uclabruins89

iTrader: (5)

Did you move the shock collars down at all? Sorry gotta ask haha

uclabruins89

iTrader: (5)

Mine are like 50-60%. I only bleed once

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I will play around with my shocks tomorrow but I have to say I like about a 50/50 rebound. Standard shock build is probably 25/75. It makes the kit feel more in the dirt IMO. (neutral in the roll of the ride height). They seem to resist airing up better. The kit will go over bumps and light risers with more stability. If you note the kit on the track the tires really never look like there bouncing or tapping on small ruts/bumps. Aside from wash boards that is. And I like the feel of how it makes the kit feel low and tight in the air off jumps. That's not the weight of the kit making it feel like that alone. In my on road days we could achieve 25/75 50/50 etc. by the amount of foam we would put in the cap between the bladder. 12mm shocks are prone to this. Not sure why but bladders could be an option? I have been setting the ride height with the lid on ready to race.

I will add that these seals are very good. The fine tips on the inner part of the ring allow for a very smooth stroke. As they wear the ring swells and will over all stay smooth longer then the average ring. After they swell that vacuum will dissipate some. And can be a good gauge on when to replace them.

braderb

I never paid any attention to this on my scte. Just checked rebound

I did notice the more you bleed, the more vacuum up action you get. No youtube video addresses this. Just rebound.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I'll try this with the TLR shocks tomorrow and you guys know what happens. But I ran my AE shocks with about a 25/75 rebound just cause the kit handles better.
They were having the same issue with the Ae BB's So I did this vid. It worked for the AE shocks. There's a lot of ways to bleed shocks but this worked with the AE BB.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GitM0-hWFgc

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Here's a great vid and we are pretty much on the same page with pistons with our TLR shocks.. It demonstrates the difference in the shock and the opposite effect. Most likely why we experience the suction from the bottom due to it is actually working just the opposite. raz is pretty hip on demo's. I highly recommend you watch all of his RC vids....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU_0wvD2m7E

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

I like the damper to have about the same suck-back at beginning and end stroke.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I found that the nature of the shock is to suck back in so I let it. And it really is a lot smoother off power in and out of the turns. Add that to the right oil and spring combo you can corner like a bandit. Its a natural when it comes to the pack, so the roll is better if you leave the suction in there when you bleed them.

uclabruins89

iTrader: (5)

Its the nature of all bleeder cap shocks to pull the shaft back. They have no rebound normally, and you do your best to limit the recoil of the shaft.

I will test this out tomorrow to see which way but I believe if you put the bleeder screw in quickly after pushing the shaft all the way in you get less (or more) shaft recoil. I'm not sure if its less or more but i'll try tomorrow. The alternative to as quickly as possibly putting it in would be to wait maybe 3-5 seconds before putting it in.

Also as fair warning I have never read the advice above anywhere, nor heard it anywhere. It is my own personal experience with the SCTE shocks.

Bleeding the screws twice causes the shafts to recoil even more for me.... which would support my theory that by putting the screws in immediately (like the very instant) you finish pushing the shaft up will limit the recoil effect.

rc-racer75

iTrader: (27)

I got my new airtronics MT-4S today. Has the same firmware as the M12 and backlit LCD. Got it in my 22-4. Can't wait until march 12th here I come 702rcraceway. Going to try the airtronics vortex esc too. Can change esc functions from the radio.

bergie33

iTrader: (49)

If you are only getting 14mm ride height, remove the shocks and links and make sure ALL of the suspension parts are moving freely, with no binding at all. If there is some binding it will mess up your ability to obtain a decent ride height.

braderb

Thanks
UN4RACING, uclabruins89 and bergie33

I do have binding in the front. My local hs told me "That's because its new, unused. Binding will stop once on the track."

I took out the grub screws. Back is super loose.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Awesome....
Chalk one up for bergie33 he got that one.... some times the simplest things are the easiest to over look....

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Apparently you have to power cycle the rx to have the changed esc functions. That's what I read in another thread anyway.

bergie33

iTrader: (49)

I wouldn't necessarily call it "new, unused". It could be, but could also be something too tight, or some stray threadlock. If that gets into any of the pivot points, it will bind it up.