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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:11 AM   #16636
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What advantage are you guys seeing from not running a battery strap? More flex? Better handling?
Consistency.

QDRHRSE didn't notice a difference because he's not a noob that cranks the battery down as hard as possible.

Not running the strap allows you to get rid of a binding point. I noticed with a strap and gorilla locking the battery down, you can bind the chassis up pretty bad. When doing certain mods that allow flex, you can also lead to the strap popping out.

You also lose the strap when you run certain fan setups.

There's a few reasons why certain people don't run it. It still hasn't been talked about, I think, but the world champ does not use a battery strap.
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:41 AM   #16637
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That's very true. I run the battery strap pretty loose. Still, making sure the cradle is completely separated and not too tight either will allow for a lot of flex even with a strap. I'm really consistent but not so fast. I'm definitely not pushing my cars to the limit.
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:59 AM   #16638
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Interesting. Thanks for the input and MAYBE ill give it a try!!!!
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:50 AM   #16639
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just when I thought I was out.... they sucked me back in.....

B5M FL has been built
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:10 AM   #16640
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Hahaha....the car is too good to stay away!
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:16 AM   #16641
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Being a touring car guy, I am one of the only guys I know of at my track that run my battery strap as loose as possible. I like it to be there "just in case" so I can't actually loose it in a bigger crash, but I don't want the battery to be held down tight enough to actually inhibit the chassis from flexing across the center.

Now, if you like LESS chassis flex, considering the battery is down the middle of the chassis and not down one side like a TC... clamping it down tighter will certainly accomplish that. In that case, what matters isn't the fact that you are clamping down the chassis, but that it is down the middle and not down one side affecting chassis flex differently left than right.
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:25 AM   #16642
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Being a touring car guy, I am one of the only guys I know of at my track that run my battery strap as loose as possible. I like it to be there "just in case" so I can't actually loose it in a bigger crash, but I don't want the battery to be held down tight enough to actually inhibit the chassis from flexing across the center.

Now, if you like LESS chassis flex, considering the battery is down the middle of the chassis and not down one side like a TC... clamping it down tighter will certainly accomplish that. In that case, what matters isn't the fact that you are clamping down the chassis, but that it is down the middle and not down one side affecting chassis flex differently left than right.
The problem is when it's overly tight, is it binds the chassis. It'd be great if it made the chassis possibly more rigid, but it doesn't because it isn't linked on the backside. However, when overly tight, it bows, and then binds the chassis.
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:38 AM   #16643
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With all the talk of battery straps wouldn't the old style/system similar to the original Rc10 using a cap head screw with a hole through the head for a body pin be the best and most consistent way to strap in a battery? I think I just aged myself. lol

For carpet off-road whats the best lay out, shorty stock or shorty inline?
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:46 AM   #16644
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With all the talk of battery straps wouldn't the old style/system similar to the original Rc10 using a cap head screw with a hole through the head for a body pin be the best and most consistent way to strap in a battery? I think I just aged myself. lol

For carpet off-road whats the best lay out, shorty stock or shorty inline?
The best method is what works for you, but doesn't bind the chassis.

As for layouts, this isn't video games, there isn't one answer that is the end-all be-all.

I recommend you try both, and then make the choice based on lap times. You'll get 100 different answers here. Only you know what feel you want, on the internet we can only guess.
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:13 AM   #16645
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Anyone have a good method for taking the packs into the Lite Chassis. The extra milling seems to effect contact patch a bit.
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:30 AM   #16646
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Where do u cut the cradle? Is there any other spots u are cutting also? Thanks
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:42 AM   #16647
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Hahaha....the car is too good to stay away!
my next project is figuring out how to shoehorn my Pulse V2 in there.....


Nevermind...think I just did. Ordered an Impact LOL.
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:44 AM   #16648
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Question, the v2 shock pistons, I see they will not work with the 5m lite's shock shafts, I guess you need the v2 shafts as well. But has anyone of you just drilled the center hole out of the v2 pistons to fit the old shafts?
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:00 PM   #16649
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Question, the v2 shock pistons, I see they will not work with the 5m lite's shock shafts, I guess you need the v2 shafts as well. But has anyone of you just drilled the center hole out of the v2 pistons to fit the old shafts?
I would not trust my drill skills to get it perfectly centered. Just get the v2 shafts
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:35 PM   #16650
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my next project is figuring out how to shoehorn my Pulse V2 in there.....


Nevermind...think I just did. Ordered an Impact LOL.
Ha ... I have a pulse esc as well . My Rx is on top of the servo , with the esc and transponder side by side . ITs not pretty , but it works.
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