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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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Old 12-19-2013, 05:32 PM
  #4906  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
are you guys who have been running without the waterfall brace for a while, have you had any issues with the chassis bending or tweaking? I really want to try it but I'm worried that I will bend it.
Been running without it since Dustin ran it at JCONCEPTS race in MA. No issues. Been running indoor and outdoor on a big track.
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by rcman182006
would it be the same if one was to run a 1.0 w/ the 2.0 Geometry updates?
If u put the spindles carriers arms steering rack in 1.0 car it is the same as a 2.0 car. So you can do the same modifications!
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:57 PM
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The best thing to happen to 22 based mid motor vehicles would be a more compact(shorter) transmission. The motor is too far from the axle centerline. Having both a RM 22 and MM22 along with a MM 22sct, I couldnt belive the different feel from a Centro or the Tamiya mm I drove. Compact trans makes a better balanced car and transmits more force to the rear wheels for forward bite.

Maybe mbtoolmaker35 can do this? Obviously alloy not brass.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:07 PM
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Building my Vega 22 2.0 tonight!
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:26 PM
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Sexy
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
When you removed your waterfall, did you happen to cut off the part of the waterfall that goes between the transmission and motor plate and put a screw back in there? If not, you are allowing too much flex in the motor plate and that twisting is what is causing your issue. You HAVE to put a screw in that open hole when you remove the waterfall.
I cut my waterfall so it's still there but only to hide the wires
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:45 PM
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do I need a hotwire or be ok with out one?
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mbtoolmaker35
If u put the spindles carriers arms steering rack in 1.0 car it is the same as a 2.0 car. So you can do the same modifications!
awesome, anyone remember what page the Kyosho rack mod was on, was gonna do that since the Exotek is silly expensive lol
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rcman182006
awesome, anyone remember what page the Kyosho rack mod was on, was gonna do that since the Exotek is silly expensive lol
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12769500-post4246.html
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mbtoolmaker35
Thanks man. Just bolted up the rocket racing anti-squat block and the camber plate / rear brass bulkhead. Very nice machining job on them. Can't wait to run tomorrow.
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rcman182006
awesome, anyone remember what page the Kyosho rack mod was on, was gonna do that since the Exotek is silly expensive lol
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12769500-post4246.html
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Old 12-20-2013, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie
Thanks man. Just bolted up the rocket racing anti-squat block and the camber plate / rear brass bulkhead. Very nice machining job on them. Can't wait to run tomorrow.

Report back with results. Very interested in what you thought.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Naters
To Clarify Ryan, I need to take down the surface where the ball stud is usually mounted to and then re-install the low mount ball stud, correct?
That is correct.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by vito
do I need a hotwire or be ok with out one?
Almost everything is adjustable with the lights on the esc.
Hotwire does make it much easier, and you can fine tune it more.
Also you can update the esc if needed. If you already have a tablet or laptop its worth the money.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:45 AM
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i run on a farliy large indoor track,long straight but can get tight on the infield,need a good starting point for 13.5 and 7.5 motor. i run at ierc
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