Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
#3406
Tech Adept
have tried a ton of fans....the only ones that seem to hold up are Sunon fans, i run the 5v 30x30x15
#3408
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
Cant beat this fan ! I have ran this on my 4wd buggy all summer and its still perfect, and keeps my motor to like 115 after a hard 6 min run in 100 degree heat. Can also run up to 8.4v.
http://www.rcmart.com/tornado-high-s...l?cPath=52_954
http://www.rcmart.com/tornado-high-s...l?cPath=52_954
#3410
Tech Initiate
I've had the D413 for two months now and here's a little summary of my experience with it so far.
Building
Building this car was a very pleasant experience. Very nicely organized bags with parts, minimizing the risk of mixing things up. No parts come on trees, which is always a plus. The fit and finish was very good and gave a over all feeling of high quality. The manual is ok, but I've seen better. It's mostly pictures and not so much text to guide and give tips. I was a surprised that it didn't mention anything about using grease in some critical places (like the outdrive shafts, diff/input gear joint, etc). It also didn't mention anything amount sealing the edges on the exposed carbon fiber parts. People with some building experience will know when and where things like these are needed, but I definitely think the manual should mention it. The only real modification I needed to do during the build was to dremel the motor mount to be able to access the set screw on the pinion.
EDIT: I forgot to mention another minor modification I had to do. On one of the machined diff gears, the hole for the outdrive was super tight and I was barely able to get the outdrive in. It just didn't feel right. I noticed a burr on the inside edge of the hole, which I gently removed with a drill. After doing that the outdrive went in easily and had the expected play.
Driving
I've got about 50 packs of track time with it so far. I've run it mostly on high to medium grip astroturf tracks, with everything form small to large jumps. I'm very happy with how the car handles. It feels easy to drive and responds well to setup adjustments. The car has very responsive steering, without feeling twitchy. I generally dislike understeered cars, so this fits my driving style nicely.
I've done two races with this car so far. In both races I've felt very confident with the car and how it handles, and I've been able to just drive it like I want to and get into a rhythm. First race: TQ + Win. Second race: Qualified second + Win.
Setup
The setup I've used most of the time is basically the stock/manual setup, with the following adjustments:
- Shocks front: 4x1.3, Kyosho 600 oil, Kyosho Orange spings, 3mm limiter inside shock
- Shocks rear: 4x1.3, Kyosho 400 oil, HB Yellow spirings, 1mm limiter inside shock
- Diffs: 15k-100k-5k (Kyosho oils)
- Sway bars: None or coppar (1.2mm) in front, black (1.4mm) in rear
- Orion 6.5T, Orion R10 ESC
- Kyosho 21 steel pinion
Durability
What have I broken so far? Nothing! Well, I have broken the wing, but that doesn't count I've had a few really nasty crashes, like running hard into the wall after the straight, but it has held up very well. I actually bought two kits right away, just to have spare parts for every possible scenario, but haven't actually needed anything from the second kit yet
Haven't had any problems with stripping the spur gear, but I did notice some dents in it from dirt finding it's way in under the body. I made a little lexan cover (see pictures) to keep dirt away from the spur/pinion area, and it seems to be working as the amount of dents have not increased much since then.
Also haven't had any heat issues. Both ESC and motor is well below any problematic temperatures and I use a fair a mount of boost and turbo. I use a fan on the ESC, but no fan on the motor.
I like the shape of the 4-piece body, but it feels a little weak, especially the joints where you bolt it together. The first time I drove the car one of the screws was ripped out from one of the side pods. After that I added 3 extra screws on each side (see pictures) and it's been holding up after that.
Never had a shock pop off, but I will probably get the aluminium shock caps when they are available. Just to be safe, and because they look better
Tips
- The shock travel is enormous, especially in the front, use limiters inside the shocks.
- The SWORKz S104 wing fits perfectly on the D413 and lasts forever compared to lexan wings. Highly recommended.
- Cover the spur/pinion area with a piece of lexan.
Building
Building this car was a very pleasant experience. Very nicely organized bags with parts, minimizing the risk of mixing things up. No parts come on trees, which is always a plus. The fit and finish was very good and gave a over all feeling of high quality. The manual is ok, but I've seen better. It's mostly pictures and not so much text to guide and give tips. I was a surprised that it didn't mention anything about using grease in some critical places (like the outdrive shafts, diff/input gear joint, etc). It also didn't mention anything amount sealing the edges on the exposed carbon fiber parts. People with some building experience will know when and where things like these are needed, but I definitely think the manual should mention it. The only real modification I needed to do during the build was to dremel the motor mount to be able to access the set screw on the pinion.
EDIT: I forgot to mention another minor modification I had to do. On one of the machined diff gears, the hole for the outdrive was super tight and I was barely able to get the outdrive in. It just didn't feel right. I noticed a burr on the inside edge of the hole, which I gently removed with a drill. After doing that the outdrive went in easily and had the expected play.
