is job lol...after that i got the same issue with one of the thumbs nut..no thread onto it...and got one nylon nut for shock without nylon...this car must have been buid at 16:45 on friday..i know this is no big deal..hex are like 10$ and thumbs nut 6$ and nylon nut few more but im just a little bit pissed off..should i contact associated or they're not gonna trust me on that..thx for your advice guys
Its been like that for a little while. I was shorted a couple bearings in my CE kit. A buddy of mine was missing the flat arm front tower in his, and another guy at our track got a chassis with no holes drilled in the rear end.

Its a awesome car, but for some reason the QC over in Chinaland has been really missing simple stuff. Call AE and they should hook you up with the correct parts.
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Old 01-03-2016, 11:01 PM   #17590
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I bought a Associated Aluminum ball stud Rear mount and it has a plus 2mm and - 2mm I know its for Rear roll center so for Meduim traction clay should I use plus 2mm or -2mm for that traction ?
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Old 01-03-2016, 11:15 PM   #17591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slashn77 View Post
That makes sense but it seem like even though the spur gear doesn't effect the driving as much I find it hard to believe that all its for is a mm or 2mm of motor placement so can someone please elaborate more and the difference between a 69 tooth and a 72 tooth spur gear
You're correct, a tooth change on a spur isn't the same as a tooth on the pinion. Really it's about 3 teeth on the spur equals 1 tooth on the pinion....thus why there are only the two (69t and 72t) spurs for stock.

So a small gearing change, but yes changing spur gears really is for moving the motor a little bit.
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:06 AM   #17592
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
FL has been out longer, CE is more $ and comes with some stuff that some may not even use. It is also a limited edition kit that may not be available for much longer or at all depending on where its purchased. If you can get one for a couple bucks more i would do it.

FL comes with the B5 rear arms (forward swept for more weight over the rear)
CE comes with the original B5m rear arms
CE seems to be a Team Kit with some extras thrown in the box.
One page bevor your post someone stated, that the CE comes with the B5 Rear Arms.... someone's wrong
I looked through the manuals and it seems that you are correct, sir

The CE hast B5M rear arms!
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:08 AM   #17593
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There seems to be a lot of problems with tight ball cups. I have built a B5, B5M and a T5M. All had really tight ball cups. I put the ball in a dremel and put a dab of oil in it. Then spun the ball in the cup. Takes a few minutes to loosen. Messed a few up by using to fast of a speed, melted the cup.

What way do you use?
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:43 AM   #17594
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Check out the first post of the thread for tight ball cups. Basically you squeeze them with a set of pliers over the ball until the hole ovals a bit and they should loosen right up. You may need to do it a couple of times to get it to stick permanently. Annoying but easy to fix.
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:58 AM   #17595
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Check out the first post of the thread for tight ball cups. Basically you squeeze them with a set of pliers over the ball until the hole ovals a bit and they should loosen right up. You may need to do it a couple of times to get it to stick permanently. Annoying but easy to fix.
But from the looks of it, the lil reamer works way better!
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