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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:29 PM   #16711
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So let me get this straight. People are now running their B5Ms without the ~3 gram battery strap and noticing that their cars are turning better? wut
I haven't tried this myself, but its not from the weight savings...its supposedly from the chassis flex.

Having run a lot of on-road TC and 1/12th scale, chassis flex and tweak make a huge difference on how those cars handle. Back out a couple of screws on the top deck of a touring car, and you have a totally different driving car.

I can see how it could be possible, but I haven't tried it for myself to confirm or deny...

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Old 11-12-2015, 04:38 PM   #16712
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There are lots of people running the 6270 in B5M's around here. That or 6240's. It can help with both of them to simply cut off the rubber boot around the end of the connector going into the servo. Then, there is actually more room than any other servo.

There's no way just cutting the boot off makes that much room? I slid mine off and was still not able to get it in there. Sure, if you want to kink the crap out of the wire and have it fail in a month sure, but to do it right, they wont fit.
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Old 11-12-2015, 05:05 PM   #16713
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Just an FYI for folks on the titanium issue....bulk titanium is somewhere around 10X the cost of most aluminum alloys and the same can be said for steel alloys as well. This relationship in price is about what it was 15 years ago when I was looking into this as well. Titanium is abundant but still fairly expensive. The big difference in the final machined parts is partly due to this cost but also due to the difficulty in machining. Aluminum is a breeze to machine. Talk to most machinists with experience working with Titanium and they will tell you it is a pain to work with.
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Old 11-12-2015, 05:33 PM   #16714
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There's no way just cutting the boot off makes that much room? I slid mine off and was still not able to get it in there. Sure, if you want to kink the crap out of the wire and have it fail in a month sure, but to do it right, they wont fit.
Regardless, sucks to have to cut up a brand new servo to "make" it fit.
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:22 PM   #16715
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Regardless, sucks to have to cut up a brand new servo to "make" it fit.
I have been running a 6040 in my B5M since day one, about a year so far. I cut back the boot for the wires and I also ground down the corner of the servo mount. Not one problem. I dont mind a little cutting and grinding. Back in the RC10 days everything had to be hand fitted, custom made or taken from another car to get what you want. That is what this hobby is based off of.
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:37 PM   #16716
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I have been running a 6040 in my B5M since day one, about a year so far. I cut back the boot for the wires and I also ground down the corner of the servo mount. Not one problem. I dont mind a little cutting and grinding. Back in the RC10 days everything had to be hand fitted, custom made or taken from another car to get what you want. That is what this hobby is based off of.
6240, NOT 6040...

https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/...odID=SPMSS6240

Love the disconnect feature, but not that it doesn't fit in anything.

FWIW I'm running a 6240 in my T4 2016, but the plug side hangs off the chassis so more than enough room.
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:47 PM   #16717
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6240, NOT 6040...

https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/...odID=SPMSS6240

Love the disconnect feature, but not that it doesn't fit in anything.

FWIW I'm running a 6240 in my T4 2016, but the plug side hangs off the chassis so more than enough room.
Someone mentioned 6040 above so that is why I replied. The 6240 is cool, but why would you need it? I never wished I could remove the servo and not the wire. What we need to see the manufacturers do is make it so we can move the servo wire to come out where we need it, whether it be right or left, top or bottom or out the back.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:53 PM   #16718
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Thoughts on gearing and timing for a Reedy 17.5 M3 short stack blinky w HW V3.1 stock spec? Do these motors like to be run with lots of timing and shorter gearing, I thought I read something about that...
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:56 AM   #16719
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I'm running the Mach3 17.5 short stack in mine right now. My car is a bit on the porky side at this point and I still have it geared 34/68 with 45 of can timing. The motor has great snap throughout the powerband and runs cool. There are a couple of turns on our track where I can just lift the front end getting back on throttle. I've got a WTF Windy fan on it right now but before I got the fan I couldn't get the motor temp much over 120. Makes me wonder why I got the fan...
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:01 AM   #16720
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Just an FYI for folks on the titanium issue....bulk titanium is somewhere around 10X the cost of most aluminum alloys and the same can be said for steel alloys as well. This relationship in price is about what it was 15 years ago when I was looking into this as well. Titanium is abundant but still fairly expensive. The big difference in the final machined parts is partly due to this cost but also due to the difficulty in machining. Aluminum is a breeze to machine. Talk to most machinists with experience working with Titanium and they will tell you it is a pain to work with.
That right there! ^ +10,000 it's a B%^&h to work with! Brass is also amazing to work with! Titanium not so much!
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:21 AM   #16721
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
Someone mentioned 6040 above so that is why I replied. The 6240 is cool, but why would you need it? I never wished I could remove the servo and not the wire. What we need to see the manufacturers do is make it so we can move the servo wire to come out where we need it, whether it be right or left, top or bottom or out the back.
Agree. I've had a couple instances recently when I needed to remove my servo from my TC but the receiver was buried, so it was nice to have the disconnect plug. The 6040 was a good servo and has now been discontinued and replaced by the 6240...I bet most have bought it assuming it's a standard servo as the photos online don't show the plug. Yeah yeah, it's in the description, but how do you know what size it is?
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:24 AM   #16722
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
Someone mentioned 6040 above so that is why I replied. The 6240 is cool, but why would you need it? I never wished I could remove the servo and not the wire. What we need to see the manufacturers do is make it so we can move the servo wire to come out where we need it, whether it be right or left, top or bottom or out the back.
Some MFG's give you so much wire I just hate coiling it or putting it in a tie wrap. So much neater with different length's that are just long enough to plug into the receiver.
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:34 AM   #16723
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Some MFG's give you so much wire I just hate coiling it or putting it in a tie wrap. So much neater with different length's that are just long enough to plug into the receiver.
Something I do on my Airtronics 94661 servo is take the back cover off and feed the excess wire into an empty cavity inside the servo. And only have enough wire coming out to reach the receiver. No cutting/resoldering and if I need to use this in another car, just pull out the wire.
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:43 AM   #16724
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Some MFG's give you so much wire I just hate coiling it or putting it in a tie wrap. So much neater with different length's that are just long enough to plug into the receiver.
I did this a few months ago.

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Something I do on my Airtronics 94661 servo is take the back cover off and feed the excess wire into an empty cavity inside the servo. And only have enough wire coming out to reach the receiver. No cutting/resoldering and if I need to use this in another car, just pull out the wire.
Another great alternative to soldering, cutting, crimping, etc...Thanks!
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:09 AM   #16725
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Just an FYI for folks on the titanium issue....bulk titanium is somewhere around 10X the cost of most aluminum alloys and the same can be said for steel alloys as well. This relationship in price is about what it was 15 years ago when I was looking into this as well. Titanium is abundant but still fairly expensive. The big difference in the final machined parts is partly due to this cost but also due to the difficulty in machining. Aluminum is a breeze to machine. Talk to most machinists with experience working with Titanium and they will tell you it is a pain to work with.
Yep. That is why there are ONLY a few shops in the USA that will mess with it; Lunsford being one of them. As I said in my posts, the tooling cost for titanium is just insane.
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