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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-14-2015, 11:56 AM   #17251
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Originally Posted by onefast8 View Post
No shots... just awesome to see someone fly from the other side of the country and go.. oh wow... this is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay different.

I think we all know that if you have grip, ultimately you can wheel pretty much anything (more or less). Our tracks out here don't have anywhere near the grip levels... so your dialed setup there may have you doing donuts here (like he did )
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Old 12-14-2015, 12:35 PM   #17252
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
No shots... just awesome to see someone fly from the other side of the country and go.. oh wow... this is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay different.

I think we all know that if you have grip, ultimately you can wheel pretty much anything (more or less). Our tracks out here don't have anywhere near the grip levels... so your dialed setup there may have you doing donuts here (like he did )
A year of so ago, my daughter was racing outdoors on holeshots and ribbed tires. So lowish bite. When we moved and started doing indoor slicks, she found the transition to be fairly easy. But she was still tentative on the trigger pull. One night they over waters the track and everyone was doing donuts in the novice class, she was the only one able to drive on "ice". The other locals were way too used to throttle yanking. She beat guys/gal that normally put her down 2 laps. I just comes down to what you are used to. A couple weeks ago at srs they over watered by a LOT. The track had puddles everywhere. And puddles and slicks dont mix at all. She drove like crap. A year running indoors took away her softer throttle trigger. She normally wins novice/kids class these days, but finished dead last by 3 laps that day. I myself actually do better with slightly less grip. When traction drops and others complain, I start finishing much higher, lol. It comes down to driving style.
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Old 12-14-2015, 12:55 PM   #17253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
No shots... just awesome to see someone fly from the other side of the country and go.. oh wow... this is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay different.

I think we all know that if you have grip, ultimately you can wheel pretty much anything (more or less). Our tracks out here don't have anywhere near the grip levels... so your dialed setup there may have you doing donuts here (like he did )
I've always found going to higher grip an easier transition...maybe that's because anywhere I go is higher grip than my local track..
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:05 PM   #17254
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Originally Posted by Pinebox View Post
3D printing isn't as bad a you think. No, it sure isn't injection molded plastic like AE kit parts. But it's a great alternative for new ideas.


I've been running a 3D printed lay down trans since July. First the original 4gear on shapeways, then the 3gear I designed. No issues with either of them.
My 3gear has been awesome the past few weeks. My son will be getting it this week for more testing.
I run a 3D waterfall for a fan and they work, just don't love the feeling of the screw into them. When it hits the composite on the back side it starts to tighten.

Is there no way to engineer a lay down using the same holes of a 3 or 4 gear?
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:32 PM   #17255
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Originally Posted by Mason View Post
I run 34 and 35 on my B5M (original 4 gear). While it's possible they have altered the gear cover from 4 to 3 gear, it's unlikely that area would have been touched. Have you checked for a bent motor plate? Can you move the pinion down the shaft a little more? You could shim the cover out a smidge but unless you switch over to the fuel tube mounting method, the removal of the gear cover will get annoying.
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What are you running for a spur gear?
Running a 72t spur gear. 3 gear layout. The motor plate is brand new, doesn't appear to be bent. I have the pinion gear in as far as possible with the grub screw still being accessible.

On a related note, I noticed the spur gear has a tiny bit of inward/outward play in it. I noticed the Lite Edition instructions made mention of inserting a shim for the top shaft but the CE manual made no mention of this, so guess it's still needed there. This wouldn't have any affect on the placement of the pinion though, so it's not related to this particular problem I'm having.
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:55 PM   #17256
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I think I fixed the gear cover rubbing, basically just had to try and move the pinion gear inward a tiny fraction more. Not really looking forward to taking the gear box apart to shim the top shaft though, ugh. I'll deal with that later.
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Old 12-14-2015, 04:37 PM   #17257
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Originally Posted by Cridd View Post
I run a 3D waterfall for a fan and they work, just don't love the feeling of the screw into them. When it hits the composite on the back side it starts to tighten.

Is there no way to engineer a lay down using the same holes of a 3 or 4 gear?
I'm assuming you are talking about the holes to mount it to the chassis. Yes. Well, sort of.

All of them I have seen (including mine) use the existing 4 holes from the bottom near the diff. Then from there, it depends on the parts used.
For mine, you'll need to drill (2) new holes a bit forward of those holes to mount the front of the trans case. Then (2) more new holes a bit forward of the exiting waterfall screws to attach the new waterfall. A total of (4) new holes. This makes for the most secure mount and keeps everything where it's supposed to be.

I guess you could use just the (4) holes around the diff. But, it would let the entire case flex which could lead to cracks. I wouldn't recommend it.
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Old 12-14-2015, 06:26 PM   #17258
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How much lighter is the lite chassis compared to stock? The devil on my shoulder (BB) suggested I try stock class racing. I picked up a used (built but never run) b5m with a 3 gear. Curious if I should upgrade to the lite chassis.
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Old 12-14-2015, 07:18 PM   #17259
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How much lighter is the lite chassis compared to stock? The devil on my shoulder (BB) suggested I try stock class racing. I picked up a used (built but never run) b5m with a 3 gear. Curious if I should upgrade to the lite chassis.
Its about 28 grams lighter. I built my daughter's CE with the lite chassis and 4 gear tranny. Still waiting to run it for the first time. Sucks having a brand new car built and ready sitting for 3 weeks! Come on X-mas!
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Old 12-14-2015, 07:45 PM   #17260
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so what's yall opinion on running +4 width C mount?
Did it help drastically?

thanks

anybody? please
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:02 PM   #17261
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anybody? please
Never tried it. Interested though.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:03 PM   #17262
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Its about 28 grams lighter. I built my daughter's CE with the lite chassis and 4 gear tranny. Still waiting to run it for the first time. Sucks having a brand new car built and ready sitting for 3 weeks! Come on X-mas!
24 grams. I just weighed it. I have both sitting.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:18 PM   #17263
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I have a Novak GTB esc 1st gen its kind of big would it fit into the B5M chassis or do I need to cut something ?
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:42 PM   #17264
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You can, or get a real thin shim and add it in. you can reshim to tighten up.
Is Ballstud Washers, aluminum a good way to shim up instead of the plastic shims that comes with kit?
Or does anybody have any other solution to rear hub play?
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:51 PM   #17265
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Is Ballstud Washers, aluminum a good way to shim up instead of the plastic shims that comes with kit?
Or does anybody have any other solution to rear hub play?
I just use plastic but I know on the B4.2's they had an aluminum and plastic on each side of rear hubs.
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