Driving
I've got about 50 packs of track time with it so far. I've run it mostly on high to medium grip astroturf tracks, with everything form small to large jumps. I'm very happy with how the car handles. It feels easy to drive and responds well to setup adjustments. The car has very responsive steering, without feeling twitchy. I generally dislike understeered cars, so this fits my driving style nicely.
I've done two races with this car so far. In both races I've felt very confident with the car and how it handles, and I've been able to just drive it like I want to and get into a rhythm. First race: TQ + Win. Second race: Qualified second + Win.
Setup
The setup I've used most of the time is basically the stock/manual setup, with the following adjustments:
- Shocks front: 4x1.3, Kyosho 600 oil, Kyosho Orange spings, 3mm limiter inside shock
- Shocks rear: 4x1.3, Kyosho 400 oil, HB Yellow spirings, 1mm limiter inside shock
- Diffs: 15k-100k-5k (Kyosho oils)
- Sway bars: None or coppar (1.2mm) in front, black (1.4mm) in rear
- Orion 6.5T, Orion R10 ESC
- Kyosho 21 steel pinion
Durability
What have I broken so far? Nothing! Well, I have broken the wing, but that doesn't count I've had a few really nasty crashes, like running hard into the wall after the straight, but it has held up very well. I actually bought two kits right away, just to have spare parts for every possible scenario, but haven't actually needed anything from the second kit yet
Haven't had any problems with stripping the spur gear, but I did notice some dents in it from dirt finding it's way in under the body. I made a little lexan cover (see pictures) to keep dirt away from the spur/pinion area, and it seems to be working as the amount of dents have not increased much since then.
Also haven't had any heat issues. Both ESC and motor is well below any problematic temperatures and I use a fair a mount of boost and turbo. I use a fan on the ESC, but no fan on the motor.
I like the shape of the 4-piece body, but it feels a little weak, especially the joints where you bolt it together. The first time I drove the car one of the screws was ripped out from one of the side pods. After that I added 3 extra screws on each side (see pictures) and it's been holding up after that.
Never had a shock pop off, but I will probably get the aluminium shock caps when they are available. Just to be safe, and because they look better
Tips
- The shock travel is enormous, especially in the front, use limiters inside the shocks.
- The SWORKz S104 wing fits perfectly on the D413 and lasts forever compared to lexan wings. Highly recommended.
- Cover the spur/pinion area with a piece of lexan.
Last edited by pli; 07-01-2014 at 03:22 AM.
#3411
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
pli,
Thanks for taking the time to post your review. It's very informative, and easy to read.
I like the lexan shield you mounted over the pinion and spur. Is there any way you could post a picture showing the section of lexan you cut that out of ? Did it come from the wing, or body area ?
Thanks for taking the time to post your review. It's very informative, and easy to read.
I like the lexan shield you mounted over the pinion and spur. Is there any way you could post a picture showing the section of lexan you cut that out of ? Did it come from the wing, or body area ?
#3414
http://gridworksracing.com/shop/r1-w...an-8-4v-r1033/
#3415
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
I'm not trying to rant here... (but it's going to sound like it a little.)
We know the parts are back ordered (they have been for a while.)
Why as a 'business plan' does Tower keep changing the date?!?!
Why don't they just leave the expected date "TBA" once they actually know when the stuff is in their possession!
It's sales training 101:
Never over promise and under deliver!
Never make a promise that you cannot control the outcome of!
When in doubt say you're not certain
If you bought a TV and they said they would deliver it by next Tuesday... on Wednesday if you didn't have you TV, you'd be mad... if it came Monday, you wouldn't.
I just don't get this concept of 'tell them a date, no big deal if we're wrong'.....
Ps. Parts have been pushed back to mid July...
We know the parts are back ordered (they have been for a while.)
Why as a 'business plan' does Tower keep changing the date?!?!
Why don't they just leave the expected date "TBA" once they actually know when the stuff is in their possession!
It's sales training 101:
Never over promise and under deliver!
Never make a promise that you cannot control the outcome of!
When in doubt say you're not certain
If you bought a TV and they said they would deliver it by next Tuesday... on Wednesday if you didn't have you TV, you'd be mad... if it came Monday, you wouldn't.
I just don't get this concept of 'tell them a date, no big deal if we're wrong'.....
Ps. Parts have been pushed back to mid July...
