Krio

iTrader: (159)

The rear ball stud mount is a weak point and should be upgraded to aluminum. All your other issues aren't common as far as I know. Maybe add an aluminum front hinge pin brace to help with the bulkhead.

slashed

Ok cool. I had an aluminum ball stud mount to begin within until the stud sheared off. The only replacement I could get was a plastic one which just snapped. Having horrible luck here.

danny d

iTrader: (13)

I just ordered some, to me they look the same. and they are a third of the price of ae. I will let you know when they come in

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

slashed, are you running mod or stock? I honestly haven't seen a single B5 break in any way, shape or form since they were released. I'm even still running the original plastic rear camber mount. I'm definitely not trying to be a jerk but maybe turning the power down and making consistent laps without ANY crashing is your best bet. Unless you are just truly getting unlucky....that's a different story.

carcrazy699

iTrader: (49)

I was thinking the same thing. My B5 has been doing great since I got it with no issues. I can see breaking if your hard on it or running mod and tagging pipes or walls a lot.

MadRiderSD

Need some advise guys. I have a B5M Lite running Stock and I'm loving it but now I'm thinking of getting another B5M to run mod. Do you guys think its cost effective to get a complete kit or buy parts?

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Like buy it in parts? That's going to set you back like $4-500 in parts. Buy the kit.

BrandonBreh

iTrader: (2)

There really would be no point in selling a kit if it cost more than buying all the parts separate... So no, it's cheaper to buy a kit if you need the entire car.

carcrazy699

iTrader: (49)

Buy the kit its way cheaper

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

Buy a used kit, there are usually 2-3 on the For Sale forum every day.

slashed

I'm running stock. I have the usual crashes but I'm not running into walls or poles or anything. The thing that really blew my mind is when the ball stud sheared off. Half was in the aluminum mount and the other half still in the turnbuckle.

Vegaspilot

iTrader: (1)

Just added the 3 gear transmission to my B5M. Has the RM arms front and rear. Just curious...I notice that the drive shafts plunge right up to the point of bottoming out when the suspension is fully compressed. This normal?

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

nope, I have the 3 gear but with MM arms in the rear. the sweep diff between the RM and MM rear A arms is slight but this wouldn't affect wheel width. Can you snap a few pics showing at full droop and full compression as well as the hubs?

Eddie_E

I just drove my B5M Light for the first runs. I'm using most of the Rivkin OCRC setup except the front 3 hole pistons, Losi 27.5 oil in back and +1.5mm on the aluminuim ball stud washers (Rivkin is +2 and stock is +1). M4 Electrons in the rear and JC green Rippits up front.

The rear end is locked in and feels great. The front pushes in slow 180 corners enough that I have to stab the brake to turn. Should I cut loose the Rippits for Electron fronts or try to find a softer damping up front like 1.7 2 hole pistons with 35 wt? (using 1.6 with AE32 now) I'd rather not have to drop $16 on 1.4X3 pistons right now.

Medium high grip clay indoors.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Always start with tires since they're 90% of setup. The Electrons might be too locked in or the Rippits are not enough. Try Electron fronts to match the back first and go from there.