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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-24-2015, 11:19 AM   #15241
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or you could just buy them.

who makes those?
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Old 08-24-2015, 11:48 AM   #15242
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nope, I have the 3 gear but with MM arms in the rear. the sweep diff between the RM and MM rear A arms is slight but this wouldn't affect wheel width. Can you snap a few pics showing at full droop and full compression as well as the hubs?
Here's some pics. Full droop. Full compression and the hubs. At full compression I can still wiggle the drive shaft a bit but it is making contact with the diff nut.Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-image.jpg

Only let me attach one. That's compression.
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Old 08-24-2015, 11:50 AM   #15243
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Here's droop and the hub...Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-image.jpg

I guess it's just the drive pin that's touching at the 12 o'clock position.
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Old 08-24-2015, 11:57 AM   #15244
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Looks normal to me.
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Old 08-24-2015, 12:13 PM   #15245
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Full droop looks normal but will check against mine tonight at full compression. It looks like it plunges too far but will verify.

Update: mine does the same. Compress arm fully until shock bottoms out, if it doesn't hit then you're good.
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Last edited by Jmuck69; 08-24-2015 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 08-24-2015, 01:01 PM   #15246
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Full droop looks normal but will check against mine tonight at full compression. It looks like it plunges too far but will verify.
Thanks. It looks like it plunges a bit too far to me as well, but I don't remember how it was before with the 4 gear and/or the MM rear arms. The B5RM plunges but stops with about a mm to spare. The left side on the B5M touches the diff nut and the right side gets close but barely doesn't touch the diff screw cover.
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Old 08-24-2015, 02:51 PM   #15247
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Eddie, the 1.4's are the real deal for the front of the B5M. I would highly recommend them.

Also look into the -2 akerman setting.
I've switched back/forth between the 1.4 x 3 & 1.6 x 2 pistons and can't tell much difference on the track. Ive even built one shock with each size and tested it with one of those Losi shock matching tools and the 1.4 compressed only very minimally more slowly.

So can a setup guru explain the differences and advantage to these 2 pistons?
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Old 08-24-2015, 03:53 PM   #15248
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Default 1.4 vs 1.6 Hole Pistons

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I've switched back/forth between the 1.4 x 3 & 1.6 x 2 pistons and can't tell much difference on the track. Ive even built one shock with each size and tested it with one of those Losi shock matching tools and the 1.4 compressed only very minimally more slowly.

So can a setup guru explain the differences and advantage to these 2 pistons?
I prefer the 1.4x3 all the way around. I can run a little lighter oil in the car if I am looking for more overall grip.

The 1.4x3 will have less overall dampening at low speed compression (Bumps and cornering) due more total surface area for the oil to pass through over the 1.6x2 hole design. However the 1.4x3 will pack up faster due to the smaller holes under high speed dampening (Landing).

This allows my car to ride better on bumpy track and run half weight lower shock oil on the car for more overall grip without chassis slapping off the jumps.

This is at least my findings with the difference between these two pistons.

Another factor to keep in mind is what pistons are you running... A 1.4x3 hole pistion from AE is a totally different piston and shock feel then one from say Schelle due to they way they fit the shock body! With the Schelle I run the half weight lower shock oil compared to the AE pistons... Just FYI

Good Luck.
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Old 08-24-2015, 03:53 PM   #15249
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I've switched back/forth between the 1.4 x 3 & 1.6 x 2 pistons and can't tell much difference on the track. Ive even built one shock with each size and tested it with one of those Losi shock matching tools and the 1.4 compressed only very minimally more slowly.

So can a setup guru explain the differences and advantage to these 2 pistons?
Pack
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:28 PM   #15250
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Is there any parts that break often I should stock up on? I've already snapped a front bulkhead, rear hub, rear ball stud mount, and one of the rear ball studs sheared off prior to that as well. Are these common problems?
For what I have done to my six week old buggy, should be laws against that kind of abuse. Twelve years away from anything rc car related, last go around was all on-road and no dirt work at all, so no jumps, landing and air time that was intentional. Getting the buggy to turn has not been too difficult, getting it to launch of the massive double and the triple so that it flies straight, has enough distance, ran into the face of the last jump numerous times and over shot the landing of the triple badly enough to one bounce into the concrete wall, never damaged anything but my pride. The kids get on the track with their short course 1/8th scale trucks and I break a front and rear arm after one of the sc trucks blows the infield, over a pipe and tags me as I am about to launch off the triple. I couldn't be any happier that this thing is holding it's settings well and not breaking plastics except in the hardest hits.