#3416
Tech Adept
ebay
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70226232
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70225934
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70225889
as with all fans the thinner they are, the more likely they are to break if your just sticking to the chassis with shoegoo or servo tape......thats why i like to go with the 15mm thickness when doing that, if your putting it on a heat sink with 2-4 screws then the thin ones are great, one of them even has higher airflow
next to consider is airflow, when fans are listed at say 5 cfm, that is when its spinning freely, no vibrations, no air resistance....thin fans suffer the most if theres air resistance, thicker fans do much better, what your looking for is static pressure, this is the true power of the fan...this gives you an idea on how the fan will do in a headwind (imagine mounted on a touring car, behind the motor, now it will have to blow towards the front of the car, straight into the airflow under the body.
also thicker fans have thicker bearing surface and in general handle vibration/shocks better than thin ones
HTH
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70226232
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70225934
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70225889
as with all fans the thinner they are, the more likely they are to break if your just sticking to the chassis with shoegoo or servo tape......thats why i like to go with the 15mm thickness when doing that, if your putting it on a heat sink with 2-4 screws then the thin ones are great, one of them even has higher airflow
next to consider is airflow, when fans are listed at say 5 cfm, that is when its spinning freely, no vibrations, no air resistance....thin fans suffer the most if theres air resistance, thicker fans do much better, what your looking for is static pressure, this is the true power of the fan...this gives you an idea on how the fan will do in a headwind (imagine mounted on a touring car, behind the motor, now it will have to blow towards the front of the car, straight into the airflow under the body.
also thicker fans have thicker bearing surface and in general handle vibration/shocks better than thin ones
HTH
#3417
Tech Master
I'm not trying to rant here... (but it's going to sound like it a little.)
We know the parts are back ordered (they have been for a while.)
Why as a 'business plan' does Tower keep changing the date?!?!
Why don't they just leave the expected date "TBA" once they actually know when the stuff is in their possession!
It's sales training 101:
Never over promise and under deliver!
Never make a promise that you cannot control the outcome of!
When in doubt say you're not certain
If you bought a TV and they said they would deliver it by next Tuesday... on Wednesday if you didn't have you TV, you'd be mad... if it came Monday, you wouldn't.
I just don't get this concept of 'tell them a date, no big deal if we're wrong'.....
Ps. Parts have been pushed back to mid July...
We know the parts are back ordered (they have been for a while.)
Why as a 'business plan' does Tower keep changing the date?!?!
Why don't they just leave the expected date "TBA" once they actually know when the stuff is in their possession!
It's sales training 101:
Never over promise and under deliver!
Never make a promise that you cannot control the outcome of!
When in doubt say you're not certain
If you bought a TV and they said they would deliver it by next Tuesday... on Wednesday if you didn't have you TV, you'd be mad... if it came Monday, you wouldn't.
I just don't get this concept of 'tell them a date, no big deal if we're wrong'.....
Ps. Parts have been pushed back to mid July...
HB isn't the only one with issues, AE and TLR both had "initial" part availability issues for their most recent rides, but things are catching up for them.
#3418
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
I'd guess the parts are either still on the boat on the way from Asia, or they are sitting in customs at the port. HB had similar parts availability issues with the TCX which eventually worked itself out.
HB isn't the only one with issues, AE and TLR both had "initial" part availability issues for their most recent rides, but things are catching up for them.
HB isn't the only one with issues, AE and TLR both had "initial" part availability issues for their most recent rides, but things are catching up for them.
I know, that's what makes it even more maddening to me... this is not Tower's first rodeo.
#3419
ebay
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70226232
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70225934
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70225889
as with all fans the thinner they are, the more likely they are to break if your just sticking to the chassis with shoegoo or servo tape......thats why i like to go with the 15mm thickness when doing that, if your putting it on a heat sink with 2-4 screws then the thin ones are great, one of them even has higher airflow
next to consider is airflow, when fans are listed at say 5 cfm, that is when its spinning freely, no vibrations, no air resistance....thin fans suffer the most if theres air resistance, thicker fans do much better, what your looking for is static pressure, this is the true power of the fan...this gives you an idea on how the fan will do in a headwind (imagine mounted on a touring car, behind the motor, now it will have to blow towards the front of the car, straight into the airflow under the body.
also thicker fans have thicker bearing surface and in general handle vibration/shocks better than thin ones
HTH
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70226232
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70225934
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70225889
as with all fans the thinner they are, the more likely they are to break if your just sticking to the chassis with shoegoo or servo tape......thats why i like to go with the 15mm thickness when doing that, if your putting it on a heat sink with 2-4 screws then the thin ones are great, one of them even has higher airflow
next to consider is airflow, when fans are listed at say 5 cfm, that is when its spinning freely, no vibrations, no air resistance....thin fans suffer the most if theres air resistance, thicker fans do much better, what your looking for is static pressure, this is the true power of the fan...this gives you an idea on how the fan will do in a headwind (imagine mounted on a touring car, behind the motor, now it will have to blow towards the front of the car, straight into the airflow under the body.
also thicker fans have thicker bearing surface and in general handle vibration/shocks better than thin ones
HTH