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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:59 PM   #1741
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Xrings? You guys using kyosho?

Anyone been using the gear diff? If you are what diff oil?

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Old 03-07-2014, 09:30 PM   #1742
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bearing greese vs bearing oil which should i use building the kit?
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Old 03-07-2014, 09:57 PM   #1743
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bearing greese vs bearing oil which should i use building the kit?
Bearing oil and remove the seals in the transmission. Everywhere else leave them as is. Just my .02
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:04 PM   #1744
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http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...s/fixtools.htm I use this with motor spray. then one drop of oil. Just the way i do it..
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:43 PM   #1745
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Finished the roller tonight. Man, by the way some of you were talking about the ball cups, I was prepared for a fight. Turns out, it's no big deal. All I did was ChapStick the threads, and screwed them together. No drilling, taping, or reaming. Just thread and go. I can adjust all I want on the car and the cups are not popping off.

My only "issue" is the ball diff is NOT smooth. It's a bit notchy. I took it apart and re-did it several times. Same result. I'm hoping it will break-in. If not, that gear diff has my name on it.
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:48 PM   #1746
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I normally race 17.5 in my area but was waning to go ahead and throw in a mod motor I was seeing what's a good turn motor to run I was thinking 8.5 but was not sure if I should go 7.5 instead? My mod 4x4 I ran 6.5 just turned it down in my remote.
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:00 PM   #1747
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I normally race 17.5 in my area but was waning to go ahead and throw in a mod motor I was seeing what's a good turn motor to run I was thinking 8.5 but was not sure if I should go 7.5 instead? My mod 4x4 I ran 6.5 just turned it down in my remote.
Depends on the size track you have, for a smaller track an 8.5 should be more than enough. I know most of the team drivers run 8.0 pretty much everywhere it seems.
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Old 03-08-2014, 01:25 AM   #1748
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Comes in 12, 14 or 18ga
Thank you for making me not give up!!
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:02 AM   #1749
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Here's a bit of an odd question, I have a fair bit of fresh rubber mounted on b4.1 pin drive rear wheels, any chance that they will fit over the b5m drive pins with the hexes removed?
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:54 AM   #1750
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Pin wheels will fit over the drive pins but you would have to also use the axle spacer that goes behind the pin from the B4.
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:09 AM   #1751
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Finished the roller tonight. Man, by the way some of you were talking about the ball cups, I was prepared for a fight. Turns out, it's no big deal. All I did was ChapStick the threads, and screwed them together. No drilling, taping, or reaming. Just thread and go. I can adjust all I want on the car and the cups are not popping off.

My only "issue" is the ball diff is NOT smooth. It's a bit notchy. I took it apart and re-did it several times. Same result. I'm hoping it will break-in. If not, that gear diff has my name on it.
+1 on the ballcups w stock tie rods. Perhaps a running change or maybe something different with part cooling during manufacturing. Couldn't find my chapstick so they are dry for now! Haven't built shocks or diff yet. Skipped over messy stuff until today.
Only issues so far is manual call outs not matching a part or two with no suppliment sheet, and rear tower screws did not match lengths - one was 2mm shorter than the other. could be a user error though!
Tranny halves screwing in made snapping noises due to tightness.. we'll seeif the screws are in one piece today.


Kit build is probably the best ever for AE. Not much flashing to hassle with.

The biggest issue are the metric threads...my hand is tired from turning that wrench. Time for some power tools!
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:59 AM   #1752
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As far as the diffs not being smooth try sanding the rings with 800 grit wet and then 1000 grit dry. Clean off with brake clean assemble and break in. Diff in mine is super smooth with no slipping/barking.

I hear you on the metric threads. Love the fact that it feels so solid going together but man it gives your hands a workout lol.

On a sidenote, who's going to be the first to make a carbon plate chassis?
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:59 AM   #1753
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The MIP B4 Shaft will not work. This is a metric car and the b4 used the 3/16x3/8 bearings. You'd have better luck fitting a Kyosho RB6 top shaft with 5x12x4 bearings (which I am just speculating at, so no factual evidence this will actually work) or better yet, just get the AE B5 top shaft.
Yup b4 wont work and the rb6 wont work either, tooth count is different i believe and they use different bearings.
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:02 AM   #1754
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Finished the roller tonight. Man, by the way some of you were talking about the ball cups, I was prepared for a fight. Turns out, it's no big deal. All I did was ChapStick the threads, and screwed them together. No drilling, taping, or reaming. Just thread and go. I can adjust all I want on the car and the cups are not popping off.

My only "issue" is the ball diff is NOT smooth. It's a bit notchy. I took it apart and re-did it several times. Same result. I'm hoping it will break-in. If not, that gear diff has my name on it.
That's weird. Mine is like glass after several race days. Sanded the rings, broke it in and used ceramic thrust balls though ...
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:29 AM   #1755
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Originally Posted by Corners View Post
Finished the roller tonight. Man, by the way some of you were talking about the ball cups, I was prepared for a fight. Turns out, it's no big deal. All I did was ChapStick the threads, and screwed them together. No drilling, taping, or reaming. Just thread and go. I can adjust all I want on the car and the cups are not popping off.

My only "issue" is the ball diff is NOT smooth. It's a bit notchy. I took it apart and re-did it several times. Same result. I'm hoping it will break-in. If not, that gear diff has my name on it.
very common mistake is to overtighten the diff & dent a ring or flat spot a carbide diff ball. Also common to loose a bearing for the thurst bearing.

Disassemble and have someone with experience help.

The gear diff is the best choice if running on extreme high traction or carpet.

On clay the ball diff's performance is better by offering more traction.


BTW

No need for ceramic thrust , steel performs the same and has the same durability.

But you will need ceramic diff balls for their performance & extra durability.
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