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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:22 PM   #16021
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I have no problem setting up the car with shocks and camber links etc. But I draw the line at tossing brass at a car to make it "work". If a car required brass to work, I will move on to a different car. I am not saying the yz2 is good or bad. No one here runs one, so I have no opportunity to drive one. But I wont use brass to tune a car.
You ever run a 22? They used to SUCK without a pound of brass!
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:34 PM   #16022
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I have no problem setting up the car with shocks and camber links etc. But I draw the line at tossing brass at a car to make it "work". If a car required brass to work, I will move on to a different car. I am not saying the yz2 is good or bad. No one here runs one, so I have no opportunity to drive one. But I wont use brass to tune a car.
Well, the vast majority of people place weight all over their cars to fine tune them including the pros so that statement is a bit puzzling. Is it any different than requiring CF bit all over the place to exploit that little bit more performance?

I will agree that adding tons of it is ridonculous but when it is done right in minimal fashion it can make the difference between a really good car and a great car.
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:36 PM   #16023
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I have no problem setting up the car with shocks and camber links etc. But I draw the line at tossing brass at a car to make it "work". If a car required brass to work, I will move on to a different car. I am not saying the yz2 is good or bad. No one here runs one, so I have no opportunity to drive one. But I wont use brass to tune a car.
I agree with you---it seems weird to me to weigh down a car to make it work better. However, I do see building the car under weight, then using the weight where you want and to get the car back up to weight spec.
I also don't say I'm successful at it, but I do have fun trying... :P
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:37 PM   #16024
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Considering you can still outperform a 22 with a 4.2 without any additional components, I'd say the 22 still isn't what it could and should be. The front end on that car just needs a completely new approach so the thing TURNS how it should.
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Old 10-14-2015, 04:04 PM   #16025
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I have no problem setting up the car with shocks and camber links etc. But I draw the line at tossing brass at a car to make it "work". If a car required brass to work, I will move on to a different car. I am not saying the yz2 is good or bad. No one here runs one, so I have no opportunity to drive one. But I wont use brass to tune a car.
This is incredibly short sighted. Not everybody who adds brass somewhere on the car, is doing that JUST so the car can "work". You are insinuating that people that add brass are doing so ONLY to add mechanical traction because otherwise, they don't know how to tune the car to work without it. I hate to break it to you, but there is more to weight ballast than that. I run brass on my car! Because without it, the car is too light for me.

This is not the same thing as what the 22 guys used to do, which was in order to get the car to have any kind of predictable traction, it needed to be really heavy in order to produce required traction. I run brass to get my car up to a weight that I prefer. The car's overall weight, AND its front-to-rear weight ratio, is maybe your 2nd most important tuning factor after tires. A heavier car will tend to be easier to drive, will feel less twitchy, will produce more traction, and will change direction slower. A lighter car will be faster, more difficult to drive, feel more twitchy, and will produce less traction. You run your weight at a place in order to give your car the overall balance between these two overall characteristics. I tend to prefer somewhere in the middle. Not light, but not heavy.

I don't like my cars right on 1499. They tend to be too twitchy and difficult to drive. I also don't like them super heavy, because then the 17.5 tends to suffer some performance some places on the track, and I may end up fighting traction rolling. I love my B5m right around 1570 regardless of what other setup I may be using. Without any weight ballast my car is about 30 grams shy of that. And since I prefer a car that has a slight push with a slight rear weight bias, the inner brass hingpin holder is an absolutely ideal place and part in which to add some of that weight to my car. My battery is already about as heavy as I can run.

And if you think I can't set up a car, you got another thing coming.
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Old 10-14-2015, 04:10 PM   #16026
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Well, the vast majority of people place weight all over their cars to fine tune them including the pros so that statement is a bit puzzling. Is it any different than requiring CF bit all over the place to exploit that little bit more performance?

I will agree that adding tons of it is ridonculous but when it is done right in minimal fashion it can make the difference between a really good car and a great car.
I was referring to moving the motor forward, then needing 100 grams of weight to make the car stick to the track for mechanical traction. maifield was adding close to 100 grams to make the 22 not suck on clay. The b5m just works. It really does not require massive amounts of crazy crap to work on clay. On astro? Well different story. Something like what tebo ran might be the ticket for some of these carpet tracks. teamc, schuy and a couple others make those motor forward cars. AE wont do it until, that is what Americans are doing. They didnt make a MM until mm became popular. They wont make a laydown until that becomes popular and their b5m is no longer up to snuff.
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Old 10-14-2015, 04:20 PM   #16027
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Has anybody cut the battery tray and the plastic brace behind the servo and the waterfall notice much of a difference?
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Old 10-14-2015, 04:20 PM   #16028
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Its those very comments above that proves my point. We lighten up the B5M to get down to the min weight....the YZ is under weight therefore you need to add weight. Since this is the B5 thread I'm done comparing the two. I will say that the B5 seems to be better balance out of the box. Rewinds a couple of years ago when our locals gave Hartson a run for his money at the stock Nat's with B5's weighing 1600+. Now we want 1499-1500. I think the car is perfect a 1550.
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Old 10-14-2015, 04:20 PM   #16029
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This is incredibly short sighted. Not everybody who adds brass somewhere on the car, is doing that JUST so the car can "work". You are insinuating that people that add brass are doing so ONLY to add mechanical traction because otherwise, they don't know how to tune the car to work without it. I hate to break it to you, but there is more to weight ballast than that. I run brass on my car! Because without it, the car is too light for me.