I am blown away how tough this buggy is, most of my previous rc vehicles would have had numerous breakages with just the short landings let alone flying the triple past the abrupt 90 into a concrete wall with good speed, enough that it will elicit commentary from the peanut gallery. Why my buggy has all of it's plastics except for a few locations that are highly subject to breakage or wear, this plastic is pretty tough and holds it's shape well, even when being abused.
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Old 08-24-2015, 05:09 PM   #15251
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For what I have done to my six week old buggy, should be laws against that kind of abuse. Twelve years away from anything rc car related, last go around was all on-road and no dirt work at all, so no jumps, landing and air time that was intentional. Getting the buggy to turn has not been too difficult, getting it to launch of the massive double and the triple so that it flies straight, has enough distance, ran into the face of the last jump numerous times and over shot the landing of the triple badly enough to one bounce into the concrete wall, never damaged anything but my pride. The kids get on the track with their short course 1/8th scale trucks and I break a front and rear arm after one of the sc trucks blows the infield, over a pipe and tags me as I am about to launch off the triple. I couldn't be any happier that this thing is holding it's settings well and not breaking plastics except in the hardest hits.


I am blown away how tough this buggy is, most of my previous rc vehicles would have had numerous breakages with just the short landings let alone flying the triple past the abrupt 90 into a concrete wall with good speed, enough that it will elicit commentary from the peanut gallery. Why my buggy has all of it's plastics except for a few locations that are highly subject to breakage or wear, this plastic is pretty tough and holds it's shape well, even when being abused.
Agreed. Haven't broken my b5m yet. One of the most durable cars i've ever had.
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Old 08-24-2015, 05:57 PM   #15252
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Only thing I've broken was a rear arm when I hit the opening in the wall at one of the local indoor tracks, which would break any 1:10 scale buggy.
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:04 PM   #15253
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I've switched back/forth between the 1.4 x 3 & 1.6 x 2 pistons and can't tell much difference on the track. Ive even built one shock with each size and tested it with one of those Losi shock matching tools and the 1.4 compressed only very minimally more slowly.

So can a setup guru explain the differences and advantage to these 2 pistons?
Pack is different. If it didn't make a difference for you, then perhaps you're having other issues with consistent lines, crashing, and staying smooth.

People also say the kashima shocks don't make a difference. Of course, if you're crashing constantly and can't hold a line, they don't have any impact.
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:05 PM   #15254
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Is there any parts that break often I should stock up on? I've already snapped a front bulkhead, rear hub, rear ball stud mount, and one of the rear ball studs sheared off prior to that as well. Are these common problems?
It's easy to blame the car, but there's another common denominator in all of those broken parts. Hint: It's the person whom assembled the car, and the person driving it.

For some reason, cars don't seem to break if you don't crash.
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:29 PM   #15255
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Pack is different. If it didn't make a difference for you, then perhaps you're having other issues with consistent lines, crashing, and staying smooth.

People also say the kashima shocks don't make a difference. Of course, if you're crashing constantly and can't hold a line, they don't have any impact.
Nope no problems driving semi-fast and consistent. Ive seen that video of Wildcat driving at SRS and I'm pretty sure i'd lap him twice in a 6 min main haha (jk wildcat).......Perhaps the problem is I've never really tried changing pistons at track to do back-to-back comparisons because I hate messing with those e-clips and having to take the shock eyelet off to get to the piston and reseting the shock lengths. Would be a good reason to get the new shock shafts perhaps.

But what exactly do people like better about the 3 x 1.4 pistons. Do they have more pack and jump better but with the smaller holes still give the traction of a bigger piston? Sorry if i sound like an imbecile, but I'm not the best set up person around and usually just copy a pro setup adjust based on the local conditions. I've ran 1.6s all around; 1.6s back/1.4's front; 1.4 all around; 1.4's back and the lap times and car feel is pretty much the same. Currently i'm sticking with 1.6's f/r. Hoping to stir up some setup discussion in here!
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