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Old 11-17-2015, 01:45 PM   #16786
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My question is that the minimum weight for mod buggy is 1500g. I am torn if I should go with the Factory Lite or the Champions Edition? Will I miss having the extra weight of the Champions Edition or would the Factory Lite be a better choice because the car will be closer to the minimum weight?
You want to run whatever overall weight gives you the level of traction you desire at your track. More weight, equals more traction. If you're already on a really high traction surface, having a buggy that is too heavy, can lead to a situation where in order to keep yourself from traction rolling, you have to run the car too low to perform well on jumps.

If you're on a lower traction surface where the car will be doing as much sliding as rolling, a heavier car may produce enough traction to benefit your lap times.

The trade off with more weight, is of course a more lethargic car that doesn't accelerate, brake, or change direction as fast.

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It's not about weight. It's about flex.
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Weight doesn't matter as much in modified as it does in stock.
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A smooth track = light buggy, A bumpy track = heavy car
yield=
Sorry guys, but this is total non-sense. How much your buggy weighs is a VERY important piece of the tuning puzzle when you're dialing in your car's setup, REGARDLESS of whether you're running a faster motor, or a slower motor.

Some people want less traction and a car that is very aggressive feeling that can change direction very quickly. Some people like a heavier car that is super easy to drive, way more forgiving, with a lot of traction. And some people (like me) like my car somewhere in the middle. I run my car at ~1570, because I prefer to have a car that generates more mechanical traction, that is slightly easier to drive. I then dial out the car's tendency to traction roll through roll resistance changes.

The light car's chassis DOES give more flex, but the kit in general is also about bringing the overall weight of the car down. The original kit is pretty heavy, which required you run a bunch of light weight parts even to get the car down into the mid 1500s. The light kit gets you a lot closer without having to spend extra money.
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:49 PM   #16787
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Thanks for the replies. Yes I've thought about my desire to remove the slop at this point. Due to the position of the variability the movement is amplified by the time the steering is affected. Am determined to minimise as much as achievable.

I have ordered the exotek AE aluminum servo arm. As it has a clamping attachment it will be easier to lockdown. I really like the fact that it is designed with the exact dimensions of the stock arms. My OCD in me doesn't like having to add subtrim. This servo arm is 4mm shorter than the one I'm using. Fingers crossed for 0 subtrim.

In regards to the jconcepts servo mount, I decided against picking one up. I thought about it and will replace the washers with star lock washers. Even though I doubt the servo moves often ( really big hits excluded) the star washers will assist in locking the servo in place. The stock servo mounts are more than acceptable. Also don't want to add any more weight to the front of the vehicle as traction can be a bit low at times in Oz.
I think you are overthinking the slop in the steering thing to much. If you want responsive snappy steering, you would get aluminum bellcranks, rack, and horn. You can tune with those. The screw should always be tightened down all the way no matter what.

Never heard of someone using a locking washer on the servo. Just some blue locktight and the right length screw works unless you are crashing a lot. Could have just been loose from the start. Better safe than sorry though.
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:00 PM   #16788
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
You want to run whatever overall weight gives you the level of traction you desire at your track. More weight, equals more traction. If you're already on a really high traction surface, having a buggy that is too heavy, can lead to a situation where in order to keep yourself from traction rolling, you have to run the car too low to perform well on jumps.

If you're on a lower traction surface where the car will be doing as much sliding as rolling, a heavier car may produce enough traction to benefit your lap times.

The trade off with more weight, is of course a more lethargic car that doesn't accelerate, brake, or change direction as fast.






Sorry guys, but this is total non-sense. How much your buggy weighs is a VERY important piece of the tuning puzzle when you're dialing in your car's setup, REGARDLESS of whether you're running a faster motor, or a slower motor.

Some people want less traction and a car that is very aggressive feeling that can change direction very quickly. Some people like a heavier car that is super easy to drive, way more forgiving, with a lot of traction. And some people (like me) like my car somewhere in the middle. I run my car at ~1570, because I prefer to have a car that generates more mechanical traction, that is slightly easier to drive. I then dial out the car's tendency to traction roll through roll resistance changes.

The light car's chassis DOES give more flex, but the kit in general is also about bringing the overall weight of the car down. The original kit is pretty heavy, which required you run a bunch of light weight parts even to get the car down into the mid 1500s. The light kit gets you a lot closer without having to spend extra money.
Faster motor and slower motor is total generic nonsense. Everyone knows that overall rpm equals power!

