kufman

iTrader: (6)

Ok, I know I will take some criticism for this thread but it is a topic that I feel deserves some attention.

Should we be using BEC swtiches in our electric cars or should they be banned? Before everyone goes crazy, here is my reasoning. BEC switches, as they work right now, do not remove the battery voltage from the internals of the ESC. This, in my opinion, creates a false sense of security and leads to problems with safety. Case in point, I have heard of several racers forget to unplug their batteries after the mains on race night and then proceed to take their cars home and let them sit for several days with the batteries plugged in. I know it is a mistake to leave the battery in the car, but that is a different story. In a couple cases it has led to the death of a lipo battery. Considering that lipos don't always die a graceful death, this is a real safety hazard. This is not a new thing. Novak's trouble shooting guide for their old brushed controllers mentioned that an ESC might need fixing if it ran with the switch in the off position. This would indicated FET failure and having the switch turned off does nothing to remove battery power from the power fets in either type of ESC.

So.... What does everybody think?

Dave H

Valid point, but I don’t see at least any of the possible solutions I can think of being viable. I don’t think no switch is all that practical for those most in need of the solution, for those who prefer it’s a simple enough mod, as some do already. More experienced guys I suspect would immediately bypass any power section switch, I probably would.

Zerodefect

Just unplug the battery at the end of the day. Noone uses a seperate stepping regulator anymore. Problem solved. Regulators are spotty at best, and a major source of frustration for more racers than I can count.

2s 4x4 SCT cars use direct lipo. 2 small wires connected from +/- on the ESC to the red/black servo wires. Unplug the red wire on the ESC. The servo lead backfeeds the Rx. No load travels through the Rx.

You can also do the same thing with 4s 1/8th scale. Just tap the batteries balance wires to get 2s voltage directly to your servo. But I don't do that.

The downside to either of those: Unplugging your battery is your switch. But you could use a switch. The Tekin RS switch is a hardy switch that should be able to handle the load of a Hitec servo. I haven't tested that. But then you have 2 switches.

I allways direct Lipo 4x4 SCT and monster servos in 5th scale or airplanes. But in E buggy and 2wd. I don't bother cause I use Hitec 7940 or 7954 servos. Neither draw much power and are perfectly speedy on 6.0v ESC BEC's.

My Deans connector ends up being my switch in 4x4SCT. I remove the switch from the ESC if I can. Otherwise I allways leave it on. All batteries need manually unplugged or un soldered at the end of the race day. Never leave them plugged in.

Example of 4x4 SCT direct Lipo:



Generally speaking though. If you're running Hitec's speedier (at 6.0v) premium servos and Airtronics/KO/Futaba radios you can avoid the need for direct Lipo or odd ball regulators. Just connect them regularly.

It's the overly power hungry Savox servos combined with Spektrum radios that really created the need for direct lipo in 1/8th scale and 4x4 SCT. Especially when teamed with the pathetic BEC from a CC Mamba Monster ESC.

My Nitro setup:

bobf24

iTrader: (28)

there is nothing preventing you from putting a switch between the BEC and the ESC but then you also have to remember to turn the switch off so you still have the same problem,

personally I think not having a swtich is probably safer since it eliminates the possability of swtich failure or user error, thinking they turned it off but not actually turning it off, once you unplug the batteries power is cut no second guessing

kufman

iTrader: (6)

+1

offr0aden

iTrader: (6)

I ran 2 switches in my 1/8TH E-Buggy one for the ESC and the other for my BEC.. I run a Castle Maba Max Pro - They are known for the switches fading out. By that I mean land a jump no power - then power on - then power off. After I isolated the switch and my next qualifier came up - I cut the esc switch and soldered the wires. Problem solved. until the BEC switch started acting up. After a cut and solder. Now my Deans are the switch. I just strap the connector in the side straps to prevent them from pulling apart in a crash..

Works great. After my run I pull the dean connection / marshal and charge for the next round!!

Captcha

iTrader: (9)

My speed passion has the switch internally built in, and on the ESC it self. I always unplug, and place lipo's in the lipo bag. I am particular about the way i load my stuff though. If you were to watch me at the track for 4 weeks straight, I do the same thing setting up every week, and tearing down.

You can't continue to make products to try and counter-act someone's laziness, or forgetfulness. This is why this world is in shambles, even aside from just RC racing. Instead of making people do it themselves, we create products that do it for them, and call it by a false entitlement of "Helpful or beneficial".

/rant.

KAWIDAD

iTrader: (24)

You can't continue to make products to try and counter-act someone's laziness, or forgetfulness. This is why this world is in shambles, even aside from just RC racing. Instead of making people do it themselves, we create products that do it for them, and call it by a false entitlement of "Helpful or beneficial". Captcha
/rant.[/QUOTE]

Quote of the month well said man

ufoDziner

iTrader: (39)

My small receiver pack plugs directly into the receiver, which eliminates the BEC, etc... Works well.