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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:57 AM   #17401
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Running a 72t spur gear. 3 gear layout. The motor plate is brand new, doesn't appear to be bent. I have the pinion gear in as far as possible with the grub screw still being accessible.

On a related note, I noticed the spur gear has a tiny bit of inward/outward play in it. I noticed the Lite Edition instructions made mention of inserting a shim for the top shaft but the CE manual made no mention of this, so guess it's still needed there. This wouldn't have any affect on the placement of the pinion though, so it's not related to this particular problem I'm having.
I was curious about the play in my top shaft/spur as well when I built my B5M FL. Anyone have a part number or specs on the shim? Would be nice to take that play out a bit.

Thanks!
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Old 12-25-2015, 02:29 PM   #17402
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I had problems with my wing cracking after just the first day of racing with the B5m included wing (though having a SCT land on my buggy during practice probably had a lot to do with it..). I'm going to replace it with the Proline Trifecta wing which is much tougher, it worked great and lasted forever on my old B4. So hopefully a tougher wing and buttons instead of clips should vastly increase wing durability. Well that and me becoming a better driver.
Consider the Upgrade Rc 1/10 wing. It is thicker in certain and thinner in other areas which allows it to flex when you crash which helps fight cracking. I've a had few trifectas and they are super thick and heavy and almost brittle because they don't want to give and flex. Eventually the Trifectas will crack. Also, try trimming the wing way down for less drag, but also a longer life. Trimming it down with good round side support will allow it to flex. Overall I like the Upgrade RC wings with the variable thickness the best by far.
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Old 12-25-2015, 02:47 PM   #17403
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I had problems with my wing cracking after just the first day of racing with the B5m included wing (though having a SCT land on my buggy during practice probably had a lot to do with it..). I'm going to replace it with the Proline Trifecta wing which is much tougher, it worked great and lasted forever on my old B4. So hopefully a tougher wing and buttons instead of clips should vastly increase wing durability. Well that and me becoming a better driver.
After cutting the wing, use a dremel with a sanding drum to smooth the edges and round the corners. you want to sand off the cut marks and eliminate and hard corners, this is where the cracking starts. Oh and not crashing helps a lot!
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Old 12-25-2015, 04:05 PM   #17404
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Does anyone know if a 30mm fan waterfall will work with a jconcepts warrior body?
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Old 12-25-2015, 07:35 PM   #17405
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Originally Posted by Kalio View Post
I had problems with my wing cracking after just the first day of racing with the B5m included wing (though having a SCT land on my buggy during practice probably had a lot to do with it..). I'm going to replace it with the Proline Trifecta wing which is much tougher, it worked great and lasted forever on my old B4. So hopefully a tougher wing and buttons instead of clips should vastly increase wing durability. Well that and me becoming a better driver.


The wing that I found works really good for me is the Losi pre cut wings. I know, I know... But, they're thick and durable.
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Old 12-26-2015, 06:02 AM   #17406
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Was trying to find it under search but could not. Do you guys run spacers under the ball stud on the rear aluminum hubs? I see some of the setups have written down +2 mm when running aluminum hubs but i am assuming they are talking about the inner camber link? Thanks -Tim
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Old 12-26-2015, 06:33 AM   #17407
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Was trying to find it under search but could not. Do you guys run spacers under the ball stud on the rear aluminum hubs? I see some of the setups have written down +2 mm when running aluminum hubs but i am assuming they are talking about the inner camber link? Thanks -Tim

So basically on the setup sheets when they post in notes +2 that is referring to mm under hub ball stud?
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:38 AM   #17408
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So basically on the setup sheets when they post in notes +2 that is referring to mm under hub ball stud?
This is the manual from the AE website. 3mm below the ball stud on the hub is stock height. Not many setups indicate this changing, mostly the inner ball stud is what changes.

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...for-B5-B5M.pdf
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:48 AM   #17409
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Originally Posted by dirtdog View Post
Was trying to find it under search but could not. Do you guys run spacers under the ball stud on the rear aluminum hubs? I see some of the setups have written down +2 mm when running aluminum hubs but i am assuming they are talking about the inner camber link? Thanks -Tim
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So basically on the setup sheets when they post in notes +2 that is referring to mm under hub ball stud?
Actually reread what you were specifically asking...

Muck has the correct information in his post above. Most of the set up sheets I've seen use "back row / inside" and 3mm of spacers.

That set up should look something like my attachment.
Attached Thumbnails
Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-img_3078.jpg  

Last edited by duckhead; 12-26-2015 at 09:13 AM. Reason: Reading is hard :)
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:51 AM   #17410
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Default how to adjust front axle height ?

I got a set up sheet i am looking at and it calls for a "down "setting. I'm currently at the middle setting. I took things apart but did not see how adjusting is possible. The bushings seem to fit in only one way. What am i missing?
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:19 AM   #17411
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I got a set up sheet i am looking at and it calls for a "down "setting. I'm currently at the middle setting. I took things apart but did not see how adjusting is possible. The bushings seem to fit in only one way. What am i missing?
I think I was looking at the same setup sheet at one point and was scratching my head as well

The stock caster blocks can only be run in the "middle" setting best I can see. I don't even see a Factory Team optional bushing set.

To achieve a setting other than "middle" I think you need to run aftermarket bushings like these http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...hl1087/p403553
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:35 AM   #17412
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I think I was looking at the same setup sheet at one point and was scratching my head as well

The stock caster blocks can only be run in the "middle" setting best I can see. I don't even see a Factory Team optional bushing set.

To achieve a setting other than "middle" I think you need to run aftermarket bushings like these http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...hl1087/p403553
Ok, thanks . I was hoping I was not missing something a little more simpler.
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:39 AM   #17413
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Ok, thanks . I was hoping I was not missing something a little more simpler.
There is also an AE version:

http://www.speedrc.com/product/caster-bl-bsh-off-b5/
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:20 AM   #17414
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What difference does up, down or middle do to the car?
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:25 AM   #17415
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What difference does up, down or middle do to the car?
Link to bushings available from Schelle. Lightweight aluminum and come with standard and offset. Read explanation below on what axle up/down does.

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...ng-Set-SCH1087
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