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Old 02-24-2014, 04:04 PM   #3526
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Originally Posted by uclabruins89 View Post
There are no quirks with this car. The only "quirk" everyone is complaining about is smashing a wall and having an A-arm break.. I haven't once heard of someone breaking an a-arm or hinge pin when they weren't crashing/smashing a wall/smashing into the back of someone.

And there are no "quirks" with the ball diffs, even tho a lotta people complaining about them. Those having trouble (including myself) probably dont have vast experience with ball diffs.

Hands down this car is very fast, easy to drive, and forgiving.
Whoa man! I didn't mean to offend anyone, I dig the car and I know they all have little things to them especially when they first come out. I'm just going to wait until an updated version comes out. I just thought they looked great out on the track this weekend and it had me leaning that way regardless of broken bits and pieces. Just puttin out my 2 cents, I'm a tlr guy at heart.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:06 PM   #3527
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What length sensor wire is need for the 22-4 going to use an orion speedo?
I just ordered a 70mm for my orion setup in the 22-4. It should reach just fine, especially since the Orion r10 pro has 2 sensor ports (one on either side).

I didn't look but looks like 70mm was the shortest available option (I'm sure someone somewhere makes shorter). I bought a SMC 70mm sensor cable from smc-racing.net they are only like $2.50 each
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:17 PM   #3528
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Whoa man! I didn't mean to offend anyone, I dig the car and I know they all have little things to them especially when they first come out. I'm just going to wait until an updated version comes out. I just thought they looked great out on the track this weekend and it had me leaning that way regardless of broken bits and pieces. Just puttin out my 2 cents, I'm a tlr guy at heart.
I wasn't trying to post an angry reply at all man and i wasnt offended one bit just letting you know this car is fast and great outta the box. I've been monitoring the forum for a while and was just letting you know that I havent seen any real "quirks", only seen people breaking when they crash
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:53 PM   #3529
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I know you can use the 22 shock shaft, but I also heard something about using a rear SCTE outer hinge pin? Can anyone confirm that this works and are you using it with both the nuts on the end?
Yeah, you need two 5-40 locknuts on each end.
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:00 PM   #3530
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Originally Posted by uclabruins89 View Post
I just ordered a 70mm for my orion setup in the 22-4. It should reach just fine, especially since the Orion r10 pro has 2 sensor ports (one on either side).

I didn't look but looks like 70mm was the shortest available option (I'm sure someone somewhere makes shorter). I bought a SMC 70mm sensor cable from smc-racing.net they are only like $2.50 each
Ok thanks.
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:15 PM   #3531
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I know you can use the 22 shock shaft, but I also heard something about using a rear SCTE outer hinge pin? Can anyone confirm that this works and are you using it with both the nuts on the end?
Yes this does work as long as you own a dremel. you have to trim the bumper just a hair to clear the nut. Also with the shock shaft thing, you can put a nut on the front and cut the back off flush and re install the grub screws, only put them in until they touch the shock shaft. You dont have to wind them all they in, just far enough so the shaft wont pull out!
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:32 PM   #3532
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Any kit has kinks and they all break. I try not to read too much into things posted on the forums about issues, because it's a very small percentage of people posting compared to total people that own the car. I'm very happy with mine and don't have any quirks on my list yet.

They sound awesome down the straight, like a mod touring car! I could hardly hear mine out there.
You did Good this weekend Ty, there was alot of people glad to see your crew there. Your 22-4 was pretty hooked up, in fact i think all of them were ha ha
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:02 PM   #3533
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Originally Posted by toepush View Post
What length sensor wire is need for the 22-4 going to use an orion speedo?
Short.
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:25 PM   #3534
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Ok thanx. What will all that do for steering then?
I have not had to chase any steering setups yet so I have not played with the akerman. But usually with CVD's the in side wheel will have a wobble. With this kit I'm not sure if it will cause the universals are smooooooth. It will mess with bump steer some to. So you may have to counter that with shims or no shims? Less anchorman will have a longer steering link and is a faster stroke so it will be more twitchy. More is a shorter steering link and is more stable and I think it feels more linear and I feel more connected to the kit. Less inner wheel wobble to. On this kit I don't have any to speak of with the stock setting.
Some of this is pretty tricky so really the best thing to do is watch the clock and try it both ways. The sweep is more in line with the a-arms using less if I'm not mistaken and more is less in line with the a-arm. That's most kits. But with this it looks like all it will do is change the speed of the stroke to full lock. I'm not a very good teacher so these may help. And I may be a bit off but I think with this kit the standard set up is really as good as it gets.
Here are some links I have used over the years of racing.
Advanced
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

