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Old 09-03-2015, 08:22 AM   #15406
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you want to tune the car for one corner? Have you considered using brakes?
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:54 AM   #15407
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you want to tune the car for one corner? Have you considered using brakes?
Def using brakes, it's not only that one corner, but I feel
I'm losing most of time In that corner.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:22 AM   #15408
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Def using brakes, it's not only that one corner, but I feel
I'm losing most of time In that corner.
Don't tune your car for one corner (or even two).. tune for laptimes, period. If you have a 180 hairpin that you need to change direction on quickly, don't sacrifice overall rear traction everywhere else on the track to get around that corner better, slide the rear end around instead. Having said that, there are lots of ways to achieve more on-throttle steering:

1. 3gear trans instead of a 4gear
trade-offs: static weight will be slightly lower, pitch correction is slightly different, cars on-throttle/off-throttle balance is slightly different everywhere

2. Heavier rear suspension
trade-offs: less rear traction off throttle too, less rear side bite, car will jump/land different

3. 3degree anti-squat instead of 2degree
trade-offs: less rear side bite, slightly less off-throttle steering

4. Less front droop
trade-offs: less mid corner steering as well, car will jump/land different

5. Static weight shift to the front of the vehicle
trade-offs: less rear traction across the spectrum.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:34 AM   #15409
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Def using brakes, it's not only that one corner, but I feel
I'm losing most of time In that corner.
Also, I am not watching you drive or running your car, but check out some apex driving videos for 180. they can help you maintain speed and scrub less speed.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:36 AM   #15410
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Def using brakes, it's not only that one corner, but I feel
I'm losing most of time In that corner.
You might lose some time in that corner but in all other areas where it's good you push harder and go faster to make up that deficit. Do that in two to three corners and sections and you have an overall improved lap over everyone else.
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:12 AM   #15411
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Speedychris22, your cheapest tuning options are the offset caster bushings (big one to the bottom) or what would potentially gain you the most would be 2.5 deg toe in the rear end.
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Old 09-03-2015, 11:43 AM   #15412
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Cheapest tuning option is just moving the battery forward in my opinion. Simple, quick, easy, and actually pretty effective.
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Old 09-03-2015, 03:15 PM   #15413
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Speedychris, I just did some tuning based on what these guys said earlier. Moving the battery forward with the thick pad in the back helped the most.
The other thing that helped was an ackerman change. I copied a pro setup but somehow missed the ackerman change on my first build. With the kit 2mm (blue) ackerman washer, the car has anti-ackerman through most of the normal steering range. removing the spacer all together gave mostly normal ackerman and it was a big help on the slow 180 that made me crazy, but it was a little twitchy in the wide sweepers.
I'm now running a 1mm washer behind the ball and using more steering throw than I'm used to to get the bite in the 180. I'm also running the ride height at 23mm F with 24mm rear and I can come in fast and roll through the 180 without stabbing the brake. (drag brake 11%)
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Old 09-03-2015, 03:49 PM   #15414
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Cool thanks guys, appreciate the advise. I'm still learning setup so really trying to understand what each change does to a car. I'm finally starting understand where my car needs to improve. Figuered I post my setup so u guys can what the car is like now
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Old 09-03-2015, 04:12 PM   #15415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Ok guys need a little setup advise I run on a bumpy md traction clay dirt mix surface. I've started with the stock chassis but felt I needed more rear traction. I installed lite chassis and the rear end is locked in now. I need On Power steering. We have this one 180 deg turn and I can't get this car to turn on power, everywhere else the car is good. Here is my setup what should I change.
From your setup. I would change to...one at a time in any order.
Green front spring
Rear shock mid hole on tower
24mm rear ride height
Rear hubs middle
One thin pad being batt

Problem solved. All this will help a add steering.
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Old 09-03-2015, 04:54 PM   #15416
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Doh, didnt even see the battery
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Old 09-03-2015, 04:55 PM   #15417
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Originally Posted by Eddie_E View Post
Speedychris, I just did some tuning based on what these guys said earlier. Moving the battery forward with the thick pad in the back helped the most.
The other thing that helped was an ackerman change. I copied a pro setup but somehow missed the ackerman change on my first build. With the kit 2mm (blue) ackerman washer, the car has anti-ackerman through most of the normal steering range. removing the spacer all together gave mostly normal ackerman and it was a big help on the slow 180 that made me crazy, but it was a little twitchy in the wide sweepers.
I'm now running a 1mm washer behind the ball and using more steering throw than I'm used to to get the bite in the 180. I'm also running the ride height at 23mm F with 24mm rear and I can come in fast and roll through the 180 without stabbing the brake. (drag brake 11%)

I'm right there with you. I run 0mm of ackerman (increased ackerman) on the rack and it works great when traction is extremely high, however, if traction isn't through the roof it makes my car push like dump truck full of dirt on power. This is just a personal observation that I've made with my cars. In theory I might have it all wrong but based on a decent amount of track time that is what I have found.

Moving my battery forward and adding a full sized servo helped but unless there's a lot of traction running less than 2mm on the rack caused a lot of on power push [for me]. Drag brake would only be useful if you want to roll the corner at a high rate of speed but if you're going to do that why not just brake? Personally, I don't like drag brake.
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Old 09-03-2015, 05:11 PM   #15418
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I'm right there with you. I run 0mm of ackerman (increased ackerman) on the rack and it works great when traction is extremely high, however, if traction isn't through the roof it makes my car push like dump truck full of dirt on power. This is just a personal observation that I've made with my cars. In theory I might have it all wrong but based on a decent amount of track time that is what I have found.

Moving my battery forward and adding a full sized servo helped but unless there's a lot of traction running less than 2mm on the rack caused a lot of on power push [for me]. Drag brake would only be useful if you want to roll the corner at a high rate of speed but if you're going to do that why not just brake? Personally, I don't like drag brake.
weird. I tried 0mm, 1m and 2mm. My car got grabby in the middle of the turn with less washers and corkscrewed. The steering felt smoother and less responsive adding washers.
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Old 09-03-2015, 05:41 PM   #15419
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This is one topic I don't have a definitive opinion on. Wildcat, you're on high bite clay so, per the book, your car should have felt more stable on entry with increased ackerman, but once again I'm not 100% sure. I'm talking specifically about steering on power. Its new to me since I started building these 5 series cars. Anybody have a more informed explanation?
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:52 PM   #15420
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Shock oils - what is the general reason and theory why heavier oil is ran in the front then the rear?
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