STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I ran mine out of the box and people are still running my setup.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Same here but my wife finally ran on a track and turns out she loved it so now I have to buy 2 kits and I'll swap my sone to run the same car as us so that's 3!!! LOL
3 AE Kits will save me a considerable amount of Mula.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

The yok thread us no different that this one. People Dont know how to setup a car and want to be told the hot setup. It does work on low bite tracks.

chippedvw

iTrader: (28)

Just bought a b5M.

Cant wait to build it.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I have no problem setting up the car with shocks and camber links etc. But I draw the line at tossing brass at a car to make it "work". If a car required brass to work, I will move on to a different car. I am not saying the yz2 is good or bad. No one here runs one, so I have no opportunity to drive one. But I wont use brass to tune a car.

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

Back in the late 80's and early 90's rc racing was big around here..... back then things were much simpler.... maybe there is something to that

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

A lot of the AE guys were running brass front bulkheads at Yatabe were they not? Brass has its place, it all depends on the surface.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

You ever run a 22? They used to SUCK without a pound of brass!

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Well, the vast majority of people place weight all over their cars to fine tune them including the pros so that statement is a bit puzzling. Is it any different than requiring CF bit all over the place to exploit that little bit more performance?

I will agree that adding tons of it is ridonculous but when it is done right in minimal fashion it can make the difference between a really good car and a great car.

maddysdaddy

iTrader: (40)

I agree with you---it seems weird to me to weigh down a car to make it work better. However, I do see building the car under weight, then using the weight where you want and to get the car back up to weight spec.
I also don't say I'm successful at it, but I do have fun trying... :P

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Considering you can still outperform a 22 with a 4.2 without any additional components, I'd say the 22 still isn't what it could and should be. The front end on that car just needs a completely new approach so the thing TURNS how it should.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

This is incredibly short sighted. Not everybody who adds brass somewhere on the car, is doing that JUST so the car can "work". You are insinuating that people that add brass are doing so ONLY to add mechanical traction because otherwise, they don't know how to tune the car to work without it. I hate to break it to you, but there is more to weight ballast than that. I run brass on my car! Because without it, the car is too light for me.

This is not the same thing as what the 22 guys used to do, which was in order to get the car to have any kind of predictable traction, it needed to be really heavy in order to produce required traction. I run brass to get my car up to a weight that I prefer. The car's overall weight, AND its front-to-rear weight ratio, is maybe your 2nd most important tuning factor after tires. A heavier car will tend to be easier to drive, will feel less twitchy, will produce more traction, and will change direction slower. A lighter car will be faster, more difficult to drive, feel more twitchy, and will produce less traction. You run your weight at a place in order to give your car the overall balance between these two overall characteristics. I tend to prefer somewhere in the middle. Not light, but not heavy.

I don't like my cars right on 1499. They tend to be too twitchy and difficult to drive. I also don't like them super heavy, because then the 17.5 tends to suffer some performance some places on the track, and I may end up fighting traction rolling. I love my B5m right around 1570 regardless of what other setup I may be using. Without any weight ballast my car is about 30 grams shy of that. And since I prefer a car that has a slight push with a slight rear weight bias, the inner brass hingpin holder is an absolutely ideal place and part in which to add some of that weight to my car. My battery is already about as heavy as I can run.

And if you think I can't set up a car, you got another thing coming.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I was referring to moving the motor forward, then needing 100 grams of weight to make the car stick to the track for mechanical traction. maifield was adding close to 100 grams to make the 22 not suck on clay. The b5m just works. It really does not require massive amounts of crazy crap to work on clay. On astro? Well different story. Something like what tebo ran might be the ticket for some of these carpet tracks. teamc, schuy and a couple others make those motor forward cars. AE wont do it until, that is what Americans are doing. They didnt make a MM until mm became popular. They wont make a laydown until that becomes popular and their b5m is no longer up to snuff.

DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

Has anybody cut the battery tray and the plastic brace behind the servo and the waterfall notice much of a difference?

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Its those very comments above that proves my point. We lighten up the B5M to get down to the min weight....the YZ is under weight therefore you need to add weight. Since this is the B5 thread I'm done comparing the two. I will say that the B5 seems to be better balance out of the box. Rewinds a couple of years ago when our locals gave Hartson a run for his money at the stock Nat's with B5's weighing 1600+. Now we want 1499-1500. I think the car is perfect a 1550.