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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-19-2015, 06:12 AM   #16816
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hey guys just curious what u guys think of the 3 or 4 gear tranny an which better to use on a med bite small tight track? what would be the advatanges and disadvantages? thanks
I would be interested to know this. I read the first page but still a little unsure on which way to go with the tranny.
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Old 11-19-2015, 06:23 AM   #16817
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Got a set of dirt webs, high bite indoor clay with 11 days on them. What is a good time to get new? Tires being most important, how many days do most use theirs before they replace?
It really depends on how hard you are driving them and your surface. Over time they will stretch and also the foam will get smashed up creating a cushy feeling. Saucing and level of use will speed up this process.

For myself, exclusively on slicks and depending on manufacturer, if I wanted to maintain a high level of performance I would be replacing tires after 6 to 8 race days. To maintain ultimate performance on the thin 2.4's probably closer to 3 events.

I ran my last set of tires what seems like 3 months.
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Old 11-19-2015, 06:24 AM   #16818
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Got a set of dirt webs, high bite indoor clay with 11 days on them. What is a good time to get new? Tires being most important, how many days do most use theirs before they replace?
Any time that I've run JConcepts stuff, the 3rd or 4th run (5 minutes each or so) is usually the fastest. Slow (only a tenth or two) before, and continues to get slower after the 4th run. At a big race, I'll have 3 or 4 sets broken in with 2 or 3 runs each ready for qualifying and mains.

Generally speaking for club racing, the tires aren't "bad" until you start to see a good amount of tread wear on them. They're definitely slower as I mentioned above, but only two or three tenths per lap. They won't start getting slick until the tread starts to wear significantly.

Just my experience...

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Old 11-19-2015, 06:52 AM   #16819
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Just to add to that unless you can run straight glue and go at your track you may not want to run brand new tires in your main, lest you get lapped by the one person you want to beat
Sheesh........One tire choice mistake and you keep bringing up lol. Bring it on Sunday
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:09 AM   #16820
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Got a set of dirt webs, high bite indoor clay with 11 days on them. What is a good time to get new? Tires being most important, how many days do most use theirs before they replace?
there's no right answer, but there's lots of wrong ones. The biggest thing is make sure you pay attention to lap times and how easy / hard the car is to drive.

but just to add, my track has very little tire wear so I'm running tires from last winter still. ( I don't race 10th scale from April to Oct so that skews it).
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Last edited by Bob Barry; 11-19-2015 at 07:26 AM.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:12 AM   #16821
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While all the advice that has been given is good I'd recommend changing tires as soon as you notice that your lap times are dropping more than everybody elses. Sometimes as layouts age your track will get blown out and everybody slows.....if you know your slowing down and your tires are well aged it might be a good time to replace. I would not put a time limit on it. You can clearly feel when your foams start to blow and when you start to lose grip.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:19 AM   #16822
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I still believe that the Lite kit out of the box is near perfect both from the perspective of weight and set up. Unless you run on SRS kind of clay or high grip carpet a box set up Lite is money right out of the box with average electronics. You other guys that are searching for magic, it doesn't exist. Unless your running the worlds a little slop is fine as long as everything operates smoothly and is bind free. Just listening to some of you guys for a few minutes could ruin a guys raceday before he even leaves the house. This is not NASCAR. Most of us need practice not stuff. For most of us, the guys that consistently win at our local track could probably do it with our cars....I know for sure that's true for me. My cars are in excellent shape but I don't rebuild them every week. It depends on the car but I probably go through each car every few months but I change shock oil and rebuild diffs as necessary which means that if a diff is smooth and the outdrives are ok it could last indefinitely......6 months maybe in a buggy.

RC Racing is supposed to be fun. Literally, 1 in a million can make living at it. Don't spoil it by taking the fun out of it.
I couldn't argue with this post, even if I wanted too. Well said.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:46 AM   #16823
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
hey guys just curious what u guys think of the 3 or 4 gear tranny an which better to use on a med bite small tight track? what would be the advatanges and disadvantages? thanks
I wondered this myself for a few months. I always preferred a push rather than a loose rear end so I just assumed 3 gear wasn't for me.
I would consider the places I drive to be med bite. Bar tires with liquid wrench, 17.5 buggy, 13.5 st and sc.

Finally, I tested the 3 gear out on 1 car... The next week my b5m, t5m and sc5m all had a 3 gear. I cannot say I noticed any grip loss whatsoever, just feels more natural to drive. I know this is a very generic way to describe it but honestly I don't know how else to describe the change.
Disadvantages: none as far as I can tell.
Advantages: More Punch and less heat are very noticeable.


Additional info for anyone on a budget:
Found a countersink at harbor freight for 99 cent on sale from 3$.
As long as you have the v2 4 gear such as t5m sc5m countersink the motor plate and switch the trans case. Works perfect.
Tip: put the diff back in so it would be in the same position as before and use the bottom idler, after the top shaft is flipped the wear pattern should be the same as before and should slightly slow down wear.
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:46 AM   #16824
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Is anyone running a carbonfiber motor plate? How much does it flex? Wouldn't it mess your gear mesh up?
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:08 PM   #16825
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great info on tires, much appreciated. Mine feel stretched, like there is air between tires and foams. If tires are 90% of set up I should get some more. I would rather have them on the good side. Funny thing is I will rebuild diff's, slippers, shock oil, etc. but tires I look at them and say....aahhh one more race .
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:23 PM   #16826
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Anyone having issues getting the pins in the rear axle?

I just got a b5m Lite and it seems like the holes are not drilled correctly where the pins go thru the CVA.
I used an old axle with the new CVA everything went together as it should.
Yup. Just built a kit, and both were bad. Had get replacements from LHS. Contacted AE.
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:25 PM   #16827
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Finished up a build and drove a B5M Lite today. Kit setup is so easy to drive. Was a real joy ..Loving 2WD Mod again
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:37 PM   #16828
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Finished up a build and drove a B5M Lite today. Kit setup is so easy to drive. Was a real joy ..Loving 2WD Mod again
I get that feeling. Scuffed the tires on asphalt for 7 minutes. Glad I live an hour and half to kustomrcgraphics.......waiting
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:57 PM   #16829
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anybody try the jconcepts spring steel cva set other then bling any changes in performance over stock?
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:13 PM   #16830
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I am more convinced that Associated releases their laydown tranny design from the Worlds cars:

http://www.neobuggy.net/2015/11/19/j...r-laydown-b5m/
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