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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-02-2016, 07:38 AM   #17536
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Any kind of comparison to a B5 or what to change to make the B5M more a "loose dirt kind of buggy". As above mentioned: 4gear transmission will be added to my list, anything else?

For very low grip days: Should I add a Saddle Pack? Normally I only use Shortys, but if it helps
In the winter its relatively cold where I am and our track is outdoor. To make matters worse we also water the track in the winter so traction is low. For low traction I run a B5M Lite with a 4 gear trans. The set up is close to stock. I changed the springs to black fronts and green rears with 25/22.5 oil....and 3 hole 1.3x3 pistons. I think the only unusual thin I did was run the 2 hole rear hub insert in the outside hole in the low position. I just started running a square pack and the car feels great but the heavy pack does make the car a little slower (I run a 17.5).

Last winter we ran the b5 and b5m all winter long and we all had better average lap times with the B5M. The B5M is faster on all surfaces but requires more tuning.
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Old 01-02-2016, 07:48 AM   #17537
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Nice to hear from someone who has driven both! I am not the expert in tuning, but will get there Thanks!
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:12 AM   #17538
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Default CE Shock Build

Whats Up All,
Just finishing up my CE build but ran into something. Has anyone else run into this, I'm screwing on my shock eyelets and have noticed, with the 2 limiters in, there isn't enough hole in the eyelets to get to the stroke length the manual asks for. Just me or known issue??? Any input is appreciated!!!!

Kevin
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Old 01-02-2016, 10:33 AM   #17539
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The stroke length is fine tuned by un-threading the shock eyelet up to 2 turns. My personal opinion is that the lengths in the manual are a mm or 2 long, unless you are running low grip on an 1/8 scale track. Look at a setup sheet for your surface and track size.
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Old 01-02-2016, 10:49 AM   #17540
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I ran the new car for the first time last night. It's a big difference going from 4x4 mod short course to 17.5 buggy. Anyway one thing I noticed was it had very little off power steering. I'm getting full steering lock to lock but the front end just doesn't seem to stick. What should be the first thing to change? It's set up box stock right now.
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Old 01-02-2016, 11:44 AM   #17541
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I ran the new car for the first time last night. It's a big difference going from 4x4 mod short course to 17.5 buggy. Anyway one thing I noticed was it had very little off power steering. I'm getting full steering lock to lock but the front end just doesn't seem to stick. What should be the first thing to change? It's set up box stock right now.
Tires. Car has lots of steering. Either wait for tires to break in or change tires.
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Old 01-02-2016, 12:16 PM   #17542
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Whats Up All,
Just finishing up my CE build but ran into something. Has anyone else run into this, I'm screwing on my shock eyelets and have noticed, with the 2 limiters in, there isn't enough hole in the eyelets to get to the stroke length the manual asks for. Just me or known issue??? Any input is appreciated!!!!

Kevin
I would say check your limiter size first. I thought I was using the correct size and when I check each limiter it was 1/2mm off. What I thought was 2mm was actually 1.5mm
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Old 01-02-2016, 12:17 PM   #17543
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Originally Posted by 65BAJA View Post
I ran the new car for the first time last night. It's a big difference going from 4x4 mod short course to 17.5 buggy. Anyway one thing I noticed was it had very little off power steering. I'm getting full steering lock to lock but the front end just doesn't seem to stick. What should be the first thing to change? It's set up box stock right now.
not enough info but i agree the steering is there you just got to tune it in.
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Old 01-02-2016, 01:55 PM   #17544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65BAJA View Post
I ran the new car for the first time last night. It's a big difference going from 4x4 mod short course to 17.5 buggy. Anyway one thing I noticed was it had very little off power steering. I'm getting full steering lock to lock but the front end just doesn't seem to stick. What should be the first thing to change? It's set up box stock right now.
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Tires. Car has lots of steering. Either wait for tires to break in or change tires.
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not enough info but i agree the steering is there you just got to tune it in.
Agree. Tires are always the first and foremost part to tune with.

We ran today, first "race" on the new layout and they didn't prep it. It was dry and dusty as hell. Had quite a bit of a push what we had earlier this week when we dialed the car in. We were running the kit set-up with 2 small changes. I ended up going to a short wheel base and the 2 hole rear hub insert mounted inside hole. Car rotated a ton better but not uncontrollably. May have even needed to go one more hole in, but we were fighting electronics all day. Found out that the controller was the issue.
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Old 01-02-2016, 02:07 PM   #17545
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Less push :
Front 45gr bulkhead will help a lot, also going from ball diff to geardiff, with 5000 oil, makes that the car has almost turn on power and going not to soft in oil and springs in rear, this in combo with the slipper tighter gives also more on power steering, and I leave the front 1mm lower than the back. Less rearward traction on power.

Last edited by Svendc; 01-02-2016 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:00 PM   #17546
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Default So this happened...

Was tearing my car down today and noticed the bottom two holes in the front chassis plate were cracked. Has anyone else had this happen to them?

I suspect I might be to blame here too as maybe I tightened them too much? The damage seems mostly cosmetic but I am going to swap it out anyway. Interestingly enough the top two screws are the exact opposite, instead of tightening them all the way it seems you have to just leave them "firm" because too tight and the front bumper buckles under the screw pressure. At any rate, I attached some pictures to show what I am talking about.

I love this latest generation of Associated cars but one complaint I do have is a lot of the screws don't give good purchase feedback when you are screwing them in. Seems sometimes they let you know when they are bottomed out and tight and other screws just seem to not tighten and lock which isn't very confidence inspiring and leaves you to wonder if it is tight or stripped.
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Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-img_3117.jpg   Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-img_3118.jpg   Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-img_3119.jpg  
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:21 PM   #17547
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Is that the lite chassis?
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:40 PM   #17548
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Is that the lite chassis?
Yes, it is from a Factory Lite car however I believe the front chassis plate is the same for all B5M versions, actually all the '5M' versions even. They all share the same part#91512 https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...chassis_plate/
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Old 01-02-2016, 11:07 PM   #17549
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Tower is showing the B5M CE as discontinued already. Well, that was quick!
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Old 01-03-2016, 12:16 AM   #17550
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Tower is showing the B5M CE as discontinued already. Well, that was quick!
Next B5m world's car... With other tower and lay down transmission😯 😁😂
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