Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
#2643
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...ies2014050507/
#2644
Tech Elite
One of the reasons for cf might be that it will return to its original shape after hitting stuff. Even the most durable car will be useless with a bent chassis.
#2646
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Half the price. (Most likely Less than half)
Not afraid of outdoor rough track, fine with scratch or peel off.
More flex ( stock thin upper deck will be in danger).
Work as a heat sink(10-20F motor temp difference in Durango)
And what are the chance bending ur aluminum chassis?
#2647
Tech Elite
Aluminum chassis is:
Half the price. (Most likely Less than half)
Not afraid of outdoor rough track, fine with scratch or peel off.
More flex ( stock thin upper deck will be in danger).
Work as a heat sink(10-20F motor temp difference in Durango)
And what are the chance bending ur aluminum chassis?
Half the price. (Most likely Less than half)
Not afraid of outdoor rough track, fine with scratch or peel off.
More flex ( stock thin upper deck will be in danger).
Work as a heat sink(10-20F motor temp difference in Durango)
And what are the chance bending ur aluminum chassis?
I don't think most racers will have issues with their aluminum chassis plates, but some may have. Billy Easton chose a plastic chassis over aluminum for the Serpent Spyder and stated the possibility of bending as one of the reasons.
#2648
#2649
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Aluminum chassis is:
Half the price. (Most likely Less than half)
Not afraid of outdoor rough track, fine with scratch or peel off.
More flex ( stock thin upper deck will be in danger).
Work as a heat sink(10-20F motor temp difference in Durango)
And what are the chance bending ur aluminum chassis?
Half the price. (Most likely Less than half)
Not afraid of outdoor rough track, fine with scratch or peel off.
More flex ( stock thin upper deck will be in danger).
Work as a heat sink(10-20F motor temp difference in Durango)
And what are the chance bending ur aluminum chassis?
#2651
minor gripes:
-for such a nice kit, not having some kind of clamping hex so the pins don't fall out seems like a miss.
-at the point the instructions tell you to put the body on, it is a PITA to get the nose piece on. you basically have to wedge and mash it in between the triangulated shock tower. good thing this is just going to be a practice body. hopefully the proline nose piece is a bit more narrow.
-the spring clip on the ends of the diff pinions are a pain to get on. torrence, what do these do?
Overall a real nice build. SOOO nice not having ANY parts come from a tree. As has been said the build is nicely laid out with parts bags that match instructions to the tee.
Can't wait to run it.
-for such a nice kit, not having some kind of clamping hex so the pins don't fall out seems like a miss.
-at the point the instructions tell you to put the body on, it is a PITA to get the nose piece on. you basically have to wedge and mash it in between the triangulated shock tower. good thing this is just going to be a practice body. hopefully the proline nose piece is a bit more narrow.
-the spring clip on the ends of the diff pinions are a pain to get on. torrence, what do these do?
Overall a real nice build. SOOO nice not having ANY parts come from a tree. As has been said the build is nicely laid out with parts bags that match instructions to the tee.
Can't wait to run it.
#2652
-for such a nice kit, not having some kind of clamping hex so the pins don't fall out seems like a miss.
Agree! I just used Shoe Goo to keep the pins in, works like a charm!
-at the point the instructions tell you to put the body on, it is a PITA to get the nose piece on. you basically have to wedge and mash it in between the triangulated shock tower. good thing this is just going to be a practice body. hopefully the proline nose piece is a bit more narrow.
Agree! I just loosened the four shock tower assembly screws a bit and slipped it in no problem though.
-the spring clip on the ends of the diff pinions are a pain to get on. torrence, what do these do?
Keeps the bearing in place I believe.
Agree! I just used Shoe Goo to keep the pins in, works like a charm!
-at the point the instructions tell you to put the body on, it is a PITA to get the nose piece on. you basically have to wedge and mash it in between the triangulated shock tower. good thing this is just going to be a practice body. hopefully the proline nose piece is a bit more narrow.
Agree! I just loosened the four shock tower assembly screws a bit and slipped it in no problem though.
-the spring clip on the ends of the diff pinions are a pain to get on. torrence, what do these do?
Keeps the bearing in place I believe.
#2653
Tech Addict
minor gripes:
-for such a nice kit, not having some kind of clamping hex so the pins don't fall out seems like a miss.
-at the point the instructions tell you to put the body on, it is a PITA to get the nose piece on. you basically have to wedge and mash it in between the triangulated shock tower. good thing this is just going to be a practice body. hopefully the proline nose piece is a bit more narrow.
-the spring clip on the ends of the diff pinions are a pain to get on. torrence, what do these do?
Overall a real nice build. SOOO nice not having ANY parts come from a tree. As has been said the build is nicely laid out with parts bags that match instructions to the tee.
Can't wait to run it.
-for such a nice kit, not having some kind of clamping hex so the pins don't fall out seems like a miss.
-at the point the instructions tell you to put the body on, it is a PITA to get the nose piece on. you basically have to wedge and mash it in between the triangulated shock tower. good thing this is just going to be a practice body. hopefully the proline nose piece is a bit more narrow.
-the spring clip on the ends of the diff pinions are a pain to get on. torrence, what do these do?
Overall a real nice build. SOOO nice not having ANY parts come from a tree. As has been said the build is nicely laid out with parts bags that match instructions to the tee.
Can't wait to run it.
yeah the nose installation is pain. I have no excuse. but I thought it would have disrupted the 'flow' of the build if we put the nose on earlier in the build.
the spring clip prevents the input gear from jamming into the diff, which tightens the gear mesh. and it keeps the bearing from falling off.
#2654
at the rear you can substitute the hex with a typical 12mm clamping hex off a touring car (with shorter pin). at the front the hex width is too thin to fit a clamping hex. do any other wheelers have a clamping hex up front? not sure why there's such a resistance against the grease method that I recommend.... it works, it's easy to remove, no need to wait for it to dry, it's lightweight, it's cheap, etc....
yeah the nose installation is pain. I have no excuse. but I thought it would have disrupted the 'flow' of the build if we put the nose on earlier in the build.
the spring clip prevents the input gear from jamming into the diff, which tightens the gear mesh. and it keeps the bearing from falling off.
yeah the nose installation is pain. I have no excuse. but I thought it would have disrupted the 'flow' of the build if we put the nose on earlier in the build.
the spring clip prevents the input gear from jamming into the diff, which tightens the gear mesh. and it keeps the bearing from falling off.
#2655
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
at the rear you can substitute the hex with a typical 12mm clamping hex off a touring car (with shorter pin). at the front the hex width is too thin to fit a clamping hex. do any other wheelers have a clamping hex up front? not sure why there's such a resistance against the grease method that I recommend.... it works, it's easy to remove, no need to wait for it to dry, it's lightweight, it's cheap, etc....
.
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