radek

at one paint? sleepdeprivationftw

nitrousdave

iTrader: (36)

Sounds like you need to put a washer or two behind the slipper to space it out. I've had to do this on a couple of mine.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

Does anyone have a good setup for 17.5 low- medium/dusty/bumpy?

Took mine out for its maiden voyage. I like it , has a lot more steering than I thought but so much that it would swing the back end out.

Thanks in advance. Has brass pivot.

2hundy

It's definitely not one of the screws. The slipper plate is making contact with the motor plate in its opening.

I've spaced it out 0.5mm.

I still think there's something else wrong since the motor temps are still high, >80c after 5 mins.

towertsk

iTrader: (6)

I haven't had a chance to read the rules yet, but is the -2.5 chassis legal for stock 17.5 racing?

nitrousdave

iTrader: (36)

.5mm isn't very much, it could be rubbing still. I'd take a marker and color the back of the slipper plate and then reassemble and see if it's still rubbing.

mxnickj

iTrader: (51)

Well, right now its a toss up if I'll be doing rear or mid motor. For the summer and the few races I might do outdoors I would think rear motor but for the winter where I plan on using the car the most, most people at my track are running mid motor, except for a select few. Would the -2.5 chassis really be beneficial for rear motor? Also, what brass weights (if any) are suggested for rear motor?

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

Is the top shaft bearing fully seated? I built my mid transmission and it was tight. Found out the bearing wasn't seated all the way. Is the transmission free, does it spin well?

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

If you are running 17.5, than it can be beneficial for rm also for less weight. With outdoor I would probably run the stock chassis. I ran no weights in rm, but they do offer a set to go above the transmission if you want to add some weight. Once you go indoors, I would run the -2.5 chassis.

mxnickj

iTrader: (51)

You mean indoors run the -2.5 chassis in RM or MM??

RedBMaster

iTrader: (7)

Phew, had a blast this weekend during Winter Champs at Thunder RC in Nashville. TLR 22's took 5 of the 10 spots in the A main! I took 3rd on the grid with an excellent last chance qualifier run, check it out http://goo.gl/iisI7o . I got a little too excited on the second turn off the main and turned in early to find the tube. The car was fast enough to get me caught back up to 3rd-5th place cars, but another run in with the tubes knocked me back down to bottom. The rest up the guys running TLR 22's did a great job and took 3rd through 6th! This weekend was a great testament to how amazing these cars really are.

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

Yes, indoors I would run the -2.5 on either one.

Andrew Gray

iTrader: (4)

I would run the -2.5mm chassis in either RM or MM configuration. When racing indoors this season at Bumps & Jumps I started out with a RM for 17.5 but went to a MM car and MM was much better(both w/ -2.5 chassis). Unless your track is seriously low bite and bumpy I would go with MM. The -2.5 chassis and bell cranks really liven up the car.

sduffy77

iTrader: (24)

So some bonehead in a 4x4 SC jumped the pipe during practice at the last race and hit my son's 22 buggy head on at full speed. The chassis actually buckled and twisted. I did my best to bend it back so he can race the main but it was pretty bad.
He has a 1.0 buggy with lots of upgrades.

My question is can he use the new 2.0 -2.5mm light weight chassis? If so would I need to buy extra parts to get it to work? Also where can I find one?

Plz PM me cuz I'm not subscribed to this thread.

Andrew Gray

iTrader: (4)

In order to use the -2.5mm chassis(TLR331014) on a 1.0 there isn't anything that needs to be changed. However if you buggy still has all the 1.0 geometry on it I would highly recommend putting on the TLR bell cranks(TLR2311027) and 2.0 5* caster blocks(TLR234006) at a minimum.