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Old 09-29-2015, 11:13 AM   #15781
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What good is upgrading the transmission bearings if you're not also upgrading the wheel hub bearings?
Leverage and drag.
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Old 09-29-2015, 12:16 PM   #15782
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I only run my cars in blinky, so I no longer run any dynamic timing in my ESC. Back in 08/09/10ish... before the blinky mode thing became law in the RC world for stock racing, and when I was running touring car, you had to be VERY good at understanding and implementing dynamic timing in the ESC in order to be competitive. If you want to learn how that all works, do a google search or send me a PM and i'd be happy to explain it.

Having said that, if you ARE running blinky mode rules, you can't set even static timing in your ESC anyway. But for all intents and purposes, adding 10 degrees of static timing in your ESC is no different than adding 10 degrees of static timing to the endbell of the motor.

The real question is when do you gear up or down, vs adding or removing endbell timing on the motor. For your average racer, they really can be thought of as being synonymous. Adding timing feels, for the most part, like gearing up. Now, there are actually differences. Certain motors will perform better, or feel better, or seem to prefer a certain range on it's timing endbell. For example, on my Fantom motors I run in offroad, The motors feel better geared up one tooth, with the timing kept relativly lower, around 40 on the endbell. Geared down but running 50 on the endbell (which should net the same basic power band), feels different... feels like I loose some of that middle power band grunt. It will require testing with your specific motor.

All in all, the rule of thumb, is run your endbell timing to match the size of the track. 40 for a smaller track, 45 for a medium track, and 50 for a large track (just a general recommendation, YMMV). The longer the car spends it's time at max speed of the vehicle, the more endbell timing will help.
Good info! Thanks! Now what's the difference between running a 69/31 vs 81/27. I guess this goes back to gear ratios and everything, but is there an actual difference? Just some extra info, the class is on a small high traction track. Rules are 17.5 motor but you are allowed to run esc timing.
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:05 PM   #15783
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Good info! Thanks! Now what's the difference between running a 69/31 vs 81/27. I guess this goes back to gear ratios and everything, but is there an actual difference? Just some extra info, the class is on a small high traction track. Rules are 17.5 motor but you are allowed to run esc timing.
There's a massive difference between those 2 gear ratios. The 69/31 is a good starting point for 17.5 buggy, while the 81/27 sounds more like a 17.5 short course gearing. 81/27 in a buggy, would accelerate to its very low top speed very quickpy
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:19 PM   #15784
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Good info! Thanks! Now what's the difference between running a 69/31 vs 81/27. I guess this goes back to gear ratios and everything, but is there an actual difference? Just some extra info, the class is on a small high traction track. Rules are 17.5 motor but you are allowed to run esc timing.
Those are two totally different gear ratios. It's like asking "When I drive my full sized car, what is the difference between being in 1st gear, and being in 4th gear"? Totally different gear ratios. Your power band will be at a lower speed with one, and a higher speed with the other. You need to gear your car for it's weight, and track size/lap times.

The question USUALLY asked, is "whats the difference between 69/31 and 73/32?". Same basic gear ratio, so no real difference. The biggest difference, is where it positions your motor in the car. In a MM car, larger gear sets, while keeping the same ratio, will move the motor forward creating more steering.
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:41 PM   #15785
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Those are two totally different gear ratios. It's like asking "When I drive my full sized car, what is the difference between being in 1st gear, and being in 4th gear"? Totally different gear ratios. Your power band will be at a lower speed with one, and a higher speed with the other. You need to gear your car for it's weight, and track size/lap times.

The question USUALLY asked, is "whats the difference between 69/31 and 73/32?". Same basic gear ratio, so no real difference. The biggest difference, is where it positions your motor in the car. In a MM car, larger gear sets, while keeping the same ratio, will move the motor forward creating more steering.
I just used two big difference in gears example to get an explanation on the difference. From what I am understanding now, going with the larger spur/ smaller pinion is going to get my car to it's top speed faster, but the top speed is going to be slower and with a larger spur you need a smaller pinion, thus moving your motor forward to get your gear mesh right, creating more steering.

Another question, i'm going to start out with a 69/31, 40 endbell timing, 0 esc timing. Let's say I need more straightaway speed, what would you look to to change first?
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Old 09-29-2015, 04:42 PM   #15786
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I just used two big difference in gears example to get an explanation on the difference. From what I am understanding now, going with the larger spur/ smaller pinion is going to get my car to it's top speed faster, but the top speed is going to be slower and with a larger spur you need a smaller pinion, thus moving your motor forward to get your gear mesh right, creating more steering.

