Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
Any suggestions on what oil to run in a gear diff? I'm using 3000 right now but thought about trying 1000 or even 35-weight shock oil.
On a separate - but possibly related - note, my car is working well on a large and relatively loose track except for the middle of 3 long carousel corners. Right in the middle of each of these, the car wants to break loose unpredictably. Each of them are long, constant arcs when you're turning for 1-2 seconds. I thought perhaps the diff oil might be too thick and not letting the wheels turn independently enough in these sweeping corners and thus breaking loose at the slightest addition of throttle? The setup is essentially Cav's spektrum setup. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
On a separate - but possibly related - note, my car is working well on a large and relatively loose track except for the middle of 3 long carousel corners. Right in the middle of each of these, the car wants to break loose unpredictably. Each of them are long, constant arcs when you're turning for 1-2 seconds. I thought perhaps the diff oil might be too thick and not letting the wheels turn independently enough in these sweeping corners and thus breaking loose at the slightest addition of throttle? The setup is essentially Cav's spektrum setup. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (48)
"There is a line in terms of fluid thickness. Yeah you could put 300k fluid in the diff, and at that point there is not going to be enough traction to overcome the thickness of the fluid and you will essentially have no diff at all. With a fluid filled diff you have to have a balance of light enough fluid to get diff action, but thick enough fluid to prevent diffing out. What fluid this is depends on traction levels, and car setup. The thing that most people don't understand is fluid filled diffs are infinitely adjustable, but static in their operation. Ball diffs have a very narrow window of adjustment, but are dynamic in their operation. Basically as a ball diff tries to diff out, it inherently transfers more power to the loaded tire. A fluid filled diff does not do this, so you have to trick it into doing it by running a thicker fluid, but then the thicker fluid hampers the differential action."
That thread is here. http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/560394-gear-diff-vs-ball-diff.html
You can check petitrc.com http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associated/SetupSheetsAssociatedRC10B5.html
Look for a setup that has a gear diff, start with that fluid. You will have to adjust it for your own needs.
Here's a medium-high bite stock setup for you indoor guys to try. It's all stock oem kit pieces with the addition of the aluminum C & D for the extra tunability. Normally I try not to run stock but some days you gotta measure up the young'ns. This setup netted me an 18.3 this past weekend which I believe is about the fastest single lap on our current layout but also probably best overall average as well. I'm still playing with the front end to improve consistency but I figured somebody might benefit from it.
Front:
camber -1, toe 0
flat arms, flat tower
kick up 25, caster 5
3mm trailing, no bump steer spacers
axle middle, caster block centered
ackerman roughly 2mm (scrounged around various washers for this )
Shock Mount 2B, links 1B with 0.75 mm spacer (black plastic kit washer)
ride height arms level
Shocks -
3x 1.4 taper (rebound) drowned in 30 wt ASC on White Springs
all other shock parts/measurements are stock.
Rear:
Camber -1
Ride Height arms level
Links on 2B up with 1mm on inner link mount
Shocks mounted 2B
arm mount - 2.5 x 2 deg antisquat and 0.5 hub inserts
Shocks -
1.7 pistons drowned in 32.5 ASC with White Springs
I run an extra limiter and back out the eyelet 1 turn to get back to stock travel.
Tires are JConcepts Smoothies w/ included dirt tech foams rolling on Bullet rims. Lately spreading some WD40 thinly on the tires then following with SXT 3.0.
Battery is Reedy 4100 shorty all the way back in the tray.
Tekin RS with Reedy Mach 2 running 31 deg timing with 35 pinion and 72 spur. Of course you'll need to adjust for your layout.
Track is 118x46, medium speed with one straight of 80something feet into a long sweeper. Both speedo and motor coming off at 125-130f.
Ball diff at standard settings and stock clutch.
video of the track can be seen - https://www.youtube.com/user/NewRedHobbies/ and also at this unfortunately nasty link - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4m...mwQ0mgw/videos
I will probably try bumping the front oil up to 32.5 looking for a little less dive and might even convert the rear to 3 x 1.4s for shtis and giggles.
Let me know if I've forgotten any other important bits of info.
ps.. no I have not scaled it in any fashion but according to just about everyone on here this thing is a pig!
good luck.
Front:
camber -1, toe 0
flat arms, flat tower
kick up 25, caster 5
3mm trailing, no bump steer spacers
axle middle, caster block centered
ackerman roughly 2mm (scrounged around various washers for this )
Shock Mount 2B, links 1B with 0.75 mm spacer (black plastic kit washer)
ride height arms level
Shocks -
3x 1.4 taper (rebound) drowned in 30 wt ASC on White Springs
all other shock parts/measurements are stock.
Rear:
Camber -1
Ride Height arms level
Links on 2B up with 1mm on inner link mount
Shocks mounted 2B
arm mount - 2.5 x 2 deg antisquat and 0.5 hub inserts
Shocks -
1.7 pistons drowned in 32.5 ASC with White Springs
I run an extra limiter and back out the eyelet 1 turn to get back to stock travel.
Tires are JConcepts Smoothies w/ included dirt tech foams rolling on Bullet rims. Lately spreading some WD40 thinly on the tires then following with SXT 3.0.
Battery is Reedy 4100 shorty all the way back in the tray.
