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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:25 AM   #1636
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$150! Ill take a +/- 0.01 mm inaccuracy.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:48 AM   #1637
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$150! Ill take a +/- 0.01 mm inaccuracy.
I have an older model of that one. I've had it since about 1997 and it still works like new. I also have one of those crappy ones - I think it came for free with some bearings I bought and I just can't get it to work right.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:52 AM   #1638
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Actually a micrometer would be a much better way to measure something like a shock shaft
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:55 AM   #1639
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Actually a micrometer would be a much better way to measure something like a shock shaft
Yeah a screw gage would be better but who can afford that many nice tools for toy cars? Also, calipers ususally have the wider part so you can measure things like a shock shaft pretty easily.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:10 AM   #1640
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Anyone have excessing play between the rear hubs and the rear a arms? I so what are you doing to resolve this?
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:10 AM   #1641
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Just as a question. Why is everyone putting the ESC on the same wide as the motor wires... which would typically be the "heavy" side.
The motor and transmission have been centered (approximately) over the B4.

People worry to much about some small details like ESC/wire placement when even changing the motor from stock to mod changes the weight a small amount.

Fact is +/-5mm side to side placement of the speed control will have such an insignificant change in L/R weight bias because it is still very close to center as it is and and it is a small percentage of the total weight of the car.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:14 AM   #1642
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Anyone have excessing play between the rear hubs and the rear a arms? I so what are you doing to resolve this?
nevermind mine had slop on inner rear arms not outer
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:56 AM   #1643
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yes, i put a red shock o ring between rear arm and rear brace
You fit a red oring in there? How much play did you have??
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:06 AM   #1644
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Just got the call that mine came in. What tips do the guys that built there's have for us?

Thanks for the advice in advance!
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:13 AM   #1645
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yes, i put a red shock o ring between rear arm and rear brace
Yeah I noticed there is play in the rear arms where they attach to the chassis and also in the rear hubs where they meet the rear a arm. Kind of annoying and more slop than my B4
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:13 AM   #1646
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Just got the call that mine came in. What tips do the guys that built there's have for us?

Thanks for the advice in advance!
Read this whole thread. Its full of advice
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:14 AM   #1647
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You fit a red oring in there? How much play did you have??
haha just reread mine was between the arm and block on the inner hinge pin, not the hub side. and the oring gets squished pretty good but no slop after.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:34 AM   #1648
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What are you guys coming up with for a ready to race weight?
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:36 AM   #1649
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I need to go back and shim the rear arms where they connect to the chassis. There was an unusual amount of slop there. I also was a little worried about how much slop the shock caps have on the upper shock mounts. The tops of the shocks can shimmy back and forth quite a bit at the upper shock mounts. I thought maybe I was missing something that might have needed to go in the shock cap hole but didn't find anything in the instructions
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:02 PM   #1650
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What are you guys coming up with for a ready to race weight?
I think based upon what I have read and what mine weighs, roughly 1550g-1580g with a shorty lipo is a safe guess. Keep in mind this is box stock. Mine was 1570g with everything on it rtr.
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