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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:44 AM   #15016
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I run a b5m light w/ 4 gear on a really low traction outdoor track and it's great.

You'll need an idler gear, idler pin, idler bearings, heavy top shaft, heavy top shaft bearings, heavy top shaft thrust tube, 4 gear motor plate, and 4 gear gear cover.

EDIT: The heavy top shaft items won't be needed if using a V2 4 gear gear box. I had a V1 laying around and those are the parts I had to use.

Wayne
the new v2 4 gear case uses the same topshaft and bearings as
the b5m lite 3 gear
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:49 AM   #15017
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the new v2 4 gear case uses the same topshaft and bearings as
the b5m lite 3 gear
Might be a stupid question but is there a difference between the new and old topshaft?
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:50 AM   #15018
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Hi all,
I plan to build a car for low grip tracks
Do you think that B5M lite with a 4 gear box is a good idea ?
What part do I need exactly, a 4 gear box and an idler gear?
Thank's for your help

4 gear box v2 (so you don't need to change the layshaft)

You might want to consider getting the brass C and D mounts for the rear to add more weight, and maybe even run a square or saddle pack.
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:08 AM   #15019
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Might be a stupid question but is there a difference between the new and old topshaft?
Yes. the shaft diameter where the bearings go. 5mm vs 6mm. That is why they use different bearings
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:27 AM   #15020
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I gotta tell ya, I really did not like saddle at all in my b5m. I felt like the car had more traction with a shorty.

The mid point for front to rear weight distribution is about in the middle of the battery area, so if you run a shorty, the car is lighter, but the weight is more toward the rear. With the saddle, the car is heavier, and there will be more weight at the rear of the car than with a shorty, but there is more weight forward on the front tires too, and that will make it feel more loose in my experience.

I run on a very slippery at times outdoor track and I run a light chassis with 4 gear and shorty all the way back and plastic C and D plates. I couldn't be happier with my car. I think people should really explore other setup options on their cars before they start slapping weight back there. I've done the weight thing and the setup thing (heck I slapped an oz of lead in the back) and honestly, setup changes had far more impact.

I've found that running the hubs in the "half hole longer B hub spot" really allows the car to rotate more entering a corner (instead of feeling like the car pushes) but then it has a lot more traction as you start to exit a corner. In other words it feels hooked up and confident in the right places. The standard A hole on the hubs makes the car feel like an old broken rear motor car to me--pushy on entry and then loose/coming around if you get on it a bit much. I also run my shocks all the way in at the back tower, and +2 (up) no washers on the brace for pretty low roll center. It's VERY confidence inspiring outdoors in loamy to dusty to grooved conditions.

Wayne
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Old 08-12-2015, 10:07 AM   #15021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I gotta tell ya, I really did not like saddle at all in my b5m. I felt like the car had more traction with a shorty.

The mid point for front to rear weight distribution is about in the middle of the battery area, so if you run a shorty, the car is lighter, but the weight is more toward the rear. With the saddle, the car is heavier, and there will be more weight at the rear of the car than with a shorty, but there is more weight forward on the front tires too, and that will make it feel more loose in my experience.

I run on a very slippery at times outdoor track and I run a light chassis with 4 gear and shorty all the way back and plastic C and D plates. I couldn't be happier with my car. I think people should really explore other setup options on their cars before they start slapping weight back there. I've done the weight thing and the setup thing (heck I slapped an oz of lead in the back) and honestly, setup changes had far more impact.

I've found that running the hubs in the "half hole longer B hub spot" really allows the car to rotate more entering a corner (instead of feeling like the car pushes) but then it has a lot more traction as you start to exit a corner. In other words it feels hooked up and confident in the right places. The standard A hole on the hubs makes the car feel like an old broken rear motor car to me--pushy on entry and then loose/coming around if you get on it a bit much. I also run my shocks all the way in at the back tower, and +2 (up) no washers on the brace for pretty low roll center. It's VERY confidence inspiring outdoors in loamy to dusty to grooved conditions.

Wayne


do you think you could pm me or post your entire set-up here? Sounds like you have same conditions i do.
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Old 08-12-2015, 10:39 AM   #15022
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+1
Really interested by your set up
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:08 AM   #15023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5tone View Post
+1
Really interested by your set up
+2 Me also
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:11 AM   #15024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5tone View Post
+1
Really interested by your set up
+2
Would love to see that setup. Also which inserts are u running 3+1?
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:43 AM   #15025
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+3, me very interested too.

I recently put on the Brass C and D mounts in the rear and an Exotek Alum Wing mount on the rear to help with weight at the back to reduce the out of corner fishtailing for more forward bite.

I run the large brick square pack and have the Factory RC strap and will be looking at the Shorty packs.

But it is just competing with the Rear Motor cars out there on outdoor tracks.
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:44 AM   #15026
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-1 Not interested in the setup.
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:01 PM   #15027
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I'd like to see it too. I have a wet track setup that I could post up but it's really out there.
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:09 PM   #15028
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Anyone know how the mip eco top shaft lines up with CB cut gears?

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/mip-17....p15080/p449867

It says it has less contact and just wondering if the actual teeth are narrower to one side or center? I'm just afraid if its off to one side there wont be enough tooth contact area...

Edit: running mm 3gear if it matters.
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:10 PM   #15029
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I am interested in the setup. Sounds just like my track. The car does push and is a bit loose coming out of the corners.

Please post up for us or fill out a setup sheet and post it!
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Old 08-12-2015, 05:13 PM   #15030
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So I broke in my diff but never got it to stop feeling gritty. I tightened the diff to the point where i could not longer move the left wheel by hand (while holding the right tire and spur). I alternated holding one wheel while giving it a bit of throttle. It felt the same as it did before I started and I still could not turn the left tire by hand while holding the spur and opposite tire. I tested the slipper by holding both wheels and it sounded like the diff barked. I kept tightening the diff several times in 1/8 increments, breaking it in, testing the slipper in between each and so far it still sounds like its barking.

I don't know how far I should tighten it because its really close to being tightened all the way and yet it still sounds like its slipping... Been doing it for several hours now....
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