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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-31-2015, 04:56 PM   #16441
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thanks, if only they were in stock
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Old 10-31-2015, 06:01 PM   #16442
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thanks, if only they were in stock
that is the ONLY one made for the ae 10th kits. check exoteks homepage

http://www.exotekracing.com/ae-heavy...orn-7075-a-23/
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Old 10-31-2015, 06:27 PM   #16443
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...k-7819/p292308

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...k-7808/p232621
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Old 10-31-2015, 10:31 PM   #16444
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Agreed, killer option.
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Old 11-01-2015, 05:25 AM   #16445
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What servo horn do most people use on the b5m? doesn't seem to be very many option out there
The kit supplied one.
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Old 11-01-2015, 05:29 AM   #16446
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I use the TLR aluminum horn. You have to ream the hole slightly for the AE ball link to fit and use a nut on the backside.
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Old 11-01-2015, 07:15 AM   #16447
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Ok so Ive broken a ballstud off in my aluminum rear hubs. I managed to get it out but to prevent this in the future do I want to go to titanium ballstuds or go back to plastic hubs?
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Old 11-01-2015, 07:18 AM   #16448
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Ok so Ive broken a ballstud off in my aluminum rear hubs. I managed to get it out but to prevent this in the future do I want to go to titanium ballstuds or go back to plastic hubs?
Lunsford. I also personally have no issues with the stock hubs as well.
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:27 AM   #16449
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I keep telling people that an out of the box Lite is the way to go. Its not like I don't have 6 or 7 B5Ms of all different types and I try everything I can get my hands on. All the bells and whistles are great but almost none of them improve your lap times. I like the aluminum upgrades as much as anybody but most of them are for peace of mind rather than anything else. Admittedly some of my cars have aluminum bell cranks and rack and I can tell you that unless you hit the wall at full speed every race day they aren't needed. An aluminum servo arm is nutz for a buggy. There is no reason for it. That's one thing that I will not do- period. The last thing I need to do is break a $100+ dollar servo to save $3.00. I'm on the fence about the hubs though. I like the precision and extra tun-ability of the aluminum hubs but I've never broken a stock one and you can buy the optional grub screws which will take the slop out. If you are worried about breaking a ball stud off in a aluminum hub, get the Schelles. They have a 2 piece design and you can replace the piece where the ball stud threads in. It takes a lot of self control, which I personally don't have, to not go overboard and buy all the really nice upgrades that they offer for these cars. The after market is full of great products for the B5 line of cars. Its unfortunate that almost none of them are actually value added.
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:14 AM   #16450
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I really want to disagree with your whole statement but the only thing I can honestly disagree with is the servo horn. Every car I own and I do mean EVERY car has an aluminum servo horn in it. I've been sidelined too many times with a busted servo horn. I run hitec servos in my monster trucks and savox lo pros in my race cars and have yet to break one granted ive broken a few steering racks but never a servo. As far as the other upgrades I agree they aren't necessary but a lot of them offer more or different tuning options which in my book make them worth the investment
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:18 AM   #16451
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I keep telling people that an out of the box Lite is the way to go. Its not like I don't have 6 or 7 B5Ms of all different types and I try everything I can get my hands on. All the bells and whistles are great but almost none of them improve your lap times. I like the aluminum upgrades as much as anybody but most of them are for peace of mind rather than anything else. Admittedly some of my cars have aluminum bell cranks and rack and I can tell you that unless you hit the wall at full speed every race day they aren't needed. An aluminum servo arm is nutz for a buggy. There is no reason for it. That's one thing that I will not do- period. The last thing I need to do is break a $100+ dollar servo to save $3.00. I'm on the fence about the hubs though. I like the precision and extra tun-ability of the aluminum hubs but I've never broken a stock one and you can buy the optional grub screws which will take the slop out. If you are worried about breaking a ball stud off in a aluminum hub, get the Schelles. They have a 2 piece design and you can replace the piece where the ball stud threads in. It takes a lot of self control, which I personally don't have, to not go overboard and buy all the really nice upgrades that they offer for these cars. The after market is full of great products for the B5 line of cars. Its unfortunate that almost none of them are actually value added.
I stripped out my stock servo arm, moved to an aluminum and around 20-30 packs into it, everything is great. I didn't do it to save any money, but just like some other aluminum upgrades, it's mainly for peace of mind. I've also had issues with ballstud breakage, although admittedly, I believe the 2 or 3 I've had break were due to slightly backing out and then breaking from the extra leverage on a short thread. I bought the Lunsford Titanium to help with that issue. The MIP pucks I bought I haven't installed yet, but I'm hoping to feel a difference with the weight savings and smoothness. I swapped out the slipper for a exotek locker and I actually noticed a difference in feel that i liked, but my lap times didn't get much better if any. The biggest difference for lap times for me seems to be setup/tires related.

I guess my justification for spending all this extra money (rear alum hubs, alum screws, titanium ballstuds, slipper eliminator, titanium front axles, MIP pucks, etc) is to get the car fast enough so I don't have to always be pushing so hard to be as fast. Like, mentally I'm hoping a faster car will allow me to have more consistency, even though my fastest laps may not be much different, my 5 minute totals hopefully will be better.
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Old 11-01-2015, 10:48 AM   #16452
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Default Is this fast enough? or good enough?

This is my first buggy and will be my first time racing on carpet or anything else
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I have been reading a lot about servos. Not many people appear to be using Hitec servos.

I am thinking the one i got is not good enough. It is a Hitec 5645 with a speed of .23 and torque of 10.3. What do you guys think?

thanks,
John
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Old 11-01-2015, 11:49 AM   #16453
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This is my first buggy and will be my first time racing on carpet or anything else
.
I have been reading a lot about servos. Not many people appear to be using Hitec servos.

I am thinking the one i got is not good enough. It is a Hitec 5645 with a speed of .23 and torque of 10.3. What do you guys think?

thanks,
John
.23 is very slow. Painfully slow.

As your speed, not sure It'll matter much.
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Old 11-01-2015, 11:56 AM   #16454
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That 645 servo you're using is the bottom of hobby grade and its ok but if you plan on racing you'll need something a little bit more stout. Most people want a transit time of.10 or faster for a buggy. There are dozens of good servos available. Its all about your budget.
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Old 11-01-2015, 04:02 PM   #16455
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Originally Posted by johndriver View Post
This is my first buggy and will be my first time racing on carpet or anything else
.
I have been reading a lot about servos. Not many people appear to be using Hitec servos.

I am thinking the one i got is not good enough. It is a Hitec 5645 with a speed of .23 and torque of 10.3. What do you guys think?

thanks,
John
Protek 100SS, for $50, best bang for the buck! 168oz torque and 0.09 Sec speed. In a buggy 0.23 is not even gonna be fun to drive in the driveway.
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