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Old 08-26-2015, 08:02 PM   #15301
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I run 2mm on my T5M but 4mm on my B5M and SC5M. I will be trying 2mm on all, then trying 3mm on all and see how they feel. I like the truck the best of all of them right now.
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:17 PM   #15302
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I run 2mm on my T5M but 4mm on my B5M and SC5M. I will be trying 2mm on all, then trying 3mm on all and see how they feel. I like the truck the best of all of them right now.
Running 2mm on all 4 of my 5 series. I like alot of steering in my rides
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:54 PM   #15303
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Originally Posted by BIGSKI15 View Post
I was surprised to see cav's car set up the way it was for nationals. It seems nobody (pros) on high bite uses anything but 4mm trail but cav went to the 2mm trail.

Razathorn,

any thoughts or explanation on why you think he set up his car the way he did on a track with that much traction? Green spring in the rear threw me off too.
This is my best educated guess:

Looking at his setup, one thing is obvious—he wanted less chassis roll. His ride height was 19mm—it's slammed. That makes for dramatically less traction in corners. He was probably fighting traction rolls initially. Honestly, I would bet that he futzed with one, maybe two things, before he came to the conclusion that standard ride height wasn't gonna work, and then started dropping the car until he found something that felt in the ball park, and then adjusted everything else around it. I bet he slammed it until it was more loose/pushy but didn't traction roll nearly as bad, then he did the standard things to get consistent traction and enough steering back.

The first thing you will notice (after ride height) is that he is running the A standard rear hub hole instead of the B "half hole longer" hole he normally runs, which would seem to indicate that his rear side bite was suffering—probably in some of those long "at speed" corners that layout has. I bet at 19mm, the car's "dynamics" were just totally different. I won't pretend to know HOW he got there, but green springs with 3x1.4 and 27 wt oil in the rear screams "gimme some traction" to me, and that agrees with going back to the A hole in the hub for those long corners. All of that is because of the low ride height, which is all to prevent traction rolling (my guess!).

On to the front, the blue springs and 1.6 pistons are both "high traction stability" choices in my book—numb that front end so it can be driven hard and isn't twitchy. The lack of ride height is going to kill steering, and that would certainly explain the trailing axle choice if he actually used 2mm, which his setup sheet does NOT say.

If you watched any of the videos, you'll note that this isn't really a track that you steer with rotation, you steer with your diff being free (i.e. gear diff) and your front end doing work—they looked like slot cars.

So, in summary, and please remember that I could be entirely wrong as I'm just making an educated guess: Slam that bitch till it's a little meh but doesn't traction roll, then dial out the meh with your standard bag of tricks.

The one thing that I DID find interesting is that he didn't really play with camber link height much. It just goes to show ya that roll center tuning is really the final piece in the puzzle / a fine tuning option. With 4 cars to setup right to eventually sweep with, you probably can't spent time fine tuning ball stud washers.

Wayne
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Old 08-26-2015, 10:37 PM   #15304
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After about six practice days getting comfortable with my new buggy I decided to tear it down, clean it up and check everything from front to back. Glad I did as I found my castor blocks to be off with one 5 degree and one 0 degree, eyes not what they used to be

Added a few upgrades along the way and cleaned everything up from all the clay it has picked up over those practice days. Opened up the diff and checked the rings and balls, everything is bedded in nicely and still spinning smoothly. The Acer ceramic bearings, MIP pucks and Schelle slipper sure make for one very smooth transmission, probably the only upgrades (done previously) that made any real world difference in performance or durability.

Added the Associated titanium screw set, Lunsford quick change shock mounts, Schelle off set motor mount and a few other bits. Also had to replace the Team Powers 17.5 with an old Novak 13.5 as the TP sensor board had broke away from it's mounts, kind of sucks and hope that isn't a common occurence with these brushless motors, this could get as expensive is nitro racing.

I had picked up a Trinity D4 17.5 SS to replace the Team Powers but the end bell is very odd and it only clocks to three positions and none had the soldering lugs in good locations, praying the hobby shop will take it back for something else.

