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Old 01-02-2017, 04:26 PM
  #8761  
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2 question regarding the rear cva mod. If you want to use aluminum rear hubs, would you use the ones for say the 22 2wd buggy instead of the plastic ones? Also, do you still use the stock 22-4 rear wheel hexes when doing this mod? Thanks gentlemen.
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Old 01-02-2017, 04:55 PM
  #8762  
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I started running a new-to-me 22-4 1.0 this weekend and it's super fun to drive. After the 3rd pack or so I started noticing a high pitched chirping/buzzing noise coming from the car when launching up a jump or powering out of a corner. It's been years since I've raced anything so I'm not sure what to look for, but I set up and broke in both diffs and set up the slipper per the TLR videos I've seen out there. It only happens at full throttle and right as the buggy is leaving the face of the jump. Belts are old of course but don't look worn, and the pulley teeth don't seem rounded.
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Old 01-03-2017, 06:23 AM
  #8763  
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Originally Posted by altitudelow
I started running a new-to-me 22-4 1.0 this weekend and it's super fun to drive. After the 3rd pack or so I started noticing a high pitched chirping/buzzing noise coming from the car when launching up a jump or powering out of a corner. It's been years since I've raced anything so I'm not sure what to look for, but I set up and broke in both diffs and set up the slipper per the TLR videos I've seen out there. It only happens at full throttle and right as the buggy is leaving the face of the jump. Belts are old of course but don't look worn, and the pulley teeth don't seem rounded.
Take a look at the top front belt cover. If it does not have a + on it. good chance is your front belt is skipping when your on throttle hard. The + sign is a little longer housing that tightens the front belt to keep it from skipping or jumping teeth. It comes standard on the 2.0 car and came out as an upgrade for the 1.0
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:36 AM
  #8764  
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I found hard braking resulted in front belt issues more then it slipping under acceleration. If it is slipping under acceleration this is typically rear belt from my experience. If your belt was skipping I highly recommend replacing he pullies as well.
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Old 01-07-2017, 09:13 AM
  #8765  
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Ordered a few parts to get this car set up. Ordered the rear cva's (the ones for the 22-4, not the full 2.0 rear mod), and the front "+" belt cover. I'm going to put a Viper VTX10R BE esc, Team Powers Actinium 7.5 motor, and Spektrum 6040 servo in. The chassis has already been modded to run a shorty. I bought the car from a member here new/assembled/never run but unfortunately didn't have the manual so I'll be downloading it. Plan on doing a full tear down and reassembly to familiarize myself with the car and setup. Will be running on medium sized/medium grip/indoor without any really huge jumps. Any extra tips (shock oil, pistons, etc) to get a good baseline setup would be greatly appreciated. New to 4wd buggy, so please be gentle. Lol
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Old 01-07-2017, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by King DORK
2 question regarding the rear cva mod. If you want to use aluminum rear hubs, would you use the ones for say the 22 2wd buggy instead of the plastic ones? Also, do you still use the stock 22-4 rear wheel hexes when doing this mod? Thanks gentlemen.
If you use the 22 2wd rear hubs with the appropriate axles you should use 22T front hexes for rear 22-4 hexes.
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:01 PM
  #8767  
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Originally Posted by ryan432greening
If you use the 22 2wd rear hubs with the appropriate axles you should use 22T front hexes for rear 22-4 hexes.
Thanks for explaining that.
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:53 PM
  #8768  
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Default new 22 gear diff

Any chance that the new 22 2wd gear diff will fit in this car?
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:56 PM
  #8769  
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Originally Posted by SealclubberGT
Any chance that the new 22 2wd gear diff will fit in this car?
That was one of my first thoughts too, since it looks like the main gear is interchangeable with the belt pulley from the 22-4 2.0. But comparing the manual for the 22-4 2.0 with the 22 2WD gear diff manual, looks like the 2WD diff is too wide.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:18 PM
  #8770  
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Originally Posted by SealclubberGT
Any chance that the new 22 2wd gear diff will fit in this car?
Originally Posted by DJPod
That was one of my first thoughts too, since it looks like the main gear is interchangeable with the belt pulley from the 22-4 2.0. But comparing the manual for the 22-4 2.0 with the 22 2WD gear diff manual, looks like the 2WD diff is too wide.
The 2wd is a modded version of the 22-4 2.0 diffs, which we had to make wider for the 2wd trannies.
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:27 PM
  #8771  
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I am running the kit setup on the 2.0 and have gobs of steering. Will heavier front oil in the gear diff help or do I go lower?

It would make sense to put heavier oil in the front for less steering since tightening a ball diff In front takes away steering
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Old 01-18-2017, 01:34 PM
  #8772  
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I like 50K front and rear to make the car more stable. Also like 3 deg of rear toe which will help with some exit steering stability.
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:01 PM
  #8773  
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This weekend in the same heat I broke an axle and snapped a front belt. In total, I racked up a 150 dollar parts bill (replacement plus a spare set of belts and rear CVAs. Rollers are currently selling for 100ish dollars, so they aren't worth much.

The track I run this car at will be closed for good in a couple months and in my opinion the 22-4 won't be a great loose dirt outdoor car trying to keep dust out of the belt drives.

Thinking I just need to part it all out and sell my spares and the remaining good pieces off the chassis as a parts lot.

Sound about right?
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Old 01-22-2017, 05:19 PM
  #8774  
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Belts are completely sealed. Why do you think it will not be a good loose dirt car?

With a 1.0 you should upgrade the front tunnel cover to the + one with the zero side belts and you should get great life out of the front belt.

Do what you want but car is solid on all surfaces set up properly.
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:11 PM
  #8775  
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Yep. Zero issues running on loose dirt.

Belt tunnels are always clean when I pull them apart.
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