Tekin RS with Reedy Mach 2 running 31 deg timing with 35 pinion and 72 spur. Of course you'll need to adjust for your layout.
Track is 118x46, medium speed with one straight of 80something feet into a long sweeper. Both speedo and motor coming off at 125-130f.
Ball diff at standard settings and stock clutch.
video of the track can be seen - https://www.youtube.com/user/NewRedHobbies/ and also at this unfortunately nasty link - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4m...mwQ0mgw/videos
I will probably try bumping the front oil up to 32.5 looking for a little less dive and might even convert the rear to 3 x 1.4s for shtis and giggles.
Let me know if I've forgotten any other important bits of info.
ps.. no I have not scaled it in any fashion but according to just about everyone on here this thing is a pig!
good luck.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
Any suggestions on what oil to run in a gear diff? I'm using 3000 right now but thought about trying 1000 or even 35-weight shock oil.
On a separate - but possibly related - note, my car is working well on a large and relatively loose track except for the middle of 3 long carousel corners. Right in the middle of each of these, the car wants to break loose unpredictably. Each of them are long, constant arcs when you're turning for 1-2 seconds. I thought perhaps the diff oil might be too thick and not letting the wheels turn independently enough in these sweeping corners and thus breaking loose at the slightest addition of throttle? The setup is essentially Cav's spektrum setup. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
On a separate - but possibly related - note, my car is working well on a large and relatively loose track except for the middle of 3 long carousel corners. Right in the middle of each of these, the car wants to break loose unpredictably. Each of them are long, constant arcs when you're turning for 1-2 seconds. I thought perhaps the diff oil might be too thick and not letting the wheels turn independently enough in these sweeping corners and thus breaking loose at the slightest addition of throttle? The setup is essentially Cav's spektrum setup. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
2. A ball diff will be measurably faster on a loose track
3. Cav's setup for spekrum was for a high to high bite track, with a ball diff. Why are you running this setup?
Your issue sounds like maybe a problem with the car that we won't be able to diagnose here on the forums. Could be bad foams, bad glue job, worn out-drives, who knows.
Suspended
Soon to be ready for the track.
For more pics go to facebook
ASSOCIATED B5M PROTO TEAM
Jerzi
For more pics go to facebook
ASSOCIATED B5M PROTO TEAM
Jerzi
EDIT: Sorry, thought this was a b44.3 question. ignore my previous post.
Last edited by Razathorn; 12-29-2014 at 08:43 AM.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (23)
Thanks for the suggestions regarding the gear diff and sweeper issues I've had.
I like the gear diff because our track can be super sticky sometimes, but it can turn into an ice rink over the course of 8+ hours of racing. I'm going to put the ball diff in and test that out and see what difference it makes for the long sweeping turns...
I like the gear diff because our track can be super sticky sometimes, but it can turn into an ice rink over the course of 8+ hours of racing. I'm going to put the ball diff in and test that out and see what difference it makes for the long sweeping turns...
Thanks for the suggestions regarding the gear diff and sweeper issues I've had.
I like the gear diff because our track can be super sticky sometimes, but it can turn into an ice rink over the course of 8+ hours of racing. I'm going to put the ball diff in and test that out and see what difference it makes for the long sweeping turns...
I like the gear diff because our track can be super sticky sometimes, but it can turn into an ice rink over the course of 8+ hours of racing. I'm going to put the ball diff in and test that out and see what difference it makes for the long sweeping turns...
Dog, what tires/inserts and traction level are you running on? This may be just a simple issue of a bump in the surface and the front end gripping hard yanking the back around.
No, I'm breaking driveshafts. And no it's not after catastrophic crashes. On my drive shafts you can see what I can only analogize to the marks of an axe on a tree, slowly overtime it looks as tho the edge of the out drive cup is hitting the shaft and eventually it's hit so many times it breaks, I'd take a pic but it's on in my car at the moment.
The Cups if the Geardiff are longer.
I dremeled a little out if the cups, there is a sharp edge
made that flat and use two .8mm shims to limit the shock compression
Those go inbetween the Spring cup and the shock body
No issue since i did that
But Ball diif is not an option for me.... bumpy High Grip carpet track running an LRP Dynamic 10 4 pole 4800KV. Ball diff does break more often then the dogbones
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
Same issue here with the gear diff...
The Cups if the Geardiff are longer.
I dremeled a little out if the cups, there is a sharp edge
made that flat and use two .8mm shims to limit the shock compression
Those go inbetween the Spring cup and the shock body
No issue since i did that
But Ball diif is not an option for me.... bumpy High Grip carpet track running an LRP Dynamic 10 4 pole 4800KV. Ball diff does break more often then the dogbones
The Cups if the Geardiff are longer.
I dremeled a little out if the cups, there is a sharp edge
made that flat and use two .8mm shims to limit the shock compression
Those go inbetween the Spring cup and the shock body
No issue since i did that
But Ball diif is not an option for me.... bumpy High Grip carpet track running an LRP Dynamic 10 4 pole 4800KV. Ball diff does break more often then the dogbones
Anybody know why B5Ms are back ordered everywhere? Is there a problem at associated?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
That said... Absolutehobbyz has them in stock
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
So generally, what turn motor do people run in 2wd buggy on indoor clay tracks? And what brand motors do most recommend?