66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
03-24-2015, 05:01 PM
#8536
been awhile since I have ran it indoors with the stock chassis but to me it felt less twitchy and jumped much better then I remember, but I did also have the wing in the lower position. I was running stock setup with the Schelle but next time will go with 7k, 60k, 5k to help it smooth it out. The stock setup and the 5.5t motor made it like a On & Off Switch so going to a 6.5t and diff change should help me be more consistent
03-24-2015, 05:52 PM
#8537
with all of the slop in the steering and the forgiving nature of the center diff, i've never considered this buggy "twitchy". it's not numb by any means. my durango 410v3 was twitchy. with the exotek rack (that takes out at least half the slop) it's a beautiful balance between responsiveness and forgiveness.
03-25-2015, 03:13 AM
#8538
I really can't believe my luck I've had this buggy 6 months with not one problem until i changed to a smaller pinion and didn't set my mesh right and stripped a spur, clearly my fault, but i can't work it out took the car out for the first time today with the new exotek spur gear and not even 10 laps later i stripped it, the mesh was set perfect, and the motor never came lose, but i still managed to strip it, I'm really at a loss as to whats going on i mean i no spurs strip from a bad mesh but when it happens and the mesh was perfect it really does leave you dumb founded, anyway time to install the new spur and fingers crossed it was just a one off.
03-25-2015, 04:46 AM
#8539
with all of the slop in the steering and the forgiving nature of the center diff, i've never considered this buggy "twitchy". it's not numb by any means. my durango 410v3 was twitchy. with the exotek rack (that takes out at least half the slop) it's a beautiful balance between responsiveness and forgiveness.
03-25-2015, 07:54 AM
#8540
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
with all of the slop in the steering and the forgiving nature of the center diff, i've never considered this buggy "twitchy". it's not numb by any means. my durango 410v3 was twitchy. with the exotek rack (that takes out at least half the slop) it's a beautiful balance between responsiveness and forgiveness.
03-25-2015, 08:14 AM
#8541
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
maybe not Twitchy but it is very aggressive and I am just trying to clam her down so she drives alittle more smoother even tho the buggy wants to be pushed. Basically want it to be like my xb4 but better in the bumps and on big air tracks. So far the Schelle Chassis, exotek rack and the Rc Shox 2x1.6 & 2x1.7 Pistons have helped the car out alot.
-Chris
03-25-2015, 08:42 AM
#8542
03-25-2015, 08:47 AM
#8543
03-25-2015, 08:58 AM
#8544
Another thing is what front tire he is using and how it is being prepped. Could be something as easy as not saucing the fronts, going to a different tread pattern, insert or compound.
If he posts up the setup info from the front half of his car we can get him pointed in the right direction with his setup.
03-25-2015, 09:46 AM
#8545
He could also change (among many things) his front toe setting, camber, arm sweep, diff oils, and caster/kick up. Personally, I feel a change in front toe/camber can greatly alter how reactive a car is, and where in the corner it makes grip.
Another thing is what front tire he is using and how it is being prepped. Could be something as easy as not saucing the fronts, going to a different tread pattern, insert or compound.
If he posts up the setup info from the front half of his car we can get him pointed in the right direction with his setup.
Another thing is what front tire he is using and how it is being prepped. Could be something as easy as not saucing the fronts, going to a different tread pattern, insert or compound.
If he posts up the setup info from the front half of his car we can get him pointed in the right direction with his setup.
03-25-2015, 09:58 AM
#8546
I really can't believe my luck I've had this buggy 6 months with not one problem until i changed to a smaller pinion and didn't set my mesh right and stripped a spur, clearly my fault, but i can't work it out took the car out for the first time today with the new exotek spur gear and not even 10 laps later i stripped it, the mesh was set perfect, and the motor never came lose, but i still managed to strip it, I'm really at a loss as to whats going on i mean i no spurs strip from a bad mesh but when it happens and the mesh was perfect it really does leave you dumb founded, anyway time to install the new spur and fingers crossed it was just a one off.
Found out the bell cap going to the can of the motor was slightly loose. The three screws on the can of the Tekin motor backed out a bit. Gave it just enough to give me a headache, but not enough it was obvious.
Tightened it down with some loctight...No issues.
03-25-2015, 10:05 AM
#8547
I had a few gears strip as well and didn't understand why..mesh and motor mount were set fine and tight.
Found out the bell cap going to the can of the motor was slightly loose. The three screws on the can of the Tekin motor backed out a bit. Gave it just enough to give me a headache, but not enough it was obvious.
Tightened it down with some loctight...No issues.
Found out the bell cap going to the can of the motor was slightly loose. The three screws on the can of the Tekin motor backed out a bit. Gave it just enough to give me a headache, but not enough it was obvious.
Tightened it down with some loctight...No issues.
03-25-2015, 10:18 AM
#8548
03-25-2015, 10:26 AM
#8549
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
He could also change (among many things) his front toe setting, camber, arm sweep, diff oils, and caster/kick up. Personally, I feel a change in front toe/camber can greatly alter how reactive a car is, and where in the corner it makes grip.
Another thing is what front tire he is using and how it is being prepped. Could be something as easy as not saucing the fronts, going to a different tread pattern, insert or compound.
If he posts up the setup info from the front half of his car we can get him pointed in the right direction with his setup.
Another thing is what front tire he is using and how it is being prepped. Could be something as easy as not saucing the fronts, going to a different tread pattern, insert or compound.
If he posts up the setup info from the front half of his car we can get him pointed in the right direction with his setup.
I'm running them, along with some negative expo in my radio, and they made a very nice difference in how easy the car feels to drive.
03-25-2015, 10:37 AM
#8550
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Ackerman is your outside front wheel turning a little less sharply than your inside front wheel. So when your inside wheel is at full lock, the outside won't be. Adding more ackerman increases the difference between how sharply your wheels turn and can make the car feel less aggressive.
Picture two different sized circles. To follow the smaller circle you have to turn sharper than you do to follow the large circle. Same with your wheels when you turn. Your inside wheel is following a smaller circle than your outer wheel. Ackerman basically accounts for that.
Picture two different sized circles. To follow the smaller circle you have to turn sharper than you do to follow the large circle. Same with your wheels when you turn. Your inside wheel is following a smaller circle than your outer wheel. Ackerman basically accounts for that.