This is not the same thing as what the 22 guys used to do, which was in order to get the car to have any kind of predictable traction, it needed to be really heavy in order to produce required traction. I run brass to get my car up to a weight that I prefer. The car's overall weight, AND its front-to-rear weight ratio, is maybe your 2nd most important tuning factor after tires. A heavier car will tend to be easier to drive, will feel less twitchy, will produce more traction, and will change direction slower. A lighter car will be faster, more difficult to drive, feel more twitchy, and will produce less traction. You run your weight at a place in order to give your car the overall balance between these two overall characteristics. I tend to prefer somewhere in the middle. Not light, but not heavy.

I don't like my cars right on 1499. They tend to be too twitchy and difficult to drive. I also don't like them super heavy, because then the 17.5 tends to suffer some performance some places on the track, and I may end up fighting traction rolling. I love my B5m right around 1570 regardless of what other setup I may be using. Without any weight ballast my car is about 30 grams shy of that. And since I prefer a car that has a slight push with a slight rear weight bias, the inner brass hingpin holder is an absolutely ideal place and part in which to add some of that weight to my car. My battery is already about as heavy as I can run.

And if you think I can't set up a car, you got another thing coming.
I was talking to kinwald about setting up my sc5m. because it sucks. he showed me his truck....I would sell the truck before ever doing what he did to make it good. hand made front sway bars, brass bulkead, brass C and Brass D, brass on the front bumper and many other things. He had more brass on that thing than I have ever seen on any rc car. That is what I am referring to. I was not referring to balancing the car with weight.


Anyway, AE will not be coming out with a low tranny for the foreseeable future. That is the question the sparked the debate. If you read between the lines in Brent's interview, it is pretty clear. He said the worlds car was a special car made only for the worlds and this "if" the US started running on astro turf and demand it, they would rethink things.

And I also dont run a super light car, but I dont run brass or a square pack either. I come in at 1560. The only thing I did for sure weight wise, was run a full sized servo, because it just felt better to me.
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Old 10-14-2015, 05:41 PM   #16030
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I was talking to kinwald about setting up my sc5m. because it sucks. he showed me his truck....I would sell the truck before ever doing what he did to make it good. hand made front sway bars, brass bulkead, brass C and Brass D, brass on the front bumper and many other things. He had more brass on that thing than I have ever seen on any rc car. That is what I am referring to. I was not referring to balancing the car with weight.


Anyway, AE will not be coming out with a low tranny for the foreseeable future. That is the question the sparked the debate. If you read between the lines in Brent's interview, it is pretty clear. He said the worlds car was a special car made only for the worlds and this "if" the US started running on astro turf and demand it, they would rethink things.

And I also dont run a super light car, but I dont run brass or a square pack either. I come in at 1560. The only thing I did for sure weight wise, was run a full sized servo, because it just felt better to me.
Kinwald is in a league much higher than us regular racers. What he did to the car probably fits is driving style against other pro's. If you had Josh Cyrul at your local track you wouldn't be in the hobby as he modified EVERYTHING....... Lol
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Old 10-14-2015, 06:10 PM   #16031
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Kinwald is in a league much higher than us regular racers. What he did to the car probably fits is driving style against other pro's. If you had Josh Cyrul at your local track you wouldn't be in the hobby as he modified EVERYTHING....... Lol
It is fun to see what kinwald comes up with. I just dont ever see myself going down that road. besides, I have zero issues with the way the b5m lite handles. The car is so good it makes my head spin.
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Old 10-14-2015, 06:18 PM   #16032
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Weight can be used to add traction or inertia. Inertia is stability. I generally like a pretty light car, and I don't add any weight to my cars now days, but in the b44 days, I would run 2oz of ballast weight—not for traction, but for rear end stability depending on the track layout. There was never any problem with traction in 4wd
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Old 10-14-2015, 06:25 PM   #16033
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Weight can be used to add traction or inertia. Inertia is stability. I generally like a pretty light car, and I don't add any weight to my cars now days, but in the b44 days, I would run 2oz of ballast weight—not for traction, but for rear end stability depending on the track layout. There was never any problem with traction in 4wd
the funny thing is, when I ran the OG 1640g b5m, it was terrible. very tippy and just drove like a crap fest. I run on a very high bite tacky surface. Edgy would be the right word. will all that weight and momentum, the car just sucked imo. I put all the light stuff on and got to 1500 and didnt like it. So I started taking off light weight crap until the car felt good. which is about 1550-1570. I do agree that it is about the "right" weight. But if the right weight is 100g of brass, I will pass. that is just me.
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:01 PM   #16034
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To throw another topic of discussion at yall

B5M Honeycomb Chassis


Ruona says it sheds 23 grams off the ORIGINAL B5M chassis. Not sure what the FL chassis shed (I wanna say ~30, could be wrong). The thing looks so nice though.

Aluminum Rear Bulkhead and CF Tower


Not sure what weight this adds, but looks great nonetheless. Reminds me of the C4.2.

CF Front shock tower w/ aluminum ballstud mount


A standard and narrow aluminum will be available. These feature 3 hole mounting locations that can be set at different heights on the shock tower.

Warrior Body (Can't help but notice his gear cover and cap. looks great)


Silencer 2 (Available in laydown tranny version)


Along with all this stuff, JC is releasing aluminum shock caps, shock collars, shock bottoms (o-ring holders), aluminum spring cups with the 5mm offset, and 2 new bodies.

Yea, Jason went balls to the wall on the B5M.

Videos on these products:
http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...M_%5BVIDEO%5D/
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:24 AM   #16035
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Sometimes, too much is too much
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