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http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racing/rc-tuning-guide/

Basic guide to understanding it better.
http://www.rctek.com/technical/handl...principle.html
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:33 PM   #3535
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Yeah, I wondered if that was the theory - a little flex somewhere. I was going to get the AL because I saw that UN had cracked his at the square thing (but not the akerman arm). I guess I'll need to buy an extra "akerman arm". Too bad it comes with so many other things in the package!
Actually that was another 22-4 at the track. He clipped the wall and it cracked. We both ordered the aluminum set and they are on back order... No matter what we need a weak link in the steering so I plan to run the plastic arm. Even if they offer an aluminum one. It would be nice if we could buy those separate. I'm stocked up on them none the less...LOL
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:17 PM   #3536
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What tires/compound and inserts are you running?
Try this set up. Last night myself and another 22-4 finished 1-2 in quals and on the podium. This set up was a lap on the field in quals and the main all night long. Then we had a team race. While my partner was throttling the kit I steered. We were again a lap on the field in the main. Medium bite track.
If you take the time to try it let me know how it works.??
This set will give you great on and off power steering.

But start this set up with one difference. Run the front lower shock position on the inner hole of the a-arm. If you like it drive it. If not move the front lower out and it will hair pin turns faster and give you more on power steering.
Not sure if you have any but the tires are the key to any set up. but any other tire may actually make it better?
Well i tried this setup tonight with the exception of the stock caster block and i couldn't get it to hook up in the rear with the yellow sway bar , went down to the white and it was better , took the sway bar off and it was great , i guess the track i race at is just too loose to run the sway bar , i am running IONs M4 for tires front and rear
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:30 PM   #3537
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Well i tried this setup tonight with the exception of the stock caster block and i couldn't get it to hook up in the rear with the yellow sway bar , went down to the white and it was better , took the sway bar off and it was great , i guess the track i race at is just too loose to run the sway bar , i am running IONs M4 for tires front and rear
Well shucks at least your getting it dialed in. You may want to try a tire with more tread. Our dirt is black top soil and has an orange peel kind of texture. I'm guessing your track must be pretty smooth. I tried the typos at out track but the side wall was just to short. I like the rebar cause the rear can roll more with more of the tread being on the side wall.

Some times when I am chasing front or rear push/bite I will mix compounds. Like if I want some push to get rid of over steer I will run a soft in the front and a super soft in the rear....
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:33 PM   #3538
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BTW some times the softer compound is crap unless the pins are large. You may want to try green or m3/2 and see if that works? The stiffer pins will dig better.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:38 PM   #3539
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I've gotta say...I wouldn't normally post this...but it is too good to pass up...

Quote:
I have not played with the anchorman...



Ackerman...



http://www.rctek.com/technical/handl...principle.html


I don't spend much time messing with it either...but on other vehicles I've raced, I've seen big steering returns when you get it right...mostly in low speed corners....the good news for us is that TLR has got it pretty close...changing a few shims here or there on the steering ball links should cause some change in the steering for us...but I suppose we would have to make BIG changes here to really screw up the handling....

Ackerman changes should have the greatest effect in slow corners at mid corner where you are at full steering lock...
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:40 PM   #3540
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I've gotta say...I wouldn't normally post this...but it is too good to pass up...






Ackerman...



http://www.rctek.com/technical/handl...principle.html
Okay well I really should learn to spell...LOL I am turrable about that....UHG One time I screwed up so bad a fella put it in his sig.... How bout that link though? Pretty good huh...LOL
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