Another question, i'm going to start out with a 69/31, 40 endbell timing, 0 esc timing. Let's say I need more straightaway speed, what would you look to to change first?
Whether you want to handle this with motor timing or gearing will depend on your specific motor. So try 45° of timing. Then go back to 40° and go to a 32 pinion and see which you liked better. Remember to always watch your temps when gearin . Especially when gearing up
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Old 09-29-2015, 05:04 PM   #15787
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Whether you want to handle this with motor timing or gearing will depend on your specific motor. So try 45° of timing. Then go back to 40° and go to a 32 pinion and see which you liked better. Remember to always watch your temps when gearin . Especially when gearing up
Yep, just ruined a D4 from heat and have a Reedy M3 coming in . I was always pushing my D4 to the limit on my track and it just slowly lost power. It was at a point where people were asking me why my car was so slow on the straighaway Hopefully I have a better experience now that I have a better insight on gearing and timing.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:33 PM   #15788
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When is it appropriate to change gearing vs endbell timing vs esc timing. What is the advantage of changing one over the other or what's the difference in changing each.
Timing moves where in the rpm range your motor makes it's torque. Lower timing makes more torque down low, where as higher timing makes for more torque at higher rpm, resulting in a higher top speed capability as well. Your timing selection "shapes" your power band.

Gearing distributes the power band, whatever shape it is, across your car's range of operable speed. Gear higher, you will have higher top speed and less torque everywhere.

Static motor timing (or blinky mode) is not optimal, period, but most people run mod motors like this just because there's no need to add dynamic timing (boost) in most cases, and it keeps the power delivery very linear and temps down. Adding dynamic ESC timing is nice when you want to make a slower mod motor faster on a straight away, yet tame in the infield—its almost like using throttle expo, except the power comes on smoother.

For fixed timing classes such as 17.5, you generally give up some punch down low for top speed because that will get you over jumps or keep people off your tail down the straight. This means you adjust timing up from the normal 30º. I found that once I reached a point adding timing, I was getting very little noticeable top speed gain, but temperatures started going up a lot. I backed off until the temperatures normalized well and I was very near peak power. After that, normal gearing changes can be done to for power delivery and heat with the knowledge that your gearing changes will produce relatively small changes in temperature compared to timing changes that can make temperature sky rocket.

For me, I found that 45º was ideal on my d4 maxzilla, and I gear for either indoor or outdoor for my power delivery and top speed. I never get north of 160F, even after running for 10+ minutes, and my car is one of the fastest ones there, clearing everything with ease and very quick down the straight. This is in my RC10 worlds car btw.

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Old 09-30-2015, 09:01 AM   #15789
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My B5M Factory Lite will be here tomorrow. I going to run it Mod is anyone else running the Factory Lite in Mod?
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Old 09-30-2015, 09:06 AM   #15790
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My B5M Factory Lite will be here tomorrow. I going to run it Mod is anyone else running the Factory Lite in Mod?
I have run mine in both. What is the question?
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Old 09-30-2015, 01:56 PM   #15791
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http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...k_tower_plugs/
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Old 09-30-2015, 02:24 PM   #15792
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Crayola makes something similar that also works on your lower chassis allen heads. They even come in multiple colors.
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Old 09-30-2015, 02:54 PM   #15793
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Another question, i'm going to start out with a 69/31, 40 endbell timing, 0 esc timing. Let's say I need more straightaway speed, what would you look to to change first?
This is the exact timing and gearing I run on my Fantom Ion5, 17.5 with a BP rotor. Remember, you can't ONLY add top speed on the straight. You can can add top speed to the straight, but you will sacrifice torque somewhere in the infield. You need to gear for the best lap time... which won't necessarily mean gearing for being fast on the straight. There is no black and white answer... it comes down to the size of your track, and how it's laid out.

Adding some timing, or gearing up a pinion tooth, will both improve the car's top speed. But if the stop speed is only reached at the very end of the straight, you won't be maximizing your use of where the car is making it's power. Put the power band of the motor, at the speed the car is at, more than any other speed.

For example, if your track is HUGE, with long straights and is free flowing, your car will be spending a lot more time at it's max speed, than on a small track with nothing but tight 180 degree turns. There is a narrow band where the motor does the majority of it's work.. where it produces the best torque, and where it produces it's heat. If on the long track the car is moving at 20 mph on average, you want it to be producing it's torque at 20mph. On the tiny track, your average speed might be 8mph, so you want to gear lower where you are getting the most work/torque out of the motor, at 8mph.

The challenge comes when you have a track with a HUGE straight-away followed by a really tight infield.
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Old 09-30-2015, 05:18 PM   #15794
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I have run mine in both. What is the question?

I've heard some guys say it's too light for mod
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Old 09-30-2015, 05:32 PM   #15795
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hello i have a question im putting together my b5m lite and im up too the shocks. how many spacers go on each of the shock shafts? 1 spacer or 2 spacers on each shaft? thanks alot
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