I won't repeat myself when I know the facts
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:51 PM   #16789
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Who has run the +4 mount on carpet. How much of a difference does it actually make?
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Old 11-17-2015, 03:24 PM   #16790
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PL PHANTOM fits great with the shapeways fan mount.
Well that's awfully strange because mine does not and I can guarantee I'm smart enough to know that it doesn't lol
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:05 PM   #16791
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how long is a set of shock springs good for, 10 track days, 100 track days, forever?
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:08 PM   #16792
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Faster motor and slower motor is total generic nonsense. Everyone knows that overall rpm equals power!

I won't repeat myself when I know the facts
I can't for the life of me figure out what your talking about. But im glad you know the facts.
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:19 PM   #16793
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I still believe that the Lite kit out of the box is near perfect both from the perspective of weight and set up. Unless you run on SRS kind of clay or high grip carpet a box set up Lite is money right out of the box with average electronics. You other guys that are searching for magic, it doesn't exist. Unless your running the worlds a little slop is fine as long as everything operates smoothly and is bind free. Just listening to some of you guys for a few minutes could ruin a guys raceday before he even leaves the house. This is not NASCAR. Most of us need practice not stuff. For most of us, the guys that consistently win at our local track could probably do it with our cars....I know for sure that's true for me. My cars are in excellent shape but I don't rebuild them every week. It depends on the car but I probably go through each car every few months but I change shock oil and rebuild diffs as necessary which means that if a diff is smooth and the outdrives are ok it could last indefinitely......6 months maybe in a buggy.

RC Racing is supposed to be fun. Literally, 1 in a million can make living at it. Don't spoil it by taking the fun out of it.
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:29 PM   #16794
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how long is a set of shock springs good for, 10 track days, 100 track days, forever?
Didnt think they went bad???
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:02 PM   #16795
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I still believe that the Lite kit out of the box is near perfect both from the perspective of weight and set up.
Well said. I'm in the middle of building my first B5M lite, and am getting a little anal about perfectly smooth bearings, extra flashing, no slop, etc., but glad to hear with some solid electronics this thing will work out of the box.

It's amazing how good out of the box today's kits are getting. At least the American stuff is all geared towards high bite indoor tracks, which is what I run on locally.
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:16 PM   #16796
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I can't for the life of me figure out what your talking about. But im glad you know the facts.
You're fine that's how it was told to me so except it. Most top level or even mediocre enthusiasts don't just give/loan you their r/c model to hardcore thrash you would have to ask
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:28 PM   #16797
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Didnt think they went bad???
They will fatigue over time. The constant compression will fatigue the wire over time. Now how quick that happens, that's up for debate. I'm sure there's an Internet hero that will give you some exact answer. I play it by ear and replace springs depending on how much I run, but I'll replace mine once or twice a year, depending on how much I'm using any particular set.
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:39 PM   #16798
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You're fine that's how it was told to me so except it. Most top level or even mediocre enthusiasts don't just give/loan you their r/c model to hardcore thrash you would have to ask
Huh?
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:49 PM   #16799
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They will fatigue over time. The constant compression will fatigue the wire over time. Now how quick that happens, that's up for debate. I'm sure there's an Internet hero that will give you some exact answer. I play it by ear and replace springs depending on how much I run, but I'll replace mine once or twice a year, depending on how much I'm using any particular set.
I generally run different springs and such so I guess I havnt actually worn a set out yet. I would say replacing the springs every season wouldnt be a bad idea. I mean they are only 4 bucks a set, and if you for instance only use white rears all the time then I guess it could wear out and deform and need to be replaced. Makes sense
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:52 PM   #16800
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Well that's awfully strange because mine does not and I can guarantee I'm smart enough to know that it doesn't lol
Its not a measure of someones intelligence, its just we appear to be running different fan mounts and fortunately the one I use from Shapeways (of which there are a few different varieties) fortunately accommodates the Pro Line Phantom body rather nicely.

Fan Mount Results
For those that are interested I achieve a reduction in temperature of around 20dC/68d F for each 5 minute run, net 52dC /125dF (Running 6.5T Boosted, 20T Pinion/81T Spur indoors on carpet,ambient temp approx 25d.
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