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Old 01-24-2016, 05:06 AM   #10426
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Originally Posted by AMorgan
Does anyone know the part number for the paper gaskets on the diff's? I ordered the Bullet number from earlier in this thread but they 0.5 to 1mm too large and don't fit. Thanks!
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HPI101221
I know this was a really old thread, but after trying these gaskets on my full rebuild yesterday I'm here to tell you that part # HBS101221 does NOT work on the D413 diffs. The gasket diameter of HBS101221 is a little too large.

It seems the cheapest way to get the proper diff gasket for the D413 is to buy the spur gear
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:17 PM   #10427
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I got mine off eBay.
Careful with the 2mm roll bar, as I don't think you can use the standard ball ends, the wire won't fit inside the ball.
Sure it fits. Also the 812/815/shock standoffs fit. Also the mp9 fits. It's a few mm longer though.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:24 PM   #10428
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Thank you sir.
Ive been looking for 1.8 and 2.0 roll bars but havent found any info yet.
Any tips where i can buy the correct steel online?
As stated before. Piano wire or among many brands, Yokomo rear fits. Just need to bend the ends a little.
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Old 01-25-2016, 05:01 AM   #10429
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I've cracked the steering crank CF part on my car twice now. It's cracking at the inner hole. I use the outer hole and started thinking if I used inner hole problem would be solved. What hole do you guys use and would inner hole cause faster throw? I'm just gonna make two new ones and have just one hole. I know if I stop clipping pipes and outside wall would help too.
I'm assuming you're using the aluminum exotek rack? The CF piece is the next weakest link on the steering system to break after replacing the plastic rack with aluminum. You can double up and run two CF plates on the bell crank, it should help some.
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Old 01-25-2016, 06:09 AM   #10430
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Is anybody else having issue stripping the hole in the diff housing where the turnbuckles connect? I am eating through those things constantly.
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Old 01-25-2016, 06:13 AM   #10431
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Is anybody else having issue stripping the hole in the diff housing where the turnbuckles connect? I am eating through those things constantly.
how many ball studs washers are you using? if you're using a lot you might need a longer ball stud.
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Old 01-26-2016, 10:50 AM   #10432
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Originally Posted by nv529 View Post
I'm assuming you're using the aluminum exotek rack? The CF piece is the next weakest link on the steering system to break after replacing the plastic rack with aluminum. You can double up and run two CF plates on the bell crank, it should help some.

good idea too.
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Old 01-26-2016, 12:37 PM   #10433
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Originally Posted by nitro2be View Post
I've cracked the steering crank CF part on my car twice now. It's cracking at the inner hole. I use the outer hole and started thinking if I used inner hole problem would be solved. What hole do you guys use and would inner hole cause faster throw? I'm just gonna make two new ones and have just one hole. I know if I stop clipping pipes and outside wall would help too.
Check your steering endpoints. If they are too high it'll put your entire steering linkage in a bind, which makes things very easy to break.
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Old 01-26-2016, 12:58 PM   #10434
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Check your steering endpoints. If they are too high it'll put your entire steering linkage in a bind, which makes things very easy to break.
end points are good, I always check before track day.its really is just me kissing outside wall on straight at full speed. I drift out and blink my eyes and whamm
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Old 01-26-2016, 04:14 PM   #10435
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Stupid question but is the wider swaybar for the front or rear ? I always thought they were the same front and rear but realized they are little different when I changed them out this weekend.
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Old 01-27-2016, 09:40 AM   #10436
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Stupid question but is the wider swaybar for the front or rear ? I always thought they were the same front and rear but realized they are little different when I changed them out this weekend.
There different ?
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Old 01-27-2016, 08:51 PM   #10437
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There different ?
Yes I am assuming that nobody ever realized it because they look really close but there is a small difference.
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:08 PM   #10438
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I am having a problem with the shock package on my D413. I currently have 2x1.6 mm pistons in the front and 2x1.7 mm pistons in the rear, with red front springs and gold rear springs, and TLR 40 oil in the front and TLR 32.5 oil in the rear. The car feels incredibly soft and it has very little pack, as it bottoms out everywhere on the low-medium grip outdoor clay track I race on. The pistons are the drilled blank ones that come with the kit. Does anyone have an idea what could be wrong with my shocks/suspension?
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Old 01-27-2016, 11:47 PM   #10439
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I am having a problem with the shock package on my D413. I currently have 2x1.6 mm pistons in the front and 2x1.7 mm pistons in the rear, with red front springs and gold rear springs, and TLR 40 oil in the front and TLR 32.5 oil in the rear. The car feels incredibly soft and it has very little pack, as it bottoms out everywhere on the low-medium grip outdoor clay track I race on. The pistons are the drilled blank ones that come with the kit. Does anyone have an idea what could be wrong with my shocks/suspension?
I'm running 2x1.6 all around with 37.5/gold springs in the front and 32.5/yellow springs in the rear (kit springs). My car feels great off jumps and through bumps. The large hole pistons will def cause a pack issue in the rear, I'd go up to 35 oil or 2x1.6 pistons. I'm not familiar with HB springs but almost every setup I've seen calls for kit springs.
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Old 01-28-2016, 12:00 AM   #10440
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Ok thanks I'll try going up to 35 oil in the rear
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