Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
I searched through the entire thread and the only reference I could find was to someone going to try a B44.2/B44.3 slipper, but that was way back and there was no follow up. The newest entry talked about using the following diff fluids instead of a slipper, 15k 60k 5k.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Ty tessmann used a slipper in the Chitown setup sheet. Maybe Facebook him and ask how he did it.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (45)
I picked up a used d413 and ran it for the first time this weekend.
Question 1 What is a fix for the rear tie rods at the wheel breaking. Broke two so far and seems the be the weak part of the whole car.
Question 2 What are people using for pistons? I can't seem to find a machined normal piston for this car.
Question 3 Running the Avid chassis and Exotek center diff parts. The center diff seems to be a little long for the blocks and side stressing the bearings. Diff does not spin free like it should. New bearings only lasted a few runs before going bad. There is no free play in the diff when everything is tightened down. Not sure if this is a Avid chassis problem or a Exotek cap/gear problem. Anyone else have this problem?
Question 1 What is a fix for the rear tie rods at the wheel breaking. Broke two so far and seems the be the weak part of the whole car.
Question 2 What are people using for pistons? I can't seem to find a machined normal piston for this car.
Question 3 Running the Avid chassis and Exotek center diff parts. The center diff seems to be a little long for the blocks and side stressing the bearings. Diff does not spin free like it should. New bearings only lasted a few runs before going bad. There is no free play in the diff when everything is tightened down. Not sure if this is a Avid chassis problem or a Exotek cap/gear problem. Anyone else have this problem?
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I've been driving this car since it first came out and have built several of them:
1) never had any issues with the rear tie rods/ends, but someone else may have posted something on this thread somewhere.
2) RCShox makes machined pistons
3) not sure if diff parts or chassis are the problem... I run the schelle chassis. Try a stock center diff, to eliminate that from the equation... never had any issues with stock center diff in all the time I've been running this car
1) never had any issues with the rear tie rods/ends, but someone else may have posted something on this thread somewhere.
2) RCShox makes machined pistons
3) not sure if diff parts or chassis are the problem... I run the schelle chassis. Try a stock center diff, to eliminate that from the equation... never had any issues with stock center diff in all the time I've been running this car
Tech Champion
iTrader: (45)
I've been driving this car since it first came out and have built several of them:
1) never had any issues with the rear tie rods/ends, but someone else may have posted something on this thread somewhere.
2) RCShox makes machined pistons
3) not sure if diff parts or chassis are the problem... I run the schelle chassis. Try a stock center diff, to eliminate that from the equation... never had any issues with stock center diff in all the time I've been running this car
1) never had any issues with the rear tie rods/ends, but someone else may have posted something on this thread somewhere.
2) RCShox makes machined pistons
3) not sure if diff parts or chassis are the problem... I run the schelle chassis. Try a stock center diff, to eliminate that from the equation... never had any issues with stock center diff in all the time I've been running this car
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
I picked up a used d413 and ran it for the first time this weekend.
Question 1 What is a fix for the rear tie rods at the wheel breaking. Broke two so far and seems the be the weak part of the whole car.
Question 2 What are people using for pistons? I can't seem to find a machined normal piston for this car.
Question 3 Running the Avid chassis and Exotek center diff parts. The center diff seems to be a little long for the blocks and side stressing the bearings. Diff does not spin free like it should. New bearings only lasted a few runs before going bad. There is no free play in the diff when everything is tightened down. Not sure if this is a Avid chassis problem or a Exotek cap/gear problem. Anyone else have this problem?
Question 1 What is a fix for the rear tie rods at the wheel breaking. Broke two so far and seems the be the weak part of the whole car.
Question 2 What are people using for pistons? I can't seem to find a machined normal piston for this car.
Question 3 Running the Avid chassis and Exotek center diff parts. The center diff seems to be a little long for the blocks and side stressing the bearings. Diff does not spin free like it should. New bearings only lasted a few runs before going bad. There is no free play in the diff when everything is tightened down. Not sure if this is a Avid chassis problem or a Exotek cap/gear problem. Anyone else have this problem?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I have 2 d413 and the one with Lunsford turnbuckle does not break rear tie rod. Stock turnbuckle car seems to break from time to time..
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Wonder which will come first new d413 or D216
Tech Lord
iTrader: (173)
Tech Lord
iTrader: (173)
By chance, anyone have an extra rear top deck? I need the longer one that goes from the rear end to the center diff. Mine snapped when someone landed on me. Thanks
Team Tekin
iTrader: (18)
Certainly some new parts are in store, but have not heard of there being a new kit soon.
PM me your shipping info.
PM me your shipping info.
Was wondering if someone could tell me the length of the front a-arms inner hinge pin hole to outer hinge pin hole as well as the back a-arms inner hinge pin hole to outer hinge pin hole.
Thank you very much as the info will help me determine if the D413 front and rear a arms will be a good fit on an older vintage wheeler.
Thank you very much as the info will help me determine if the D413 front and rear a arms will be a good fit on an older vintage wheeler.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (45)
http://www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-...s_p_42355.html
If anyone looking 2mm screws for the arms and diff that use the lager 1.5mm allen size PN Racing makes them. These seem to live longer and not strip out so easy.
If anyone looking 2mm screws for the arms and diff that use the lager 1.5mm allen size PN Racing makes them. These seem to live longer and not strip out so easy.
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
A little work but you won't break another outside rear link end. Grab a new pair of cups, Scuff up the little divot on each side where it would break and clean with alcohol. Take carbon fiber plate and scrape the edge with a razor blade to make CF powder. Put some powder in the divot and add a drop of thin CA. I used aka glue. It doesn't take much. Let it dry (no accelerator) and file any lumps that may interfere with the hub. I'm 100% confident it works and have done a few other cars at the track for ppl.