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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-31-2015, 10:27 AM   #17491
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I use to do the same thing with multiple batteries but now that its pretty standard to charge at 20-40 amps you can charge a shorty pack in 5-10 minutes with no issues. I went from having 20 lipos a few years ago to only having 1 per car now. You just need to buy a good charger and then having 1 pack becomes a non-issue.
Which lipos are you charing at 20+ amps?
All that I have say a max charge rate of 2C. Which puts them 8-9 amps.

On another note, the rear sway bar. I tried the thinnest one and it made the car spin like a top on med-high traction carpet.
I tried adding the front brass bulkhead. That alone made the car push like a dump truck. Added the rear sway with it, thinking they might work together. Nope, spins like a top.

Without the brass or sway bars its good with a little under steer. That under steer is killing my corner speed.
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Old 12-31-2015, 10:53 AM   #17492
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I use to do the same thing with multiple batteries but now that its pretty standard to charge at 20-40 amps you can charge a shorty pack in 5-10 minutes with no issues. I went from having 20 lipos a few years ago to only having 1 per car now. You just need to buy a good charger and then having 1 pack becomes a non-issue.
When you get done running and then charge that high. Do your batteries get hot? I am always worried about my batteries getting too hot.
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Old 12-31-2015, 10:57 AM   #17493
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I charge at 30 amps and batteries never get warm for the most part I have temped them with a gun and never more than a 10 to 15 degree difference from ambient
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Old 12-31-2015, 11:31 AM   #17494
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Right now I'm really happy with the Protek 100c lipos with the 5mm bullets. Its kind of a bummer because I have a pile of good batteries with 4mm plugs. Anyway, I've been juicing batteries so long that it doesn't seem like a big deal. I did scale back to 30A from 40 simply because there's not a huge difference in time. Its really not a big deal. If you keep an eye on you're lipos its very safe. When I say keep an eye on your batteries....I mean the resistance, charge time, and the balance on the cells. If anything looks unusual its time for a new battery. If the batteries got unusually hot while charging I'd think there was a problem. Bateries are not as volatile as they were in the old days. I'm very strict about my lipos. There are other care items that help too such as never leaving batteries charged etc. It took me a while to learn how to take care of my lipos but now that I'm the program all of my B5Ms run great.

Edit: Just for the heck of it I'll pull a battery out of a B5M (notice the plugging of the B5M thread!) and I'll charge it and temp it before and after.....then I'll discharge it and do it again just for the fun of it.
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Last edited by QDRHRSE; 12-31-2015 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 12-31-2015, 12:12 PM   #17495
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For the guys running the Schelle hubs, which hole do you use?
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Old 12-31-2015, 02:07 PM   #17496
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For the guys running the Schelle hubs, which hole do you use?
inside hole +1 mm spacer underneath (equal to stock setting per the slip of paper from schelle included with the hubs).
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Old 12-31-2015, 02:26 PM   #17497
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On another note, the rear sway bar. I tried the thinnest one and it made the car spin like a top on med-high traction carpet.
I tried adding the front brass bulkhead. That alone made the car push like a dump truck. Added the rear sway with it, thinking they might work together. Nope, spins like a top.

Without the brass or sway bars its good with a little under steer. That under steer is killing my corner speed.
Next time try stepping the rear spring rate down one (ie white to green) with the same front. The total roll stiffness is: springs + dampers + sway bar. Your rear roll rate may have been too high compared to the front. That's the beauty of adding a sway bar. Can lower the shock sping rate, but at the expense of wheel independence. Or, in different terms, you can put enough roll rate stiffness (with the sway bar) without using shock springs that make the car bounce down the straight.
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Old 12-31-2015, 02:54 PM   #17498
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Buggy new guy question of the day. I see a lot of people attach the body with velcro on the side of the chassis. Is there a kit someone makes for this or is it just velcro off of Amazon or what?
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Old 12-31-2015, 03:01 PM   #17499
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Buggy new guy question of the day. I see a lot of people attach the body with velcro on the side of the chassis. Is there a kit someone makes for this or is it just velcro off of Amazon or what?
Amazon / Home Depot / Lowes / whatever...
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Old 12-31-2015, 03:06 PM   #17500
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The total roll stiffness is: springs + dampers + sway bar. Your rear roll rate may have been too high compared to the front. That's the beauty of adding a sway bar. Can lower the shock sping rate, but at the expense of wheel independence. Or, in different terms, you can put enough roll rate stiffness (with the sway bar) without using shock springs that make the car bounce down the straight.
Roll Resistance is springs + dampers + sway bar + roll center + center of gravity + total vehicle weight

All of these things have affect on the how much, how quickly, and when the car will roll in a corner.
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Old 12-31-2015, 03:34 PM   #17501
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Default New RC10b5m build (electronics questions)

I recently purchased a Team Associated SC10 RTR truck and have been racing it the past couple weeks at our local indoor clay track. Awesome fun!! and I have been learning a lot. Now I realized that I need a buggy!!! I purchased the RC10b5m kit (should be here Monday) and I need help picking out servo, ESC, and other electronics for it. Keep in mind I don't want to break the bank on my first build, however, I do want to race it. Any feedback and help, or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Also, can I bind my current radio and just purchase another transmitter for my rc10 or should I get a different radio now?
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Old 12-31-2015, 05:00 PM   #17502
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My b5m. Favorite car of all time so far.

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Old 12-31-2015, 05:26 PM   #17503
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[/QUOTE]Edit: Just for the heck of it I'll pull a battery out of a B5M (notice the plugging of the B5M thread!) and I'll charge it and temp it before and after.....then I'll discharge it and do it again just for the fun of it.[/QUOTE]


Its pretty cold here. I cycled a 4250 100c Protek battery a few times and the battery went from a low of 60 to a high of 72. I have pics but its pretty unexciting. I set the charger to 30A but it never went to 30 and moved down to 20 so quick I missed it with the camera. It took almost 9 minutes to charge the first time which is a lot.
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Last edited by QDRHRSE; 12-31-2015 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:25 PM   #17504
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Edit: Just for the heck of it I'll pull a battery out of a B5M (notice the plugging of the B5M thread!) and I'll charge it and temp it before and after.....then I'll discharge it and do it again just for the fun of it.[/QUOTE]


Its pretty cold here. I cycled a 4250 100c Protek battery a few times and the battery went from a low of 60 to a high of 72. I have pics but its pretty unexciting. I set the charger to 30A but it never went to 30 and moved down to 20 so quick I missed it with the camera. It took almost 9 minutes to charge the first time which is a lot.[/QUOTE]

what chargers are you guys using that will let you charge at that high of current

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Old 12-31-2015, 08:46 PM   #17505
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iCharger 408 and iCharger 4010.
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