One of the better purchases was the Dewalt 12V clutched mini torque wrench, it made short work of getting all the screws out and back with out destroying my wrist. I can see why guys have these in their pits as they are a massive time saver when you have to tear into the buggy and get it up and running in short order.

Nothing you haven't seen before but it is mine and I am enjoying the hell out of it-


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Old 08-27-2015, 04:37 AM   #15305
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
I had picked up a Trinity D4 17.5 SS to replace the Team Powers but the end bell is very odd and it only clocks to three positions and none had the soldering lugs in good locations, praying the hobby shop will take it back for something else.
You need to rotate the end of the can to get proper alignment. Not the end bell side, the shaft side.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:04 AM   #15306
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
After about six practice days getting comfortable with my new buggy I decided to tear it down, clean it up and check everything from front to back. Glad I did as I found my castor blocks to be off with one 5 degree and one 0 degree, eyes not what they used to be

Added a few upgrades along the way and cleaned everything up from all the clay it has picked up over those practice days. Opened up the diff and checked the rings and balls, everything is bedded in nicely and still spinning smoothly. The Acer ceramic bearings, MIP pucks and Schelle slipper sure make for one very smooth transmission, probably the only upgrades (done previously) that made any real world difference in performance or durability.

Added the Associated titanium screw set, Lunsford quick change shock mounts, Schelle off set motor mount and a few other bits. Also had to replace the Team Powers 17.5 with an old Novak 13.5 as the TP sensor board had broke away from it's mounts, kind of sucks and hope that isn't a common occurence with these brushless motors, this could get as expensive is nitro racing.

I had picked up a Trinity D4 17.5 SS to replace the Team Powers but the end bell is very odd and it only clocks to three positions and none had the soldering lugs in good locations, praying the hobby shop will take it back for something else.

One of the better purchases was the Dewalt 12V clutched mini torque wrench, it made short work of getting all the screws out and back with out destroying my wrist. I can see why guys have these in their pits as they are a massive time saver when you have to tear into the buggy and get it up and running in short order.

Nothing you haven't seen before but it is mine and I am enjoying the hell out of it-


the part of the trinity motor that touches the motor plate can be rotated for better alignment and wiring.
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:51 AM   #15307
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How have your ballcups been behaving? When I first build the kit I had t do the old pinch with pliers trick to get free movement on the turnbuckles.

Since then I popped them off a few times to reset a couple things.

Now they don't seem so smooth some needed to be re-squeezed with pliers to get free movement.

Have any of you bought ballcups from Associated lately, have they gotten better?

Does the squeeze last or do the ballcups snap back to original tight shape?
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:23 AM   #15308
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Originally Posted by tekin112000 View Post
How have your ballcups been behaving? When I first build the kit I had t do the old pinch with pliers trick to get free movement on the turnbuckles.

Since then I popped them off a few times to reset a couple things.

Now they don't seem so smooth some needed to be re-squeezed with pliers to get free movement.

Have any of you bought ballcups from Associated lately, have they gotten better?

Does the squeeze last or do the ballcups snap back to original tight shape?
Kurt from Schelle posted this trick to freeing ballcups and it works. Snap them on backwards (small hole) and then pop off and snap on correctly. this will stretch them ever so slightly and will free them up.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:46 AM   #15309
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
I had picked up a Trinity D4 17.5 SS to replace the Team Powers but the end bell is very odd and it only clocks to three positions and none had the soldering lugs in good locations, praying the hobby shop will take it back for something else.
i know it's been said, but it's always better with pictures...



if you take out those three screws and rotate that piece so that it is aligned like it is in that pic, your solder tabs will face up, like this (for the anal retentive and OCD'ers, yes, it's not a great solder job, but my buggy is a rocket, and now that i'm looking at it, i'll probably re-do it):

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Old 08-27-2015, 12:33 PM   #15310
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Originally Posted by tekin112000 View Post
How have your ballcups been behaving? When I first build the kit I had t do the old pinch with pliers trick to get free movement on the turnbuckles.

Since then I popped them off a few times to reset a couple things.

Now they don't seem so smooth some needed to be re-squeezed with pliers to get free movement.

Have any of you bought ballcups from Associated lately, have they gotten better?

