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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

Old 08-26-2016, 08:20 AM
  #10756  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
Someone has to have tried to retrofit a slipper (maybe an Xray slipper).
I searched through the entire thread and the only reference I could find was to someone going to try a B44.2/B44.3 slipper, but that was way back and there was no follow up. The newest entry talked about using the following diff fluids instead of a slipper, 15k 60k 5k.
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Old 08-26-2016, 03:37 PM
  #10757  
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Ty tessmann used a slipper in the Chitown setup sheet. Maybe Facebook him and ask how he did it.
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Old 08-26-2016, 09:03 PM
  #10758  
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Originally Posted by nitro2be
Ty tessmann used a slipper in the Chitown setup sheet. Maybe Facebook him and ask how he did it.
They were prototype parts
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:03 AM
  #10759  
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I picked up a used d413 and ran it for the first time this weekend.
Question 1 What is a fix for the rear tie rods at the wheel breaking. Broke two so far and seems the be the weak part of the whole car.
Question 2 What are people using for pistons? I can't seem to find a machined normal piston for this car.
Question 3 Running the Avid chassis and Exotek center diff parts. The center diff seems to be a little long for the blocks and side stressing the bearings. Diff does not spin free like it should. New bearings only lasted a few runs before going bad. There is no free play in the diff when everything is tightened down. Not sure if this is a Avid chassis problem or a Exotek cap/gear problem. Anyone else have this problem?
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Old 08-29-2016, 12:23 PM
  #10760  
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I've been driving this car since it first came out and have built several of them:

1) never had any issues with the rear tie rods/ends, but someone else may have posted something on this thread somewhere.
2) RCShox makes machined pistons
3) not sure if diff parts or chassis are the problem... I run the schelle chassis. Try a stock center diff, to eliminate that from the equation... never had any issues with stock center diff in all the time I've been running this car
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Old 08-29-2016, 05:21 PM
  #10761  
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Originally Posted by Sofa King
I've been driving this car since it first came out and have built several of them:

1) never had any issues with the rear tie rods/ends, but someone else may have posted something on this thread somewhere.
2) RCShox makes machined pistons
3) not sure if diff parts or chassis are the problem... I run the schelle chassis. Try a stock center diff, to eliminate that from the equation... never had any issues with stock center diff in all the time I've been running this car
Thanks, I will try the stock gear to see if the issue is the same. Pretty sure its a case of too many after market parts together not meeting the factory tolerance. If I take the gasket out I have plenty of play. I am sure the diff would be empty before the first pack was done though.
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Old 08-29-2016, 07:37 PM
  #10762  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
I picked up a used d413 and ran it for the first time this weekend.
Question 1 What is a fix for the rear tie rods at the wheel breaking. Broke two so far and seems the be the weak part of the whole car.
Question 2 What are people using for pistons? I can't seem to find a machined normal piston for this car.
Question 3 Running the Avid chassis and Exotek center diff parts. The center diff seems to be a little long for the blocks and side stressing the bearings. Diff does not spin free like it should. New bearings only lasted a few runs before going bad. There is no free play in the diff when everything is tightened down. Not sure if this is a Avid chassis problem or a Exotek cap/gear problem. Anyone else have this problem?
I have had the same problem with the rear tire rods . Only thing I did was buy more. Of corse you can go Exotek and just get rid of the part. They use normal tie rods.
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:44 PM
  #10763  
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I have 2 d413 and the one with Lunsford turnbuckle does not break rear tie rod. Stock turnbuckle car seems to break from time to time..
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:28 PM
  #10764  
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Wonder which will come first new d413 or D216
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:40 AM
  #10765  
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Originally Posted by Kegman21
Wonder which will come first new d413 or D216
Are there rumors of a new product being released soon?
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:48 AM
  #10766  
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By chance, anyone have an extra rear top deck? I need the longer one that goes from the rear end to the center diff. Mine snapped when someone landed on me. Thanks
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:02 PM
  #10767  
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Originally Posted by nbkioo8
Are there rumors of a new product being released soon?
Certainly some new parts are in store, but have not heard of there being a new kit soon.

Originally Posted by nbkioo8
By chance, anyone have an extra rear top deck? I need the longer one that goes from the rear end to the center diff. Mine snapped when someone landed on me. Thanks
PM me your shipping info.
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Old 09-02-2016, 03:29 PM
  #10768  
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Was wondering if someone could tell me the length of the front a-arms inner hinge pin hole to outer hinge pin hole as well as the back a-arms inner hinge pin hole to outer hinge pin hole.

Thank you very much as the info will help me determine if the D413 front and rear a arms will be a good fit on an older vintage wheeler.
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Old 09-02-2016, 07:28 PM
  #10769  
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http://www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-...s_p_42355.html


If anyone looking 2mm screws for the arms and diff that use the lager 1.5mm allen size PN Racing makes them. These seem to live longer and not strip out so easy.
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:12 PM
  #10770  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
I picked up a used d413 and ran it for the first time this weekend.
Question 1 What is a fix for the rear tie rods at the wheel breaking. Broke two so far and seems the be the weak part of the whole car
Did this since the car came out and it works.
A little work but you won't break another outside rear link end. Grab a new pair of cups, Scuff up the little divot on each side where it would break and clean with alcohol. Take carbon fiber plate and scrape the edge with a razor blade to make CF powder. Put some powder in the divot and add a drop of thin CA. I used aka glue. It doesn't take much. Let it dry (no accelerator) and file any lumps that may interfere with the hub. I'm 100% confident it works and have done a few other cars at the track for ppl.
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