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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:40 AM   #15106
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Anyone know the difference between the B5r and B5m rear arms.
The rear motor arms will move your hubs forward a few mm
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:16 AM   #15107
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Do the turnbuckle lengths matter?
That's how I adjust my steering arc & toe. Mine are 26mm and 30mm between ball cups, but on the set up station, the steering arc angles and ackermann angle difference are equal on both side.
The length of a camberlink can have effects on the car. They should be equal.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:33 PM   #15108
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Is it a good idea to run aluminum rear hubs in stock?
Mostly just preference, i just recently got a b5m all setup for stock racing in trade for some mountain bike stuff (why I am on here) and it has the schelle aluminum rear hubs on it. They look very nice but if i were to build the car stock or mod I would usually run plastic rear hubs but thats just me and i have been out of the game for a loooong time.
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Old 08-16-2015, 02:52 PM   #15109
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Is there a company that makes machined shock bushings? Factory1 used to,but not sure they will have any in the future.
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Old 08-16-2015, 03:49 PM   #15110
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Is there a company that makes machined shock bushings? Factory1 used to,but not sure they will have any in the future.
None that I am aware of. Maybe message mantisworx?
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Old 08-16-2015, 08:28 PM   #15111
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Hi all,

Id like to hear from anyone who has made the switch from 4 to 3 gear, ideally those who run on carpet but clay drivers aswell.

Apparantly one of the benefits of the 3 gear is better braking power, whilst this sounds great in theory id prefer not to spend the money only to find out its barley noticeable if at all.

Can anyone out there say without doubt the 3 gear provides increased braking power?

Thanks all !!
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:08 PM   #15112
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Hi all,

Id like to hear from anyone who has made the switch from 4 to 3 gear, ideally those who run on carpet but clay drivers aswell.

Apparantly one of the benefits of the 3 gear is better braking power, whilst this sounds great in theory id prefer not to spend the money only to find out its barley noticeable if at all.

Can anyone out there say without doubt the 3 gear provides increased braking power?

Thanks all !!
i wouldn't say it gives more braking power. it doesn't transfer as much weight to the front when braking so it is more stable under braking.

if you're running high grip carpet/astro, 3 gear is a no brainer. especially since the cost to convert to 3 gear is minimal if you use AE parts.

from schelle's website:

From Kurt "Coach" Wenger...A quick lesson on 3-gear.... I personally believe the difference in drag is nothing compared to the difference in car handling. 3-gear won't give you the feeling of more power.

There are 2 things the gearbox (and thus the motor orientation) change on the handling:

1) torque effect: When you hit the gas, with a 4-gear, the motor pitches the car to the rear, adding grip on power. The 3-gear orientation pitches the car towards the front, resisting weight transfer. The opposite is true on decelleration/brakes. 3-gear makes the motor forces resist the natural direction of weight transfer

2) gyro effect: When you turn, the 4-gear orientation makes the motor add to the lean of the car, while the 3-gear orientation resists lean.

Thus, when you drive the 3-gear, the car feels less reactive/more mellow, with less on-power traction. This is generally good for extremely high grip tracks, or drivers that want the car to stay flat in the turns....3-gear generally stabilizes the car but you need to make a few changes to get enough rear grip. I wouldn't recommend it on a loose or low-grip track.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:43 PM   #15113
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i wouldn't say it gives more braking power. it doesn't transfer as much weight to the front when braking so it is more stable under braking.

if you're running high grip carpet/astro, 3 gear is a no brainer. especially since the cost to convert to 3 gear is minimal if you use AE parts.

from schelle's website:

From Kurt "Coach" Wenger...A quick lesson on 3-gear.... I personally believe the difference in drag is nothing compared to the difference in car handling. 3-gear won't give you the feeling of more power.

There are 2 things the gearbox (and thus the motor orientation) change on the handling:

1) torque effect: When you hit the gas, with a 4-gear, the motor pitches the car to the rear, adding grip on power. The 3-gear orientation pitches the car towards the front, resisting weight transfer. The opposite is true on decelleration/brakes. 3-gear makes the motor forces resist the natural direction of weight transfer

2) gyro effect: When you turn, the 4-gear orientation makes the motor add to the lean of the car, while the 3-gear orientation resists lean.

Thus, when you drive the 3-gear, the car feels less reactive/more mellow, with less on-power traction. This is generally good for extremely high grip tracks, or drivers that want the car to stay flat in the turns....3-gear generally stabilizes the car but you need to make a few changes to get enough rear grip. I wouldn't recommend it on a loose or low-grip track.
Very interesting, thanks very much. I think Im going to have to give it a go for the price. I will post my findings here for those interested.

Still keen to hear from anyone else and their experience...
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:25 AM   #15114
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None that I am aware of. Maybe message mantisworx?
think t-works just came out with some
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:10 AM   #15115
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Very interesting, thanks very much. I think Im going to have to give it a go for the price. I will post my findings here for those interested.

Still keen to hear from anyone else and their experience...
Medium traction wet clay track, just switched to 3 gear and ran the quickest personal lap times yet with a mod 8.5t. Didn't notice a big difference in on power traction but the car feels more neutral, was able to pitch it in corners more consistently and hold a better line in sweepers.

There's a couple straightaways in current layout that you can hammer the car into and I like the fact the nose stayed more level and could keep the hammer down while still having some decent steering. I'd say win win for med-high bite tracks.
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:10 AM   #15116
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Isn't that the never ending question and variable? What is considered med vs. high grip. Low grip is easy to figure out.
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:45 AM   #15117
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Isn't that the never ending question and variable? What is considered med vs. high grip. Low grip is easy to figure out.
and also how consistent that grip is. i've raced on a surface that can go from low-medium, medium, medium-high depending on when it's watered.
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:09 AM   #15118
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Ok, stupid question Monday.

What is the difference between regular and shiny pucks, other than one is shiny and the other is not. Why is one for stock and the other is for mod?
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:11 AM   #15119
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grip levels are subjective. And yes, often the amount of water and when it was watered greatly change the traction levels. Drives from out of state came to cactus and Nats, and comments that they had never seen traction like this on clay. Way above what they are use to. And they always thought of their home tracks as high bite...
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:11 AM   #15120
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Ok, stupid question Monday.

What is the difference between regular and shiny pucks, other than one is shiny and the other is not. Why is one for stock and the other is for mod?
steel vs aluminum....
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