Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
#1546
Tech Adept
According to A Main in the
Needed to Complete: section
2-channel surface radio system
7.4V Shorty or saddle pack type LiPo battery & compatible charger
1/10 Electronic speed control & 540 motor
Pinion gear
Paint for body
Tires & tire glue
Steering servo
500cts Silicone Shock Oil
10,000wt Silicone Differential Fluid
100,000wt Silicone Differential Fluid
Tools for Assembly
P.S. i noticed the PL Shock Caps, are they coming standard or not?
Needed to Complete: section
2-channel surface radio system
7.4V Shorty or saddle pack type LiPo battery & compatible charger
1/10 Electronic speed control & 540 motor
Pinion gear
Paint for body
Tires & tire glue
Steering servo
500cts Silicone Shock Oil
10,000wt Silicone Differential Fluid
100,000wt Silicone Differential Fluid
Tools for Assembly
P.S. i noticed the PL Shock Caps, are they coming standard or not?
#1548
Tech Rookie
Here was a post at Facebook from HPI Racing UK that the kits are landed today at the HPI Europe HQ!!!
Soon!!!!!!
Soon!!!!!!
#1549
3rd of april says where I have preordered
#1550
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Just an FYI...
Tower has the full parts list up now~
$9 for arms, and $7 for the knuckles isn't bad... but $50 for the CF arm inserts... ugh~!!!!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...13&S2=&S3=&S4=
Tower has the full parts list up now~
$9 for arms, and $7 for the knuckles isn't bad... but $50 for the CF arm inserts... ugh~!!!!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...13&S2=&S3=&S4=
#1551
Just an FYI...
Tower has the full parts list up now~
$9 for arms, and $7 for the knuckles isn't bad... but $50 for the CF arm inserts... ugh~!!!!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...13&S2=&S3=&S4=
Tower has the full parts list up now~
$9 for arms, and $7 for the knuckles isn't bad... but $50 for the CF arm inserts... ugh~!!!!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...13&S2=&S3=&S4=
That's awesome, it says late April aswell!, does that mean parts will arrive with the kits? Hope so as I'll order a few sets of yellow wheels and some parts aswell as spares.
Also a question for Torrance, have the shocks been leaking at all? Will we need to upgrade to x-rings or are the kit ones working well?
Justin
#1552
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Just an FYI...
Tower has the full parts list up now~
$9 for arms, and $7 for the knuckles isn't bad... but $50 for the CF arm inserts... ugh~!!!!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...13&S2=&S3=&S4=
Tower has the full parts list up now~
$9 for arms, and $7 for the knuckles isn't bad... but $50 for the CF arm inserts... ugh~!!!!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...13&S2=&S3=&S4=
Last edited by jones8352; 04-01-2014 at 04:58 PM.
#1553
Just an FYI...
Tower has the full parts list up now~
$9 for arms, and $7 for the knuckles isn't bad... but $50 for the CF arm inserts... ugh~!!!!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...13&S2=&S3=&S4=
Tower has the full parts list up now~
$9 for arms, and $7 for the knuckles isn't bad... but $50 for the CF arm inserts... ugh~!!!!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...13&S2=&S3=&S4=
#1554
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Center diff kit $25.99, nice! Unfortunately the front and rear diffs use different outdrives and they are $42.99 a piece. I might pick up a spare center for testing, but the front/rear are a little too spendy do the same, I think. Coming from a K car I am very happy overall with the spares prices, especially because I don't think I will need to buy very many of them because the buggy looks so strong! And look at those spring prices!!!! They are so inexpensive I might just buy them all!
The price difference is the machined ring gear, kind of expensive, but super strong and super smooth.
the carbon fiber spares however, are quite pricy! Chassis and top deck are pretty much double the price of those AE carbon fiber stuffs.
and the shock tower, I thought they keep it small so it can be cheaper when break, turns out just as expensive as a full sized durango ones.
