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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

Old 12-14-2015, 06:03 AM
  #10261  
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Originally Posted by PetRock
I've searched the thread but didn't find a response: what shock bottoms/eyelets can I use instead of the 2 included in HBS112792? (I already have way more than enough of the other shock parts included )
Grab a T-Bone Racing bumper. It's low profile but enough protection I haven't needed to replace a shock end since using it.

I too have lot's of the spare shock parts from those bags...
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Old 12-14-2015, 10:59 AM
  #10262  
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Originally Posted by Ledonne99
I run dual stage pistons, with the B5 shock caps so they don't pop off. I absolutely love the D413 it is way more durable than any other 1/10 4x4.
Are you running RC Shox or VRP dual stage? Something else perhaps?

Thanks in Advance!
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by PetRock
I've searched the thread but didn't find a response: what shock bottoms/eyelets can I use instead of the 2 included in HBS112792? (I already have way more than enough of the other shock parts included )


I don't think there are any other options. The only thing I have broken on my buggy so far is 2 shock shafts from extremely hard impacts both broke off inside the end and I couldn't get them out. I bought like 3 of those bags and I hate throwing away all those parts. If I would have known that I would have stuck with the plastic shock caps because now I have 6 spares ! I emailed HPI directly trying to see if I could even buy large quantities of them and they said no.
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Old 12-14-2015, 07:25 PM
  #10264  
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Originally Posted by GimpyGolden
Grab a T-Bone Racing bumper. It's low profile but enough protection I haven't needed to replace a shock end since using it.

I too have lot's of the spare shock parts from those bags...
Losi 22 shock eyelets worked for me . Hope that helps
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:01 AM
  #10265  
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Hey All, I've been running my D413 for about six months now and it's always had a the typical loud transmission sound. I had spent some time shimming it when I first built it but since I've upgraded to new Avid Ceramic bearings I thought I'd try to get it smoother and quieter. I've been able to make the center diff to the front wheels buttery smooth. Unfortunately the rear has actually gotten worse. I've tried all sorts of shim combinations, from none (let it float) to tight and as loose as possible. There is always a specific section of gear that grinds. It's especially bad when you fully assemble the rear, even after careful loosening of all the screws around the rear case as to not overtighten things.

I've read through most of the comments I could find from way back but I'm hoping new thoughts and ideas are also around. Thank you in advance.

Looks like I will probably order a new transmission case and gear set just in case.

Cheers!
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Old 12-15-2015, 09:45 AM
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Could be from overtightening the diff itself, not the case.

BTW ceramic bearings and offroad don't mix IMO
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by vanpaassen
Losi 22 shock eyelets worked for me . Hope that helps
Associated work too - I run their caps, perches and eyelets because I had them from other cars...
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Old 12-15-2015, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by vanpaassen
Losi 22 shock eyelets worked for me . Hope that helps
Originally Posted by Lexicus
Associated work too - I run their caps, perches and eyelets because I had them from other cars...
Should move this helpful bit of info right to the front page ...
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by N15M0
I'm running mostly on mid bite AstroTurf, does upgrading to aluminium chassis (like avid) makes the car handle better on AstroTurf.
I too race on Astro and gave the Schelle +4 extended aluminum chassis a try. This chassis did help, it felt like it was more stable and more predictable going into turns and exiting as well. On straights it tracked better and overall took some of the edge out. Along with the #5 ackermann my D413 felt it's best so far on high grip astroturf.
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by wittyname
Should move this helpful bit of info right to the front page ...
Originally Posted by Lexicus
Associated work too - I run their caps, perches and eyelets because I had them from other cars...

I used the associated ones but the spring perch is very lose on them and they are not as deep as the HB ones you cant thread the shock shaft in very far.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R
Could be from overtightening the diff itself, not the case.

BTW ceramic bearings and offroad don't mix IMO
I've been able to resolve most of it, seems that some of the titanium screws are just a touch longer than the steel replacements and this can cause binding. I'll have to double check the diff to make sure I didn't over tighten it as well, that would probably cause it to be a bit out of round. It seems mostly due to the Lunsford screws being too long as once I went shorter it became much looser.

Why don't you like ceramics in off road? I've been running them for quite a while and they've been solid. I do clean them though, with citrus based cleaner using an ultrasonic bath. Essentially the avid cleaning method....

Thanks for your ideas!
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:12 PM
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If I may take a small poll in the thread here of who is running a longer chassis and which one? I'm leaning towards the graphite chassis to keep the weight to a minimum.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by nitro2be
Any good information on caster experiment?
Unfortunately no. I wasn't able to make it to the track. Hopefully this weekend.
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
If I may take a small poll in the thread here of who is running a longer chassis and which one? I'm leaning towards the graphite chassis to keep the weight to a minimum.

Thanks in advance!
I'm running the carbon stretch chassis and the car is very stable. Works great on med bite clay.
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:05 AM
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Are there any alternatives to the stock hinge pins? I've bent 2 with fairly light hits on the track. They seem really soft.
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