66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
10-22-2014, 05:24 AM
#5341
If anyone is capable of putting on the bladder without the shock shaft starting to move out and thereby creating at least 50% rebound when done, you either have a good portion of luck in you, or you simply are an alien. If you cant even seal it with the bladder without the shaft starting to move, letīs just wait talking about what to do with the shock cap , - right ?
Damn, iīm beginning to lose faith
Damn, iīm beginning to lose faith
10-22-2014, 05:38 AM
#5342
If anyone is capable of putting on the bladder without the shock shaft starting to move out and thereby creating at least 50% rebound when done, you either have a good portion of luck in you, or you simply are an alien. If you cant even seal it with the bladder without the shaft starting to move, letīs just wait talking about what to do with the shock cap , - right ?
Damn, iīm beginning to lose faith
Damn, iīm beginning to lose faith
Put the the bladder on while the shaft is up and when you lay the bladder on "roll" it to one side so that the extra oil comes out. If you just lay the bladder on top and give the oil no where to go you will have rebound. Try that and see how it goes!
After you have that part figured out, install the cap with the bleed screw completely out, tighten the cap all the way down, leave the shaft up and to be honest i would just leave the bleed screw out, but if you want to use the bleed screw, screw it in while the shaft is up. you should get as close to zero rebound as you can with this technique.
10-22-2014, 06:39 AM
#5343
10-22-2014, 06:41 AM
#5344
Greg, Myself, and 2 other locals(Doug and Terry) did some testing over the weekend at the RC Clubhouse Halloween race. We've found out there can be a 7.5wt difference in shock oil depending on the type or brand seals when using the same pistons.
We've tested the following.
AE X-rings: leaked really bad out of package, ended up not using this seals.
Kyo X-rings: smoother than stock with less stiction but required 7.5wt heavier oils
Traxxas X-Rings: same a Kyo X-rings required 7.5wt heavier oils
Stock O-rings: Although they have much more stiction, I've found this seals to be the most consistent and since I've already had the shock package dialed-in with this seals I ended up using them over the weekend.
We've tested the following.
AE X-rings: leaked really bad out of package, ended up not using this seals.
Kyo X-rings: smoother than stock with less stiction but required 7.5wt heavier oils
Traxxas X-Rings: same a Kyo X-rings required 7.5wt heavier oils
Stock O-rings: Although they have much more stiction, I've found this seals to be the most consistent and since I've already had the shock package dialed-in with this seals I ended up using them over the weekend.
10-22-2014, 06:52 AM
#5345
are the traxxas rings blue?
What piston combos is everyone using with this car right now?
What piston combos is everyone using with this car right now?
10-22-2014, 07:23 AM
#5348
And again , we've found more people that had zero packing they're 2 hole drilled, so our local machinist nick Vasquez , hooked em all up. I think I may be the only other that drilled mine, per nicks instructions tho, but our cars were dialed last weekend, with nick being on a blistering tq run, but lap traffic wasn't having it, 1st through 5th were like 5 seconds apart. We turned a lot of heads with this. Car
10-22-2014, 07:28 AM
#5350
10-22-2014, 07:40 AM
#5352
After getting the 2 hole dialed in I see no reason to switch now. The shock package is the best part of this car now I feel
10-22-2014, 07:49 AM
#5354
2 hole with what size holes?
I can have them available in a day or so!
10-22-2014, 07:58 AM
#5355
Per nick (nv529)
I'd recommend using this method
#55 or #56 pilot hole
Front: Drill with #53, check hole with 1/16" drill. If it doesn't fit drill with 1/16" bit
Rear: Drill with #52, check hole with #51 drill. If it doesn't fit drill with #51 bit.
Take your time the holes should fit snug against the drill bit when the size is correct.
Just a FYI: I've checked my drills with a .0001" micrometer 1/16" measured .0623"/1.582mm, #51 measured .0667"/1.694mm
I'd recommend using this method
#55 or #56 pilot hole
Front: Drill with #53, check hole with 1/16" drill. If it doesn't fit drill with 1/16" bit
Rear: Drill with #52, check hole with #51 drill. If it doesn't fit drill with #51 bit.
Take your time the holes should fit snug against the drill bit when the size is correct.
Just a FYI: I've checked my drills with a .0001" micrometer 1/16" measured .0623"/1.582mm, #51 measured .0667"/1.694mm