Does the squeeze last or do the ballcups snap back to original tight shape?
I can tell you the ballcups in the B5M lite were pretty good and had more movement, but the ones on the SC5M never needed any work. Even after a whole day of racing, it's movement is free. I am assuming they must have changed their molds to have better tolerances, but I am not sure if there will be a new part number for that or that they are revising the new ballcups with the same part numbers.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:34 PM   #15311
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Originally Posted by Sean B. View Post
You need to rotate the end of the can to get proper alignment. Not the end bell side, the shaft side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
the part of the trinity motor that touches the motor plate can be rotated for better alignment and wiring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
i know it's been said, but it's always better with pictures...
if you take out those three screws and rotate that piece so that it is aligned like it is in that pic, your solder tabs will face up, like this (for the anal retentive and OCD'ers, yes, it's not a great solder job, but my buggy is a rocket, and now that i'm looking at it, i'll probably re-do it):
Thanks to all three for the followup and feedback. Yeah, once the first post hit it was a palm to forehead moment. At that point it was obvious I was tackling the problem from one side and never even considered clocking the output shaft side of the motor. Have not bothered to solder up the Trinity, but am positive it will mate up no trouble once I get both ends of the motor clocked correctly. I might just bring the soldering station with me and test out this old Novak 13.5, see how well it performs against the more modern timeable brushless that are available now.



Quote:
Originally Posted by tekin112000 View Post
How have your ballcups been behaving? When I first build the kit I had t do the old pinch with pliers trick to get free movement on the turnbuckles.

Since then I popped them off a few times to reset a couple things.

Now they don't seem so smooth some needed to be re-squeezed with pliers to get free movement.

Have any of you bought ballcups from Associated lately, have they gotten better?

Does the squeeze last or do the ballcups snap back to original tight shape?
They must have made some changes in the recent past as the kit I just built, new stock of the B5M Lite, the ballcups mounted up nicely to the ballstuds. After a few battery packs they are moving very freely and I would not want them any looser than they already are. Might be worth it to try a package of the newest release, even if they have the same part #. Order from some one like Amain who goes through stock rapidly to be certain you are getting the most current inventory. Compared to ballcup and studs from a decade ago, you always had to upgrade to RPM to have a good match and those required effort to get them to move freely on the ballstuds.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:01 PM   #15312
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Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
I can tell you the ballcups in the B5M lite were pretty good and had more movement, but the ones on the SC5M never needed any work. Even after a whole day of racing, it's movement is free. I am assuming they must have changed their molds to have better tolerances, but I am not sure if there will be a new part number for that or that they are revising the new ballcups with the same part numbers.
I have the B5M lite kit, they all needed a bit of tweaking to get free play.

Thanks for suggesting the idea of getting a new set at a high turnover place like A-main.
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:30 PM   #15313
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
i know it's been said, but it's always better with pictures...



if you take out those three screws and rotate that piece so that it is aligned like it is in that pic, your solder tabs will face up, like this (for the anal retentive and OCD'ers, yes, it's not a great solder job, but my buggy is a rocket, and now that i'm looking at it, i'll probably re-do it):

I can't believe you would post pics like that, proving you're human!
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Old 08-27-2015, 04:02 PM   #15314
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Originally Posted by tekin112000 View Post
How have your ballcups been behaving? When I first build the kit I had t do the old pinch with pliers trick to get free movement on the turnbuckles.

Since then I popped them off a few times to reset a couple things.

Now they don't seem so smooth some needed to be re-squeezed with pliers to get free movement.

Have any of you bought ballcups from Associated lately, have they gotten better?

Does the squeeze last or do the ballcups snap back to original tight shape?
I just got a new Associated ball cup set for a new set of gold turnbuckles from SMC and to my surprise they snapped on and moved freely with no pinching whatsoever! They not only flopped by the weight of the arms, one of them flopped by the weight of itself. I would twist the tierod and it would twist back. Awesome... I knew it was going to be a running change and those cups are now getting out from the factory. So that should mean they will start showing up in the kits too.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:46 PM   #15315
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Blue chassis protector

Black Chassis Protector
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