I guess this will make third party part makers, like exotek, very happy then.
#1555
Tech Addict
That's awesome, it says late April aswell!, does that mean parts will arrive with the kits? Hope so as I'll order a few sets of yellow wheels and some parts aswell as spares.
Also a question for Torrance, have the shocks been leaking at all? Will we need to upgrade to x-rings or are the kit ones working well?
Justin
Also a question for Torrance, have the shocks been leaking at all? Will we need to upgrade to x-rings or are the kit ones working well?
Justin
I do the poor-man method... I use the stock o-rings but replace the spacer between them with a 1.5mm ballstud washer instead (the standard spacer is 2mm).
#1556
Tech Addict
Now that the car is almost here I guess I'll post some build tips that I've found. On my previous post I mentioned o-rings and the o-ring spacer. I guess that'll be the first tip.
Build Tip #1
Ty uses Kyosho x-rings which adds smoothness. During testing after the Cactus the AE guys gave us some of their new x-rings to try. They claim theirs work as well without the Kyo price. Haven't tried them yet though.
I do the poor-man method... I use the stock o-rings but replace the spacer between them with a 1.5mm ballstud washer instead (the standard spacer is 2mm). Smoothens the shock action without leaks.
Build Tip #2
The shock can be built bladder style or emulsion style. I think the manuals shows it being built with a bladder. If you choose to build it emulsion style you'll have to trim the bladder and drill the hole through the cap for the bleeder screw. (see picture)
There's also a small dimple on the shock cap that you can ream out. If you build it bladder style this helps the excess oil escape when screwing on the cap. 1/8 guys should be familiar with this feature.
Build Tip #3
I made the spring collar o-rings a little on the tight side in case if some drivers like them tight. If you want to loosen the collar action you can cut off a portion of the o-ring before stuffing it into the collar. For me I use a 3/4 ring (cut off 1/4).
Build Tip #4
During the initial build you pop the shock onto the tower ball stud. However in order to prevent the fit from getting sloppy over time, do not pop it off the ball when removing the shock. Instead used the supplied stamped wrench and undo the nut instead.
Build Tip #5
You can adjust your droop by threading the shock eyelet in and out. The shafts and eyelets were designed for this so you don't run out of thread. The shock shafts already have markings on them.
More to come...
Build Tip #1
Ty uses Kyosho x-rings which adds smoothness. During testing after the Cactus the AE guys gave us some of their new x-rings to try. They claim theirs work as well without the Kyo price. Haven't tried them yet though.
I do the poor-man method... I use the stock o-rings but replace the spacer between them with a 1.5mm ballstud washer instead (the standard spacer is 2mm). Smoothens the shock action without leaks.
Build Tip #2
The shock can be built bladder style or emulsion style. I think the manuals shows it being built with a bladder. If you choose to build it emulsion style you'll have to trim the bladder and drill the hole through the cap for the bleeder screw. (see picture)
There's also a small dimple on the shock cap that you can ream out. If you build it bladder style this helps the excess oil escape when screwing on the cap. 1/8 guys should be familiar with this feature.
Build Tip #3
I made the spring collar o-rings a little on the tight side in case if some drivers like them tight. If you want to loosen the collar action you can cut off a portion of the o-ring before stuffing it into the collar. For me I use a 3/4 ring (cut off 1/4).
Build Tip #4
During the initial build you pop the shock onto the tower ball stud. However in order to prevent the fit from getting sloppy over time, do not pop it off the ball when removing the shock. Instead used the supplied stamped wrench and undo the nut instead.
Build Tip #5
You can adjust your droop by threading the shock eyelet in and out. The shafts and eyelets were designed for this so you don't run out of thread. The shock shafts already have markings on them.
More to come...
Last edited by T. Deguzman; 04-07-2014 at 11:35 AM.
#1558
TIP #5
I think that was a VERY GOOD idea to put the different shock length markings on the shafts!!!! wow someones beautiful mind went to work on that part!!